'78 Sabre Tri hull transom/deck replacement with pics

[chrismarion]

Today pushed my button after the trim and tilt on my Force just stopped. This means now I am going to rebuild this slug my way. So today I built a motor stand began removing what wasnt painstaking and got the motor ready to lift off. It got dark, so I couldnt take pictures. I want to be able to look back at my progress and you can too.

Anyhow, I have been looking for the last year at many a threads on rebuilds, materials and round about costs. To me I cant find another hull I would love other than this, so I will build it to please me. I have come up with some ideas and sketched em out, as you can see in my link below. I would like some opinions.

I would like to raise the front deck up flush with the top, instead of a tier deck. I will be using a smaller center console, as this is to big for my liking. In the back, I would like to make it a large deck too, flush. The sides I was wondering if I could replicate some of the newer flats boats. Where they have 8" wide rails to walk on and store rods under. I have a general idea on the structure portion of that, but not sure if its worth the work. Take a look at my pictures of what the slug looks like (year ago and yes that is green algae from a weeks worth of rain and florida heat that leaked under my tarp) and look at the two drawings of what I was contemplating.

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b207/JChrisMarion/My Boat/?albumview=slideshow

Here is a list of tools I have used so far on this project to remove everything down to the hull.
-Electric Drill/Screwdriver
-Various size prybars
-4 1/2" Grinder
-1/4" Trim Router
-Circular Saw
-4" and 4.5" Metal cutoff wheels
-4.5" Grinding wheel
-4.5" 60 Grit flap disc
-Lancelot 22 toot chain cutter

I highly recommend a good respirator with filters and a suit of some kind for the excessive dust. Do not use a cheap dust mask, as I am sure your health will not be good.

 

[osborn159]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

good to see another cent fl build happening, i liked these boats when i first saw them in the early 80s, didnt some have live/baitwells off the transom?
the beauty of a rebuild/refit is you have a blank canvas to start with, i like your plans, tho i dont know if i would bother with the side walk rails, do you think you would effectively be able to fight a fish from them? i know you said you where going w/ a smaller console, but they will bite into your interior walk room and a c/c is spacially challenged anyway, if your heart cant live w/o them go for it, try to think of the practicallity of what you want vs what will work, my perspective on fishin rigs is "simpler is better".
good luck, i think youll do just fine and if you have any more ??? just ask, plenty of help around here, on just about anything. D

ps keep in mind anything you add thats not there now adds weight and may effect the ride and handling.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Yes, if you look at the pictures the rear has two livewells and or cooler. Which ever you want it to be. I use one as a livewell and the other to toss keepers in, with ice. I primarily fish from the rear, as I have poling duties. My buddy is up front and he cant pole for his life, boat just turns in circles. I would downgrade my motor to something smaller, like a 90 with 20" shaft Mercury or Force. But I dont think the weight difference is that significant.

Minus the side rails, everything else look goods? I want to keep it simple, yet with a modern look. Without the modern price!

 

[osborn159]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

im no marine enginner i think you should be able to raise the transom to accomodate the longer shaft motor without to much effect.

the flush front and rear deck may allow items to go over the side easier, my neighbor has a 19' Rouge with the decks as you wish and will lower them 3" next year when we rebuild his, food for thought.

if your not afraid of getting dirty and spending a little money i think its more practicle to rebuild a hull you like than purchasing a new/er boat, to get what i would replace mine with would cost 25-40k, doesnt make sense to me for something that sits in the yard more than its wet, so ill refit mine to suit me as you are doing.

plan appears practicle to me, have at it, good luck, D

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Here we go. Day 1 I constructed an engine stand, derigged the outboard and removed from the transom. Thanks to my trusty helper. Four hours later I was done for the day since I got a late start.

As you can see in the photo, the transom had an aluminum plate mounted on with the engine. It looks as if 3M 5200 was used to seal the bolt holes, which ripped the gel coat off upon removal.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Day 2
After finishing my 12 hour shift I got home at 6am and began to work. I began removing all the wiring, steering and throttle cables, fuel line, bolt on extras and anything held down by a bolt/screw. Unscrewed the center console for the deck and removed, followed by a broken back. I got alot more stainless screws in my bin again now. It was then time to unscrew the in hull tank cover from the deck and dive in. As you can see after I pried and ripped the foam surrounding the tank it was suprisingly dry. However, it did not allow water to pass. I was praying this was the only foam, being a 1978.

But good thing for the trusty pvc pipe dain system!

Im sure the extra holes in the floor, under the console, helped with the water.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Not knowing how thick the wood was, I started at 1/2 inch and worked up to 1 inch. Thats when I said to myself, I just opened pandoras box. After reading many good build guides, you cant never be to cautious if you arent sure how close the hull is. Start somewhere you know is safe and work from there.

Starting digging out the completely saturated foam and mudd. And by mudd I mean rotted 1 inch plywood. I then learned I had a small version of the hoover dam under there too. You cant tell, but thats standing water in the foam. I know they did not put this crap in there in 1978! This stuff looks like spray foam. Boys and girls, heres what cheap foam will do.

While cutting back a large portion at 1 inch, I found screws holding all the wood together. Needless to say the blade isnt very sharp now. Isnt it pretty. Someone please tell me they did not do this in 1978, I just cant see this being done. Why would you use this much glass and one inch ply? Im thinking someone pulled a fast one and just tossed ply over the original floor and glassed it real thick on top.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

I also learned that there were multiple types of wood in this trifecta of problems. So far I have 1 inch plywood, 2x4, 2x6 and 2x8. No wonder this thing is so heavy, im sure the water didnt help either. It took me about one hour just to cut out that 3x2 peice of floor. Start with my side cutter, then hit it with the circular saw, and one more time with the side cutter. Why you might ask, because the top layer of fiberglass is 1/4 inch thick. The bottom layer is only 1/8 inch thick. The circular saw did not like those two combined with wet 1 inch plywood.

After continuing some more, I learned the first layer of glass is suspended by three frames. Which are amost gone from rot. It appears the frames are also my stringers. So this answered my question about raising the floor a few more inches. Would you recommend repeating this method and was this the factories doing?

 

[chrismarion]

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

Re: The beginning of my '78 Sabre Tri Hull

I cleaned this mess up as best as I could, sun going down and three garbage bags later of mudd wood and saturated foam we have this.

Well guys it appears I will have my hands full with getting the floor out. The front deck looks fairly simply, since its not affiliated with this garbage. Wish me luck tomorrow! And did I say I hate scraping out wet foam already? I'd rather grind right now. Unless something outrageous pops up, hopefully my next post will be minus an entire floor.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Rebuild/Refit

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Rebuild/Refit

I hope to get back to work tomorrow with some help from a buddy. However, if my wife doesnt go into labor today/tomorrow then we have to check into the wonderful hospital resort and she will be induced at 530am Saturday, followed by our second little girl. I told her I had plans to work on the boat this weekend and she is not helping =) ! I did however score from my father inlaw who gave me a 30ydx15in roll of 1.5oz CSM he had in a box. Sweet! He also showed me a 50gal drum full of poly resin, however it has been in that thing for years. I dont think it is any good by now.

I had some questions that I have been trying to find answers to, but they are for the rebuilding process. Stringers, as you can see from the pics there are no stringers left. Some fiberglass shell is left, but it seems either 3/4 or 1 inch ply was used. Since I cannot be certain should I go with 1 inch for the new stringers or go with 3/4?

The deck, I am going to use either 1/2 or 3/4 in ply. I have seen many use either one and the area of the lower deck will only be 6x7 ft, which will have plenty of support under it. Can I get away with 1/2 inch, or will that not be enough support? Its not a price issue, but weight. I do not want the boat to suffer the weight I am currently removing from the previous owner. Now I have to build a new area to store my in hull 16 gallon tank (plastic tempo). Can I seal off the rest of the hull under the deck and for the tank compartment have two drains built onto the rear with piping for drainage? ( Like OOPS! did on his project for the coolers.) Will I be able to completely seal the hull so no water from the deck drains/leaks into the hull, or do I have to have an opening near the bilge to allow moisture to escape?

Finally the tank fittings. I have read to completely seal the deck with only an access panel for the tank fittings and guage. I have also read not to seal the tank in case you have to remove from under the deck. I understand not sealing that area will allow water to leak, but so will an access panel. Also, I dont have an aluminum tank so I wont have a corrosion issue to deal with which would require pulling the tank. As long as I properly secure it I should not need to remove the tank. Right?

These are the only realy questions I am trying to figure out. I know they are further down the road, but I like to have a plan and stick with it. Right now I cant go any further on paper or in my head until I figure this part out.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Day 3

I got almost all of the deck out except two feet in the rear. I will get to work on that next week. For now I think I accomplished alot today for one person, as my buddy showed up late as usual. He worked the shop vac. My father inlaw provided me with two new circular blades. They are Black and Decker Pirahna Blades for ripping/cutting. I also saw he had Skill blades that were the same, either in 18 tooth or 24 tooth. All I can say is WOW! These things are awesome. Down fall is it will throw some serious dust, but it ate through 1 inch ply, glass and a 2x4 at the same time as if it were only a sheet of plywood. Definitely a must have.

Worlds best drainage system revealed! And I thought the two pipes at the center of the boat was bad.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

dreat progress for one guy in one day, think about 5/8 ply for the floor covered w/ csm underside before install, the top will b coated after.
that is the crazyest under floor drain system i think ive ever seen, why are the pipes mounted so hi under the deck??? if you cut them out place them low so they will move water, where they appear to be there would have to b 3-4 in of water sitting b4 it hits a drain tube.
keep working like this and you will b done b4 me.
good luck, D

ps hows momma doing with the pregnancy???? new fishin buddy yet????

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Thanks Osborn, I am trying to get everything gutted with a quickness. I am currently reading the forums in the delivery room. No new fishing buddy yet.

I dont know whats up with the drain system, but just as you point out its not very functional. The foam surrounding the larger pipes is beyond full of water, if you cant see it sitting there. I will definitely be making changes in that area. So far I am shocked that no one other than you has responded to this thread. Especially since I have never done this involving a boat. Would you happen to have an opinion on my earlier questions.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

plywood for stringers is ok, actually i think i prefer it over dimesional lumber, its strong and easy to work with comparably. make it the same width as your current channel or a little larger glue together with pl premium or resin, i used pl for ease of working, buy the big 28oz tubes and the bigger chaulk dispenser, it comes out cheaper.
as far as foaming in you tank i really dont have any experience w/ a built in tank, i remeber dad had a boat with one when i was younger, we never had to access it.
make a tank acces panel, keep the gap fairly tight and seal the gap with a good marine sealant after painting the deck, dont use 3m 5200 or you may never get it out, use a non permanent sealer 4200 or less, 4200 may even give you grief to remove.

 

[john porter]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

I am in the same progress stage as you except my boat is a 79 Phantom bass boat. Like the idea that plywood stringers will work but what is pl premium or should I say what does pl stand for?
John

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

You certainly got a mess on your hands. Someone before you did one bad job on that boat. Agree with above as far as stringers and deck goes, but you don't have to go to all that trouble with fiberglass the downside of your deck. A couple coats of resin will suffice. You will, most likely, have to replace the transom too. Try and get some marine or exterior grade plywood. Your doing a great job. Take your time and have fun with it. Glad to see another tri hull here. We have to try and keep up with those Starcraft fellas.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

PL Premium Construction Adhesive. It is in the caulking section of your local home/hardware store. It is used to put as the contact joint ("bed") between the hull and stringers, very strong bond with some flexability. Also use between stringers and deck if yours is made like mine. Some use it for other things too.

Oh yes I do indeed have to replace the transom. Even if it was ok i was still planning on doing it. As for the deck I will put the fuel tank under the deck with only an access port in case something goes wrong with the sending unit.

I was checking out SeaCast, but man that stuff is not cheap. I will stick with ply. The stringers are just over 1inch in width each, totaling three stringers. Those are some thick stringers. The transom is just under 2 inches. I have been reading thread after thread since I obviously have alot of time on my hands sitting in this room. Would it be worth it to use 1/2 inch ply and stack for stringers and transom, giving me more plys for strength. Or just go the typical route to reach the width I need? And the ply for the deck, what is the minimum thickness I can go with, to save on weight. Is 1/2 inch to thin or 5/8 inch ?

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

i used 1/2" ply on the stringers to achive desired thickness, 2 pieces of 3/4 for the transom.
you may be able to use 1/2in for the deck, id use 5/8 tho, think of all the excess weight your gutting, 2 decks and all the crap under it will lighten you up a bunch, heck im using 3/4 for the deck just for a little more strength, still gonna come out a bit heavier than when i got her, under my deck was a mess as well.
in boats constructed like ours the deck is the cross bracing for the stringers/hull
what was the original deck made with???

 

[john porter]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Ok I thought that was what PL was but wasnt sure. We just call it Liquid Nail here- put down on all rafters and stringers before we lay down the underlayment. I am a builder by trade so I am familiar with the product. Thanks for the information.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

John P, there is Liquid Nails and PL Construction Adhesive, cant say I have used Liquid Nails on something that will/could get wet.

Osborn, the manufacturers original floor was wood with a 1/8 inch layer of fiberglass on top painted. No idea what thickness as it is pretty much shot. I was thinking of continuing across the width of the hull at the fuel tank. Which would add two cross supports.

And forgot to add, our newest little girl arrived Saturday at 12:49, Ryleigh Paige Marion. We are excited, however our oldest daughter (18months) looks at her like "WTF, who is this!" Its funny. I am ready to leave this place, which will be at 1 pm Monday. And I can work on the boat in between helping the wife. I'm excited as I have two weeks off, which gives me time to get some good work done.