77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

[basetrimmer]

Thanks for your help.

My 200 has run GREAT this year have run maybe 35 gal. of fuel this year already mostly trolling at lowst idle. And some using my small trolling motor.

Then I took my wife for a nice eve. on the lake, im sure you see where this is going,

After cruizin along bout half an hour we stoped to and fish then the boat wouldnt start. It was late on a mon. eve. but we got a tow in. The man charged our battery and we headed out. Just before we reached our dock it stoped running again. I used the trolling motor (weak but running about half power) to dock. since it wuoldnt engage the starter, just spin the bendix,as before. the next morning I put in a hot bat. the starter engaged fine,spin but no start . I thought maybe low on fuel so I put in gas but nada. so starting fluid, nada.
are the stater and the "possible " no fire be a related issue or can this motor be having a rotten day?

I will go pull a plug to teat for fire but no hit on ethyer i'm not optimistic.

Thank you for any insite other than keep the wife out of the boat!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

1977 200hp Evinrude.... The stator under the flywheel is a two fold component. A series of small coils is to provide voltage to charge the battery..... two larger black coils at the rear of the stator provide approximately 300v to the powerpack capacitor, needed to energize the ignition.

The engine must crank over at least 300 rpm in order for a good stator to provide the above voltage...... (slow cranking engine = no ignition).

Take a good close look at that stator. If it's cracked and/or leaking a substance down on the timer base and powerhead area, replace the stator.

Do you have a tachometer, and if so, has it been working? The tachometer operates off of the engines charging system. The rectifier on that engine is the small three wire type...... if it has blown, that would knock out the engines charging system and also cause the tachometer to fail. The rectifier can be checked as follows.

(Small Rectifier Description & Location)
(J. Reeves)

On most 2,3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.

The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high. The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:

One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.

Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue

********************
(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

Insight? If you need to charge a battery in order to use the boat, a problem exists that necessitates not using the boat until it is corrected.

 

[basetrimmer]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

thanks joe,

I removed the stator and it looks fine,
but I know about that.

would a stator failing cause damage to the rectifier?

which componant would cause a full cranking but no fire?(it turns over fine but wont start)
should I buy the rect. also?

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

you need a DVA adapter to use with your multi meter, so you can test your stator, sounds like a failing stator to me, if your battery is fully charged and spinning the motor over 300 RPMs it is likely. CDI electronics have some great trouble shooting guides.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

Before putting out any $$$$. Remove the black/yellow wire that leads from the engine wiring harness to the powerpack. Connect a volt meter, set to its lowest voltage reading, between that black/yellow wire and ground.... turn the key to the ON position. If there's the slightest voltage reading when the key is turned to that ON position, replace the ignition switch.

Note that any voltage, even a microvolt applied to that black/yellow wire, will destroy the powerpack.

Test the rectifier as I mentioned above. If it's faulty, replace it.

Normally a failed stator would not damage the rectifier BUT a failed rectifier would cause power to back up within a stator that would result in overheating the stator, hence the oozing of the substance mentioned.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

great advice there Joe.

 

[basetrimmer]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

thanks again 4 the help.
did I understand that with a hot battery, turning over at the right rpm, I will still not start if the stator isnt producing enough charge?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 77 evin 200 no charge then no start!

First..... Remove spark plugs, recheck spark to make sure that the spark still is non existent. Now, disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine and crank the engine by using a small jumper wire from the large battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that energizes the solenoid (not the 3/8" nut that has the black ground wire attached).

If you now have proper spark, either the ignition switch is faulty OR the black/yellow wire is shorted somewhere in the wiring harness leading to the instrument/control panal.

Still no spark? Check the stator as follows.

If the stator is faulty, you understand correctly, BUT, from what I gather in your previous posts, there is no cracking of the stator and there is also no evidence of anything leaking, seeping, dripping from the stator down on the timer base and powerhead area which usually indicates that the stator has not failed.

However, check the stator wiring with an ohm meter to see if the resistance readings are as they should be.

Unfortunately I don't have the book on your engine with those readings so you'll need to obtain them from your service manual or hopefully someone will jump in here with the readings. What is needed are the ohm readings between the Brown and Brown/Yellow wires (Powerpack related)...... and between the two Yellow wires (Battery charging related).