79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

[HTech330]

Hello everyone. Here is my ski supreme that i have decided to restore this winter.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Welcome to iboats. what's the plan?

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Thank you. After using the boat last season I noticed that the back end of the stringers are rotted bad and the ski pole has a lot of play. (little dangerous)
I really love inboards so I'm excited to complete this resto knowing that it is gonna take some work.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

I spent last weekend with my father in law and we were able to get the engine removed.




Also removed the windscreen, just in case, really dont wanna have to deal with that if it were to break.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

More then 1 windshield has been busted off of the boat too, so be careful.

As an inboard, you may not need to pop the cap off to do most of the transom, deck & stringer work that's pending. So that's a big time & effort saver.

But you will want to fully support the hull before you start dismantling the deck & stringers.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

So after a long decision i decided that we are gonna seperate the boat. The cap is just in the way to do the stringers properly, and the floor. Im guessing that the foam in the front of the hull is also saturated with water. There are just so many rivets... they never end...
After a few hours of drilling rivets we are ready to seperate. (man was that a b**ch)

Thanks for the tip. we were able to get a 2x6 and a 4x6 in between the hull and the cap.
the garage we are working seems pretty stable so we rigged up a 2 cable come alongs and picked the cap straight off.
Up she goes...

This is gonna be the caps final resting place for some time. if needed we can still go up 2+ feet.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

I have been reading and i know there is lots of talk about what to use to bed the stringers. PL seems to be easier and should be fine since it will then be fiberglassed over correct? PB just seems like a lot more work for the same results...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

If you've read up on the differences between using PL & PB to bed the stringers, you know it's not a straight forward answer.

I prefer PB, but I used to steadfastly support PL for bedding stringers. Takes longer to cure, much much longer. You need to maintain warm temps thru the cure process, 72hrs, maybe much longer depending on several factors. More heat tends to cause more bubbling, which can be a problem to smooth over w/ a fillet & aren't as strong a bond as bubble free PL would be.

Poly resin (maybe epoxy too, IDK) may not adhere well to cured PL, cured PL is still fairly tough to sand either to provide a tooth for the poly resin or sanded smooth for filleting.

Don't take just my recommendation, continue to read resto threads as you work thru the demo stages. Then make a decision based on what fits your budget, needs & schedule.

FWIW: I think you'll be using all the ingrediants to make PB during the course of this build. So it isn't like you have to buy extra stuff to make the PB, just a bit more of each. You can shred your scraps of CSM & 1708 to make 1/4" chopped strand for filler, so you don't really need to buy any. Micro ballons are late in the build as nick & ding filler, but cab-os-sil is used to make PB for filling slightly larger spots then a ding/nick and in many other places in the build.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Not sure why you think PB is more work. It's actually less work. PL takes a minimum of 72 hours to cure, Very messy to work with, you have to clean it up very well cuz glass does NOT like to stick to it. Generally a PITA to work with. Just like JBC I used to like it but not any more. PB all the way!! These two links may be of interest to you...

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

(Click the pic to Download and View the PDF File)

View attachment MaterialsList.pdf

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Thank you for the info. I think i will just end up using PB, and balsa wood or some type of foam to get a 1/4 gap between the hull and stringer. I am also planning on using epoxy resin throughout my build.

PB seems to be the best to use since i will be using that to fillet anyway. Any preferance on stringer material i have been reading alot of people use marine plywood. i kinda just wanna use one piece of wood, what is the best white oak??

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Here again, Marine Plywood IS the best but...IMHO not needed. As explained in the links provided, Ext. Grade plywood is adequate and once encapsulated in resin will do the job for decades. Plywood is actually stronger than dimensional lumber due to the alternating layers/plies of wood. Ext. Plywood uses the same water resistant glue as the Marine Grade. It's your boat and you can use what you want, just want you to be aware of what's possible. White Oak is very heavy and expensive and you can use it and it will work but really NOT needed.. Epoxy, while providing a bit better adhesive qualities and water resistance, it is a lot more expensive and again my opinion, not worth the added expense, working times or hassle. It will almost double your build time due to extended cure times, very difficult to do vertical layups for the same reason and for some people causes major allergic reactions. Your boat is made from Polyester resin and poly will work just fine for your rebuild and is 1/2 the cost. It does Stink to high heaven but there's a price to pay for everything.:joyous:

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

ok ill have to really think about what materials im gonna use. Thanks for the advice. Im guessing that you use epoxy to adhere the pieces of plywood to get your thickness...?
So as the demo continues we have the cap off and pulled the carpet.View attachment 223235

The front end of the hull has quite a bit of foam that looks like a pain to remove. We were thinking of use a wood saw to cut huge hunks out to aid in the process.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Last weekend we were able to get alot done and really see whats going on below.


Took some measurments and the stringers are next to come out. We actually used a masonary blade to cut the floor and stringers out.
Worked really well!!




I guess the next item on the list is sanding (my leaset favorite to do).
Anyone have some info on the rear hull plug?? Both ends of the plug hole are cupped out??? This is a pic from the outside of the hull.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Here is the inside of the rear plug hole.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

The existing thru hull bilge drain tube will need to be removed. New ones are readily available in plastic (no tool install), brass or aluminum, & perhaps others....

iboats sells the drain tubes, get 1 for the thickness of your transom assembly + at least 1/4". Excess can be trimmed off, but you need at least an 1/8" on the inside & outside of the transom assembly to get the rolled lip to hold it in place.

You can buy the moeller flanging tool:

(iboats carries it too)

Or make Dale's DIY flanging tool:

That's all pretty far down the road, so file it away for later. For now remove the remaining tube (you likely won't be reusing it) and continue your demo.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Awesome thank you for the info! ill be removing that later this week as well as the rudder plate.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

We removed both pieces of plywood that were attached to the transom. The bottom piece that looks to have been 1/2 and the top piece looked slightly thinner at about 3/8. Does it matter if the top piece is also 1/2. I know that the transom has about a 4 inch curve. I was reading that people notched the plywood to get the wood to be more pliable and more capable of getting the bend.

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

After about a month or so we have finally finished the demo. We did not end up taking the prop shaft or drive log out since this is pretty easily accessable down the road. The strut and the fins were also not removed. We have also decided to use marine plywood throughout the build with epoxy resin. Now just need to order all the composites. I think im gonna use US Composites... Anyone have any experience with them?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

Just out of curiosity, what influenced your decision to go with Epoxy and Marine Ply?

 

[HTech330]

Re: 79 Ski Supreme Restoration Proj.

I decided the marine plywood because i will only have to buy marine plywood and nothing else. I guess just to have the same materials. Plus if water ever gets past the glass at least the wood will not rot from the inside. The epoxy i would like to use since i was reading it has better water resistance and bonding characteristics. Plus i can use the epoxy for gluing the sheets of marine plywood together for the stringers. I can also use the epoxy to make PB which i may need alot of. It seems epoxy is just better in everyway than poly (other then the price) Also poly resin will not stick to epoxy and i dont want this to be a problem with the marine plywood or if i run into somewhere else that epoxy may be present.