76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

I need some guidance on removing and installing rivets without doing more bad than good. What kind of rivets do I use? What kind of rivet tool? I have a regular manual rivet gun and aluminum rivets. The regular rivets don't look like they will be watertight. Did the factory use a sealant along with the rivets or are they just watertight on their own? I have to do this below the waterline. Any info is appreciated.
 

johnnyClack

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 4, 2012
Messages
45
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

There are various types of rivets, one of the most popular marine type is a "blind rivet"

While I have used a wide selection of rivets in my storied career I still go/rely on two different sources for info:

(1) Google to be clear on which type rivet will fit my particular application need
(2) "Youtube" DIY (do it yourself) how to remove & install marine rivets.

I refer to this site often to see if anyone has come with an easier or quicker way than my method. I will say I have been impressed more than once with this help site

sturdavj :)
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

I need some guidance on removing and installing rivets without doing more bad than good. What kind of rivets do I use? What kind of rivet tool? I have a regular manual rivet gun and aluminum rivets. The regular rivets don't look like they will be watertight. Did the factory use a sealant along with the rivets or are they just watertight on their own? I have to do this below the waterline. Any info is appreciated.

Before rivets can be recommended what are you riveting? There are a lot of rivets under the water line and the type rivet to use depends on which ones you're talking about.
 

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

The outer skin of the transom and the transom knee brace are where I am looking to rivet. Also if I discover any leaks on the bottom of the hull. I'm debating if I should use rivets and a sealant on the new water side outer aluminum skin of the transom or if I should try to mig weld it.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

Welding might work for the outer edge of the new skin as long as you weld inside and out side both unless you plan on butt welding the edge of the new to the old. I don't think you need any rivets. You left the lower channel and the braces are secured to the transom using screws and nuts.

If you decide to rivet the new skin don't use pop or any kind of squeeze rivet. Used what SC used - round head solid rivets like these. http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/solid-rivets/small-solid-rivets/round-head-solid-rivets.html
 
Last edited:

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

what kind of screws and nuts? I hear stainless steel will corrode the aluminum.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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49,038
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

The originals are stainless so I don't see any problem.
 

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

I'm in the market for an outboard for this pig. It came with a 1977 rude 70hp. Running condition unknown. I think the plate on the boat says max hp 125. It's a little corroded. I might try to get the 70hp running but it looks a little shabby. My question is: What is the difference between using a short shaft and long shaft motor? Will either type work on this boat? I am building the transom the exact same height as the old one. I believe it is 21" from the lowest outer point of the hull to the top aluminum cap on the wood transom. How do I measure motors to tell the difference between short and long shaft? What are the pros and cons of each type? How fast will this boat go with a 70hp motor? I want to go as fast as possible.
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

Here ya go...

Shaft-Length.gif


By the way...

I want to go as fast as possible.

That 70 won't do it for ya.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

Look for a V4 motor for that boat.
 

lmuss53

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,227
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

My old SC 17 foot Superfisherman with a Merc 90 was a 40 mph+ boat, the 17 foot Sea Nymph I'm working on is a 30 MPH+ boat with the OMC 70.
 

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

I welded on the new transom skin last night. It went better than I expected. One side of the knee brace has ripped through the rivets on the bottom of the boat. Should I just tack weld it back? Today I will install 2 pieces of painted 3/4 inch exterior grade plywood and reconnect the transom. What kind of paint should I use besides epoxy? I know that epoxy is best but I don't know where i can get it locally. I'm not looking for the transom to last longer than the original setup. I don't need to glue the plywood to the transom skin right? Can I use exterior grade construction adhesive to glue the two sheets of ply together?
 

dsujen

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
252
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

My bilge drain is rotten It looks like it has a rubber gasket of some sort on the inside. I was going to just cut it out and weld an aluminum pipe to the transom skin. The original hole is about 2 inches off of the lowest point of the boat and to the left of the knee. Water that gets in the boat will never completely drain out where it is now. I was thinking about relocating the hole to directly behind the knee brace, which will allow the water to drain out completely.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,065
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

Yes ...... since you have an aluminum welder...... weld up the knee brace to the bottom of the hull.

Yes you can use construction adhesive or gorilla glu for the plywood. The plywood should be then coated in a layer of fiberglass and sealed on ALL edges.

The transom wood is held in place by the lower strip and all the other bolts. No glue required there.

Do you have gluvit? It would be a great idea to gluvit the seams and rivets prior to installing the transom wood.

Would like to see a picture of the new aluminum.

Make the transom a "short" shaft which is the 20" vertical measurement.

EZ is right the V-4 is the best motor........ for size and weight
 

bash11

Cadet
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
20
Re: 76 18' starcraft missing parts of aluminum transom outer skin

I have been reading this thread and I am curious about why the aluminum corroded so much. Was this boat in salt water? What other factors cause aluminum to be destroyed like this?
 
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