81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Light cloth is not used very often in building boats unless you use epoxy, its a product that has a few applications, but overall it's of little value.

Cloth is light and the cost is high, plus it needs to be used with CSM or it will not bond well, this results in a heavy, expensive and relatively weak laminate when compared to 1700 or roving.

Cloth is the curse of the DIY repair crowd, it is sold in every repair kit and along side CSM, resin and other items that are needed. People end up using only cloth to do the repair and then it fails miserably due to the poor bond.

Thanks ondarvr, very helpful to know. I originally bought it (along with my CSM and 1708) because I read on oops!' thread that he used it, but I can't remember what for. At that time, I was also pricing different FG supply vendors and found Aero Marine. They sold 6 oz cloth and said it was they only FG they sell because it is so versatile and so popular. I bought into that idea at the time, but haven't seen one reference on iboats since then as far as anyone using it.

I used a little more today. Although it does go around corners very easily, it's kind of hard to work with since the threads string out so easily and get in the way of a smooth finish. I don't know whether to try to find uses for it since I have it, or just let it sit on the roll in my storage.

Thanks again.

Sea ya...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Happy With My Progress Today – At Last[/h]I go to bed the night before a day off and think through the list of all the things I’m going to get done the next day. Can't wait to hit it. However, I never get any where near getting my list done. I’m always disappointed in what I got done.

But today was different. I am happy with today’s progress.

I had some help from Q today (hadn’t gotten that since before he dislocated his elbow). We finished sweeping and acetone washing much of the hull in the salon area, then got out the PL Premium and laid down a large bead everywhere the port floorboard would touch. Laid the floorboard in place and screwed it down. Good fit. Looking good!

Then we decided to tackle the center hull section (where the water tank will go). This was a pretty large area so it was a major layup. We put down a layer of CSM and a layer of 1708. I took a little over a gallon of resin for this job. We laid it on the hull and all he way up the inside of the main stringers. We had planned this all along as the final layer of tabbing for these stringers. If you remember, I wanted the extra FG for two reasons: one was extra weight low in the hull and the other was because I’m building a tank.

BTW, the two A/C units really took the edge off the heat inside the boat. It was hot outside, but pleasant enough inside to work comfortably.

Sea ya…

 

[mrdjflores]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

pictures!!!!!! or it didn't happen!!!!!

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Good to hear you had great progress today...but I agree^^^^^^let's see them pics

Glad the A/C worked..I know you guys are roasting down your way....

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Sorry guys, but although I usually keep the camera in the car, I had it in a bag at home. So, no camera, no pics.

But I promise to make amends... Will get and post pics to prove I wasn't goofing off today. lol

Sea ya...

 

[Old Fish]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Sorry guys, but although I usually keep the camera in the car, I had it in a bag at home. So, no camera, no pics.

But I promise to make amends... Will get and post pics to prove I wasn't goofing off today. lol

Sea ya...

This sounds like a neat project and just so happens I have acquired a 1978 Sea Ray 24 Sudan Bridge with blown 351 ford and OMC drive. If you don't mind I may contact you from time to time about going this way to repower

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

This sounds like a neat project and just so happens I have acquired a 1978 Sea Ray 24 Sudan Bridge with blown 351 ford and OMC drive. If you don't mind I may contact you from time to time about going this way to repower

You bet! Good to share ideas. We exchanged some info some time back, and I believe we found our hulls to be very similar. Keep the dialog going.

Sea ya...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Outboard Shaft Length – 25” or 30”[/h]Several of you have suggested that I go with a 30” shaft length on my engines rather than 25” shafts. I understood the benefits they were telling me about but didn’t pay too close of attention because I was so far away from buying engines and because if I buy used engines, the availability of a pair of counter rotating Yamaha outboards (the brand I want) goes down to almost nothing.

But I’ve been giving it more thought lately. Calculating the position of the outboard bracket, the swim platform will be about 13” below the level of the cockpit deck. It’s another 18” up to the top of the gunwale over the transom. Since the height of the engine above the swim platform is about 25”, that puts the top of the engines at about 6” below the top of the back of the boat.

I tried to picture that in my mind. Not the best look. On the other hand, if I go with 30” shafts, the tops of the engines will be about the same as the top of the gunwales. This picture is much better. Plus, I get the engines up off the water by 5” and my swim platform is at a more pleasing and accessible height.

So, I’ve pretty much convinced myself, but how to do it? I was talking with a salon customer the other day, a marine design engineer all his life. He told me about the 5” extension kits you can get to convert 25” to 30”. I didn’t see many on ebay (none for Yamaha 175, 200, or 225s). Bay Manufacturing seems to be the only source for aftermarket extension kits. Found one distributor that gives pricing: $620.00 each (I need two). So kind of pricy unless I can find used ones once I get the engines.

This all leads to several questions:

• Has anyone had experience with using extenders?
• What is the best source for them?
• How much more do new 30” shaft engines cost than their 25” equivalent?

Hopefully, you guys can shed some light on the best way to go about this.

Sea ya…

 

[ben2go]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Here's the thing.The cavitation plate on the OBs must be 1 to 1.5 inches below the stern so the props will get clean water.On a deep V like yours,you may need to go a little deeper.I'm not OB expert but this is how I was shown how to do them.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Here's the thing.The cavitation plate on the OBs must be 1 to 1.5 inches below the stern so the props will get clean water.On a deep V like yours,you may need to go a little deeper.I'm not OB expert but this is how I was shown how to do them.

The bracket will be made based on the shaft length I will use so the prop is in the right place. I have to decide before I order the bracket. They ask for a bunch of transom measurements so the prop ends up as you indicated.

Sea ya...

 

[ben2go]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

The bracket will be made based on the shaft length I will use so the prop is in the right place. I have to decide before I order the bracket. They ask for a bunch of transom measurements so the prop ends up as you indicated.

Sea ya...

Sweet.You ahead of the game then.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Sweet.You ahead of the game then.

I'm trying! Still a lot I haven't figured out.

Sea ya...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Water Tank Support Progress[/h]Got some good time on the boat today. My goal was to get the water tank support tack PB?d in. First, had some rough and scuff, then vacuum, then acetone. And before I could put the water tank support in, I had to finish the layup we did last week on the center section of the hull. We had about 6? near the water tank bulkhead that needed another layer of CSM and 1708. So, I did that first.

I had planned to do them in one process, but the CSM wasn?t laying down easily and my estimate of resin was only about half what was needed. So I stopped after the CSM. After it tacked up, I went back with the 1708.

After the 1708 tacked, I was ready to put the water tank support in place. Earlier (while the A/C units were working on cooling the salon area), I had screwed the support board to the angled support rails. I didn?t resin them together so I could get them apart later. After the rails are PB?d in solid, I will remove the screws and take off the top board. That way, I can tab both sides of the rails to the hull, spreading the load of the water tank.

So, it?s in place. Here?s the side view, taken from the starboard floorboard. It?s probably hard to tell in the picture, but the angled rails will keep the forward (right in the picture) end of the tank a little higher than the aft end. However, you should be able to see the handy dandy, multi-purpose chip brushes which made good spacers to keep the wood rails off the hull.

Here?s the view from the forward end.

Last thing I did was to PB in the old companionway access hole. This is the picture I posted of the hole several weeks ago, and this hole is now filled (but needs work).

When I come back to the boat tomorrow, it should be solid and I can build up the PB around it gradually. Later, I?ll fill it to the level I want with FG.

Hoping for more progress resources tomorrow.

Sea ya?

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]By The Way – The A/C Units Are My Savior[/h]The two 5K A/C units I’m using are working great. They don’t get the salon area totally cool, but definitely cool it off to where it is easy to work without getting heat stroke.

These are two 5K units I bought at Brandsmart last year, around $70 each. One wasn’t enough, so I bought a second one. They didn’t seem to help much last year the way we had them set up. But this time, I left them outside (on the bridge) and ducted them into the salon.

If I get to the boat tomorrow (the plan), I’ll get some pictures. This might be a solution to all of you who are sweltering in this heat.

Sea ya…

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Question Regarding Water Tank Support[/h]Here is a picture of the water tank template sitting in the hull.

A few posts back, I showed a picture of the support for the tank. Notice the shape of the bottom of the tank. I’ve been wandering if I need to support the angled sides of the tank, or if the tank is made to support itself.

Any ideas?

Sea ya…

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Here's the thing.The cavitation plate on the OBs must be 1 to 1.5 inches below the stern so the props will get clean water.On a deep V like yours,you may need to go a little deeper.I'm not OB expert but this is how I was shown how to do them.

The AV plate needs to be about that distance above the the portion of the hull that is directly in front of it, and even higher as the motor is moved back.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Worked On The Bow[/h]I managed to get away from our salon late in the afternoon, unusual for a Tuesday. So I decided to work on the bow a bit. Way back, I posted about filling in the hole where I took out the anchor locker hatch. I had partially patched it but knew it wasn?t strong enough yet.

So, today, having filled the remaining area with a thin layer of creamy (non-structural) peanut butter, I put down a layer of CSM and 1708. However, I think I want another layer of each since I may tie in a bow pulpit (once I design it), and will want the strength.

While that was setting up, I pushed the tarp back a little further and drilled out a ton of holes that were left by removing the rub rail. Then, mixed some more creamy PB and filled those holes. I want to get the bow to a point where I can pull the tarp backward some to better cover the stern. I still have to do the same with the holes the rest of the way down the gunwales. At some point, I also plan to remove each screw that holds the cap on and rebed them with 5200. I?ll take these out one at a time.

What else did I do today? Oh yeah, I put the water tank in place to check fit and then marked where I need to make the holes in the stringer for the tank?s hoses.

After a few little chores, I was ready to call it quits for the day. But, I did take a picture of the A/C units that I promised a few posts back:

BTW, still hoping to get some input on the water tank support question I raised a few posts ago.

Sea ya?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Well here ya go:

[h=3]Boat Tanks
[/h]Fittings will be located per customer's specification with 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", 1 1/4", 1 1/2", 2", or 3" threaded inlets and outlets.
The material will be non-toxic FDA accepted high density polyethylene.
The markings will include RONCO and the stock number of the tank.


[h=3]Installation Instructions [/h]RONCO MARINE TANKS should always be stored out of direct sunlight and protected from freezing. Prior to installation, tanks should be at room temperature for a minimum of six (6) hours. The tank must be installed on a flat or contour matched surface, be clean and totally supported in all planes with 1/2" - 3/4" marine plywood or equivalent.

Install tubing and fittings so that there are no points of stress on the tank. use elbows to prevent partial bending or collapsing of the tubing when a change in direction is required.
Plastic tank connections are designed to seal dry. Compounds such as sealants, pipe dopes, greases, petroleum jellies, glues or adhesives are not to be used. Normally, hand tightening will provide adequate seal. On occasion, a slight tightening with a wrench may be required. To avoid damage to seal fittings, do not apply excessive force. Do not exceed 1/4 turn after hand tightening.
Do not install metal fittings in the plastic tank as the materials are not compatible.
Should you desire to test the potable water tank or water system for leaks, fill with water and check visually.
​

From:
Ronco-Plastics


Pick yourself up a nice salad shooter or dice-o-matic while you're there

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Well here ya go:

Boat Tanks


Fittings will be located per customer's specification with 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", 1 1/4", 1 1/2", 2", or 3" threaded inlets and outlets.
The material will be non-toxic FDA accepted high density polyethylene.
The markings will include RONCO and the stock number of the tank.


Installation Instructions

RONCO MARINE TANKS should always be stored out of direct sunlight and protected from freezing. Prior to installation, tanks should be at room temperature for a minimum of six (6) hours. The tank must be installed on a flat or contour matched surface, be clean and totally supported in all planes with 1/2" - 3/4" marine plywood or equivalent.

Install tubing and fittings so that there are no points of stress on the tank. use elbows to prevent partial bending or collapsing of the tubing when a change in direction is required.
Plastic tank connections are designed to seal dry. Compounds such as sealants, pipe dopes, greases, petroleum jellies, glues or adhesives are not to be used. Normally, hand tightening will provide adequate seal. On occasion, a slight tightening with a wrench may be required. To avoid damage to seal fittings, do not apply excessive force. Do not exceed 1/4 turn after hand tightening.
Do not install metal fittings in the plastic tank as the materials are not compatible.
Should you desire to test the potable water tank or water system for leaks, fill with water and check visually.
​

From:
Ronco-Plastics


Pick yourself up a nice salad shooter or dice-o-matic while you're there

They do seem to make a lot of stuff!

But looking at the sentence in bold, it seems to contradict itself. It says "flat OR contour matched surface" and it says support all planes. But flat doesn't support all planes.

Maybe these are their generic installation instructions that include box and contoured tanks.

Unfortunately, I don't know the brand of the tank as I bought it at Marine Connection Liquidators in Ft. Pierce, FL. It was likely surplus from a boat manufacturer, so I can't get their instructions.

Thanks for the input.

Sea ya.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

I think you are correct:

flat for square box tanks

contour for tapered, V'd or semi-V'd etc...

I don't know what types of plastics are used in different types of manufacturing, put I suspect that HD polyethylene heat pressed (to join 2 molded halves) requires similar support as HD poly tanks made other ways (extruded, or rotational/blow molded in 1pc, no seams). A quick read didn't find water tanks made of other plastics. HDPE is High Density PolyEthylene and those were the only 2 'types' listed. There may be others.............

Is there a label or stamping on the tank anywhere. That might help you track down what it's made of. Like the triangle arrow shape w/ a 2 3 or 4 inside it for sorting during recycling