'78 Sabre Tri hull transom/deck replacement with pics

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Congratulations on the newborn. You must be very excited.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

congrats on your new baby girl, dont spend all your time on the boat, she'll need dad too!!!

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Well after a day of being out of the hospital for the weekend I just relaxed and enjoyed my house. Today I had lots of yard work to do and then the wife alowed me one hour to work on the boat, so I started cutting out the rear baitwells as fast as I could. I was then slapped in the face by a solid block of saturated foam. I knew it wasnt pretty when I began to cut the last wall before the transom and water began to literally pour out as I cut. Once off, I started ripping out the foam and a waterfall of water came out.

I still have foam right at the last portion of the center stringer, but after digging this garbage out I was done.

I have learned something so far. Wet foam is easier to remove than dry, atleast for me. The wet comes out in big chunks where the dry breaks apart.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

I decided to measure and do some rough drawings. The measurements are correct, but diagram not to scale. Please have a look and any input is welcome. As you can see I am going with walk rails and large front/rear casting platforms. The front platform I am building an anchor locker (8lb). However I have more space for something. I was contemplating installing a 20Gal Baitwell up front, but will that be to much weight in the front? The rear I am set on the two dry storage bins and an access plate to the bilge area. I am also going to add one more panel, which will house the two batteries. However I am trying to figure out the baitwell first. I know I dont want to put the batteries up front, to much cable to run. But I think the two batteries and a 20Gal Baitwell will be alot of weight in the rear alone (267lbs total). The fuel tank is in hull, which will be under the cooler(110lb full) and console (15Gal/90lb). Force 125 Outboard power (300lb).

I cant really think of any things I am missing, or would need to store. I plan on storing the pfd's either front or rear, depending on baitwell outcome. The waterproof box containing flairs, glow sticks, air horn, whistle, etc will go in the rear. Am I forgetting anything I will need to store? A insulated fish box may be a good idea huh, DUH! Have to think of placement for it too.

I plan on getting a poling platform to, but that will not affect rear deck layout. Only weight, about 40lb tops. I will gladly accept suggestions, ideas, experience or any comments.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Day 5
I cut out the remainder of the rear deck. All that is left is to grind down the sides and everything flush to leave only hull. Then I will cut off the transom skin, measure stringers one more time and cut them out.

I think both lower corners of the transom looking like this is a good indication of why it is rotting.

One more look at the fine 32 year old stringer job.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

A lot of hard work but it's good to see your still at it. I like your plans as well but not sure why you need such a large baitwell. Don't get me wrong, I've never used one, but the size and weight just seem to be so big. It's too bad you can't swap out your cooler idea and the baitwell locations. If you need that extra weight it would be better in the middle for sure. Just my 2 cents worth. Boat looks great. Any idea on colours and such?

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

For the moment I am kind of stuck. I was thinking white with black sides and the interior would be white with black splatter. I really like blue and teal also, but I cant seem to picture colors on my boat. I tried using MS Paint, but it doesnt turn out nice. Not sure how I am going to see what it could look like.

My old baitwell was about 10 gallons or so, one on each side. With saltwater live bait (not including shrimp) your supposed to have 2x the amount of water as bait. Greenbacks seem to die off quickly unless you have constant water supply and enough water. I too am thinking of just going with ten gallons, as I dont use a whole lot of live bait. Occasionally shrimp if needed. I am having a hard time finding a decent priced 10gal.

I have a resin question that I cant seem to find an answer to, anywhere. After checking prices I can get 5 gal layup from US Composites for $121, plus $30 shipping (whopping 3 hours away), $20 hazardous materials charge and 6.5% FL sales tax totaling $179. I went to my local boat dealer and they sell everything US Composites does, but a bit higher. He said that I can order straight from the building facility in Orlando, they will deliver it to the dealer for free and I dont pay the dealer markup (minicraft.com). The resin would be $144 for 5 gal, but it says its "General Purpose Resin, A thixotropic resin designed for fat wet-out of glass reinforcement and medium care." I am trying to compare it to the layup resin of US Composites, which is what OOPS! and others have been using. Would their resin be equil to the "general purpose" resin of US Composites? Which says not for anything structural. The other resin's they sell are for molds.

US composites have great prices, but shipping just puts it right up there with retail. And I live 3 hours from them.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

I wish I could be more helpful with the resin question but your talking polyester. I've only used epoxy which is so much easier to work with but about 4 times the price of polyester. The prices however, your talking about seem reasonable either way. But to get the stuff that you want, you may have to pay the extra. Or hop in your car and take a drive to get it. Either way you get what you want.

As far as the boat colours you want, why do you think that you can only have 2 colours? Blue, white and teal with a dab of black sound very nice. Or just the blue, teal or blue teal, white combo sound great too. Again, just my 3 cents worth. I know it's 2 cents but we are talking Canadian money.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Saber Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

US Composites cannot sell inside their county to the public, according to website, due to contract reasons. So I cant pick it up.

Here is my attempt at what I was thinking.
Black

Light Turqoise

And the Sabre logo, which will go on the sides. Not sure if in the rear color zone or upper white.

Which color looks like a better fit?

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

They all look good, but the black does stand out more. Are you going to add whichever side colour to the top as well, or are you staying all white?

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

As in the top white bar on the side? It will stay white. The inside will be a flat white with splatter of the accent color. My wife likes the black and the light turqoise. Funny, my two choices also. Tomorrow I should have updated pics after trying to get an all day work fest in. Hopefully it will only be a hull.

For those of you joining me in my fun, I picked up a Lancelot blade from Harbor Freight ($40). This thing is awesome and it tears up wood. It does not like alot of resin, as it will dull the chain. Thats what I use the 4.5in metal cutoff wheels for. It loves resin, but hates wood. I wish I would have gotten one at the beginning! I highly recommend for those hard areas you cant get a circular saw in.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

chris, i get my poly unwaxed resin from fiberglass florida, $102 for a 5 gal pail its 35 miles from me so i pick it up and only pay sales tax above that you may want to consider driving over one day and pick up 15-20 gal if you plan on coating every thing with resin/csm it could make the trip worth while not to pay the shipping, they are really helpful and have answered many ??s in person and by phone for me
fiberglassflorida.com if you want to look at their site, they are located in rockledge fl, kinda in an out of the way place near a bunch of scrapyards.

 

[fauxmeister]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Congrats on the baby! Looks like you are on your way. great job!

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Now they have the same thing, as in "general purpose" resin. Can you use this resin for what we are doing? Because US Composite website says not for structure.

If this is the same as the resin sold by minicraft, I might as well go with minicraft. They will bring it to me, otherwise I will spend atleast $40 driving to Rockledge and back. V8 Explorer sucks some gas.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

not sure if its the same stuff, i get it in a 5 gal pail labled polyester resin ,it is unwaxed, they sell the wax seperate, i have told them what im doing and this is what they recommanded, call them on Monday and see what they say or go with the other source, really makes no difference to me as i get nothing out of the deal, just trying to save you a little $$$$.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Oh I know, I am not meaning anything negative to you. Just weighing which is a better choice to go with, in a financial stand point.

 

[osborn159]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

no worries, i understand, your doing this much work and want to make the best decisions you can.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Tallcanadian, check out the pictures above of the colors. Is this what you were referring to? I really like these two, but not sure which is the one.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Either one is nice. I like how you have the cap as well. The black and white will definitely pop along with a nice pinstripe, while the turquoise is nice and different.

 

[chrismarion]

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

Re: '78 Sabre Tri Hull Transom/Deck Replacement

I am 60% done with grinding away where the deck was mated. I learned their are layers from the previous rebuild. From bottom to top it goes original resin/glass, original gel coat, 1/4in of resin, csm, gel coat. Correct me if I am wrong, but I didnt think fresh resin/glass would adhere to old gelcoat? Cause this amazed me as the 40 Grit flap disc is very nice to remove layers of the old.

I dont know how some of you guys to this part inside a nice clean shop. The boat and anything within 20 yards looks like it snowed. Each time I stop for the night I have to bust out the water hose and spray away.

Now since I am trying to prep as I go, should I just sand away a hair of the old resin to adhere the new stuff to? I am trying to gauge how much to sand off the top. I cannot see a color difference in the factory resin, like I can when sanding into the resin the previous owner applied. As in the top wax layer. I am affraid I will sand to deep into the hull.

Also the areas inside that I will not be hitting with resin/glass, do I need to sand off just the gelcoat or can you leave it in place before applying my top coat? I would like to have all the sanding of this nature done at one time.