My sailboat has an 8 Horse Tohatsu with dealer installed remote controls. The engine has been tough starting all season. Saturday we went to go sailing. Opened throtlle 1/3, primed the fuel bulb and pulled choke all the way out. Engine wouldn't turn over electrically due to corroded/loose battery terminals. Hand started. Engine fired up on the second pull. Idled for about thirty seconds. About half way through the idle, I pushed the choke in. Ran for about five more seconds then it stalled and will not restart, elictrically or with hand pull.
I have checked in this order...
Plugs - tan, slightly worn, wet with gas - I replaced both.
Fuel - changed out fuel tank with a different tank with fresh gas in it. The old tank has been on the boat since Mid June - Sailors don't use too much of the expensive stuff.
Fuel Filter - clear, fuel flows throgh the filter. Primer bulb will quickly refill the filter after I drained it - I think this would eliminate fuel delivery issues from the tank.
Fuse - the fuse in the power head is not blown
I do see some bubbles in the exhaust while the negine is cranking and there apears to be a hint of faint sheen on the water from the unburned fuel.
Problems appear electrical
Cleaned all battery connections and motor cranks over
Checked all electrical connectiosn for wiring harness - replaced one questionable connection for the lanyard safety switch and the green lead on the ignition switch.
With a multimeter, the lanyard switch did not go to zero ohms with the lanyard engaged. Thoght this could be problem, but bypassing the switch with a jumper didn't help.
I read the ignition switch with the meter - in run, I do not get continuity between the red and blue wires, which I would expect based on the switch table on page 42 of the owners manual. I do get continuity between the red green and blue if I hold the switch in start.
I tried cranking over the engine with the upper plug removed and the electrode grounded to the starter frame - no spark was visible or heard with the engine cranking over- Cylinder was making compression as it cranked over.
So my question is this - should I try replaceing the start switch first or go straight for a new coil?
I have checked in this order...
Plugs - tan, slightly worn, wet with gas - I replaced both.
Fuel - changed out fuel tank with a different tank with fresh gas in it. The old tank has been on the boat since Mid June - Sailors don't use too much of the expensive stuff.
Fuel Filter - clear, fuel flows throgh the filter. Primer bulb will quickly refill the filter after I drained it - I think this would eliminate fuel delivery issues from the tank.
Fuse - the fuse in the power head is not blown
I do see some bubbles in the exhaust while the negine is cranking and there apears to be a hint of faint sheen on the water from the unburned fuel.
Problems appear electrical
Cleaned all battery connections and motor cranks over
Checked all electrical connectiosn for wiring harness - replaced one questionable connection for the lanyard safety switch and the green lead on the ignition switch.
With a multimeter, the lanyard switch did not go to zero ohms with the lanyard engaged. Thoght this could be problem, but bypassing the switch with a jumper didn't help.
I read the ignition switch with the meter - in run, I do not get continuity between the red and blue wires, which I would expect based on the switch table on page 42 of the owners manual. I do get continuity between the red green and blue if I hold the switch in start.
I tried cranking over the engine with the upper plug removed and the electrode grounded to the starter frame - no spark was visible or heard with the engine cranking over- Cylinder was making compression as it cranked over.
So my question is this - should I try replaceing the start switch first or go straight for a new coil?