78 Century 4000 gut and rebuild

[2boatsinMI]

pb'd and clamped fillets are in one layer of 1708

 

[2boatsinMI]

2nd layer of 1708 and tabs Stringers!!

 

[mickyryan]

this looks awesome love the boat too ,

 

[2boatsinMI]

Thanks Micky, just been chipping away at it

 

[2boatsinMI]

Got a question for anyone who cares to chime in. Appears the foreward deck/ cuddy roof core is saturated. I'm going to recore it after I get some structure back into the hull, just wondering if it would be preferable to cut out the section where the plywood is or cut the cap just aft of the windshield and flip the entire piece.Either way it's about 8' ? 8' and probably heavy as heck.

 

[Vintage Rider]

It appears that the outside 3/4 ply on the transom is two pieces as well as being taller than the inner piece. Is that correct and is there a particular reason you did it that way? It also looks like the pieces you cut don't quite cover the center transom area. Is that the case and if so, why? I'm not meaning to sound critical, I just want to gather all the first-hand knowedge and insight I can before doing mine. Good job and thanks for the pictures.

 

[2boatsinMI]

The 2 pieces above the transom are backers for the upper swim ladder . They fit onto a curved portion of the skin so they couldn't be one piece.Not sure what you mean by the transom center area, the transom measures the same side to side and top to bottom as the original.

 

[Vintage Rider]

Perhaps my ignorance is the cause of the confusion. It's my understanding that a transom runs across the back of a boat from side to side. Since our boats have that slight recess in the center, we have a larger center section and two small sections on each side. Both of those sections on mine have small swim platforms attached. I'm labeling what you have already completed the center section of the transom thinking you'll be doing the two side sections later which will complete the transom from one side to the other. Am I using the wrong labels?

 

[2boatsinMI]

The transom is the center section. Some boats have transoms that run all the way from one side to the other, some do not.That center piece is doubled 3/4 ply, what you are calling the outboard sections are merely backers for the swim platform which on my boat is full length. Those pieces I chose not to replace because they are not rotted, don't tie into any other piece and as far as I can tell the only reason they are there is to provide support for the platform thru bolts.

 

[Vintage Rider]

Thanks for the clairifaction.Hopefully, I'll luck out and not have to replace them either.

 

[pegan81]

I am doing a similar job to my 1978 Silverline
Do you have any pictures of how you tied in the motor mounts?

 

[2boatsinMI]

I haven't gotten to that point yet and even if I had motor mounts are pretty specific to your drivetrain so I doubt that I'll be able to help you.

 

[pegan81]

I am just trying to find out if the motor mounts are tied in to the transom when I tore into my boat the owner before had been there and their is a gap between the motor mount stringers and the transom of about 2" and I don't think it should be that way when it goes back together.

Looks like you are doing a great job with this one. I am just getting started with mine and have the tear out about half done.

 

[2boatsinMI]

Since you're saying "mounts" I assume you have either a v6 or v8 engine.If you search the threads for motor mounts you're likely to find a similar drivetrain setup which may show you a picture of what yours are supposed to look like.Typically for the v motors the mounts are tied into either the stringers or the transom. You also could start your own thread and one or more of the more experienced builders would give you advice.Good luck on your rebuild

 

[2boatsinMI]

Ok, I see you already have a thread going. I would definitely tie the mounts into the transom when you rebuild, even if they weren't originally I don't see how it could hurt and I think it will be stronger that way.

 

[2boatsinMI]

Stringers are bedded, filleted and the first layer of tabbing is in. A few observations for newbies like myself,1708 takes a lot of resin to wet out properly.Any attempts at scrimping on resin is false economy as it will result in resin starved layups which will have to be ground out. Also wetting out the cloth on a board prior to placement helps in getting the mat properly saturated.

 

[kcassells]

You could save on glass and resin if you make the glass up the walls of the stringer and tabbing 1 pc. done at the same time and better yet wet on wet. Meaning have the second glass ready to overlap the first. Just my opinion. Also are you wetting out the stringers completely prior to bedding them? They look dry. Sides, tops and bottoms to seal all voids.

 

[kcassells]

On the same note here's a by the way...........
Since the stringers are bedded you should wet them out with resin, soak it and let it dry. Since the bottom of the stringers were set in pb, hopefully not directly on the hull which can cause "Hard" spots then you'll be okiedokie. The reason to wet out the ply prior on ALL sides is to seal the voids/craters/gaps in the ply {can also add PB to large voides and sand} but primarily to seal the wood. Once accomplished then you also will not use as much resin when you go and do your glassing cause the wood won't suck it up and starve your glass.. Wet on wet is cool but alot of the time schedules don't permit.
I hope this makes sense...let us know cause the build is GGGGGreatttt!
KC

 

[2boatsinMI]

I definitely appreciate any constructive criticism and feedback KC. I just wetted out the stringers today.After they dried I started on the second layer of tabbing running 6" onto the hull and up the stringers.On an interesting side note my daughter who just graduated from U of M with a degree in Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering told me that a stringer that is tied into the deck is no longer a stringer but is a girder.

 

[kcassells]

Girder, girdle, tomatoe, tommotto... Cool to always learn new things. No criticism just info. So much good stuff here to make your build the best it can be! Like your daughter.
Bet you'll will enjoy doing the bigger sheets of glass in 1 pc. that also incorporates tabbing. Makes things go faster too. Good build and keep them pics coming. You can cut and fold them also into the corners to make that tabbing as 1 pc. also for any vertical areas. Hope I helped, just returning what was shown to me.
KC