'82 9.9 Carb questions

[David Foe]

(1) I've just replaced the rusted-out float bowl on my 1982 9.9 carb. In the process of cleaning, I seem to have lost the little spring that ensures that the float valve pin moves up with the float. I suspect that the carb will work without it. True?

(2) My long leg sail version of the 9.9 seems to have the large throated carb and the double holes on the choke plate that (I understand) are usually associated with the 15 hp carb. Was this normal on the sail versions? It looks like the original carb (complete with the cork float) but it seems possible because my Evinrude (after switching props from the high thrust low speed to high speed) really pushes my 16 ft Aluminum boat much faster than the 9.9 Honda that I tried on the same boat.

Thanks!

 

[Will Bark]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Needle and float may work for awhile but the needle will eventually stick closed; fuel pumps won't have enough pressure to open. Need to find it or order a replacement.

Have no idea about your second question except to say that you appear to have a 15hp carb which would kick the hp up between 9.9 and 15

 

[raczekp1]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

hi.
without this litlw spring enin will work as a woman,you will never knowwhat happens and will be in good mud

buy carb repair kit, and there will be this smal spring,
about holes in chocke plate, its only affect when you chicke engin.
it gives only small amount of air, but increse fuel suction from the carb paseges

 

[kbait]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Float valves worked for many years w/o that spring on the needle. Don't worry about it, but do pull the gas line and let the motor run out of fuel before any long-term inactivity. Which you should do anyway..

 

[dazk14]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Replace the clip. For a buck, you don't need to start experimenting.

PM your address and I'll send one out to - freebie.

Yes, That's a 15HP carb that came stock.

 

[David Foe]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Thanks everyone, it's a 50:50 split!

Dazk: Thanks! But before I trouble you, I will first drop by my local OMC repair shop and see if I can get one from them. They came through with a replacement float bowl so maybe ...

I have the engine reassembled so I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and see if I can make it make some noise. I'm preparing myself mentally for doing a ring job so replacing the spring when the carb comes back off will be a snap.

Thanks again.

 

[David Foe]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Uggg, that's disappointing, the thing still won't start.

recap:

(1) Low compression 60 and 90 psi. The 60 is due to a stuck ring which I had hoped to loosen-up by getting it to run. I'll re-ring it if I have to but I'd like to know that it will run as I'd rather not sink too much more $ without knowing the thing will work.

(2) Wouldn't start then I discovered that the carb bowl was rusted solid and leaking so I replaced it and cleaned the carb (losing the float spring in the process). I checked that carb cleaner flowed happily through even the small diameter hole (idle?) on the top of the throat. I really thought it would run even if very badly.

(3) After reassembly, I checked spark (with a spark checker) and it is good on both cylinders. Checked that the throttle roller was 3/8" past the mark on the cam plate and set the idle screw out at 1.5 turns. Squeezing the fuel line bulb pumps fuel to the carb (I removed the fuel line at the carb to check)

(4) Many pulls on the starter later, the engine was clearly dead so I injected fuel directly into the carb (in case the float valve was stuck closed) and still no joy.

All I can do is go back and replace the float spring -- I know I should do a full carb rebuild but everything looks good and clean and even if there is something screwed up, there is gas and air and spark and compression (in one cylinder at least) so it should have started ... shouldn't it?

Added later:

New, champion spark plugs QL77JC4 were installed with 0.03 gap.

Thanks, just writing this down helps!

David

 

[bktheking]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Put the spring in it and soak the carb overnight in carb cleaner, if it had rust in it chances are it isn't as clean as it should be. Remove welch plugs and lead shots for a full cleaning.

 

[kbait]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

You have good spark. Pull the plugs and pull the motor over a bunch of times to be sure you're not flooded. Put a little squirt of fuel mix into plug holes, replace plugs and try it. You should get it to run for a few seconds. If not, you indeed have very bad compression, plug wires crossed..

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

(3) After reassembly, I checked spark (with a spark checker) and it is good on both cylinders. Checked that the throttle roller was 3/8" past the mark on the cam plate and set the idle screw out at 1.5 turns. Squeezing the fuel line bulb pumps fuel to the carb (I removed the fuel line at the carb to check)

Does your manual state to place the throttle roller 3/8" past the mark. If so, I would suspect it would have been easier for all involved for OMC to design the throttle cam with its arrow offset by 3/8". This being said, since your motor limits the throttle position upon start up, perhaps you do not have the throttle butterfly open enough for start up. Not giving it enough gas, so to speak. Where did the 3/8" inch come from?

 

[David Foe]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Wah hoo! It starts! I gave it one last try after sitting overnight and it runs! Lots of blue smoke but the water pump is sending water to the tell tale -- yahoo.

Questions:
(1) Is there an adjustment for the red plastic interlock piece that prevents pulling the chord when the throttle is turned too high? Maybe I'll pull it off -- the darn thing seems to engage just around the start position and it almost caused me to pull my arm off!
(2) The idle mix is way off (it dies close to the start position) but I will work on that--which way from 1.5 turns would you go (in or out)?
(3) The max rpm seem a bit low -- is this limited in neutral?
(4) How much smoke should this thing be producing? The stuck ring no doubt is a problem but I can't recall how smoky it was.

Thanks, it is cool to get this thing making noise after so many years and so much abuse!

(3/8" past the mark is the position given by "the machinist" in his informal on line guide, it also makes sense since one can see that the throttle plate just begins to open at the mark)
David

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

I suspect this is what you are talking about:

--------------
"If you are having problems locating a start position on your twist grip throttle setting because of obliterated wording, or if you have a remote throttle, a method of locating the timing "START" position would be to advance the timing plate to where the carburetor arm roller just touches the timing plate cam, then advance it about 3/8" (9-10mm) more. This positions the timing & throttle at about the start position in the carburetor."

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Johnson_9.9_carb-fuel_pump.htm
---------------

I believe this is the method for finding the proper "start" position, not for setting the throttle roller position to where it just touches the cam. Maybe I mis-understood what you did here, but the throttle roller should be right at the arrow/mark on the cam when it just touches the cam. As you rotate it another 3/8", you will find the perfect place to start the motor. If you have set it where it just touches the cam 3/8" ahead of this mark, then you will most likely be stopped by the neutral stop, before you can open the throttle enough to get to this perfect start position. This will not only make starting you motor difficult but will also throw out your timing advance at all RPM ranges.

Maybe you did this correctly, I am just not sure from what you have said.

 

[bktheking]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Wah hoo! It starts! I gave it one last try after sitting overnight and it runs! Lots of blue smoke but the water pump is sending water to the tell tale -- yahoo.

Questions:
(1) Is there an adjustment for the red plastic interlock piece that prevents pulling the chord when the throttle is turned too high? Maybe I'll pull it off -- the darn thing seems to engage just around the start position and it almost caused me to pull my arm off!-
(2) The idle mix is way off (it dies close to the start position) but I will work on that--which way from 1.5 turns would you go (in or out)?
(3) The max rpm seem a bit low -- is this limited in neutral?
(4) How much smoke should this thing be producing? The stuck ring no doubt is a problem but I can't recall how smoky it was.

Thanks, it is cool to get this thing making noise after so many years and so much abuse!

(3/8" past the mark is the position given by "the machinist" in his informal on line guide, it also makes sense since one can see that the throttle plate just begins to open at the mark)
David

1- Is the spring still in tact? Should be located on the outside of the bar.
2-Seat it then turn out 1.5.
3-Yes
4-They do produce some smoke, especially in a barrel.

 

[David Foe]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Thanks, I'm really happy to see this thing working, and I appreciate the comments.

The printing on the handle is long gone so I followed the instructions in the passage that is quoted above (thanks for that by the way) for finding the start position. The way I read it, I'm supposed to advance the throttle roller 3/8" past the mark. The mark is (should be) located at the position where the roller just touches the cam (edited). It seems to me that 3/8" is close to where the stop is engaged by another bump (cam) on the timing plate but now that it is starting more easily maybe this isn't an issue anymore. The spring is in the right place (it holds the stop away until it is overpowered by the bump on the timing plate.

Things are looking up! Next I will change the gear oil and then I'll take it for a spin on the river (I'm optimistic but not a total fool, I'll definitely be bringing a good pair of oars!).

Thanks again.

David

 

[dazk14]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

"The mark is (should be) located at the position where the roller just touches the cam "

That's close...

The mark will bisect the roller as you suggested AND the throttle shaft will also just begin to rotate.

There can be a lot of slop from touching the roller to actually getting the throttle shaft to rotate. The starboard side of the carb throttle shaft with pin is where this is determined.

This will give you a little more neutral throttle opening and the correct link and sync. At full throttle the pin should be vertical...but we'll worry about that later.

The factory turns out to start for idle mixture is 1.0 turns out for a 9.9 and 7/8 out for 15's (yours) and that is intended to be a bit rich.

At the end of the day the mixture is simply where is runs best and and restarts easily without throttle after sitting a couple minutes.

The big fig newton is whether you can get that ring to free up.

 

[David Foe]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions--update

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions--update

Update:

The motor now runs reasonably well (idle needs work) and, best of all, both cylinders are now reading 90 psi! The stuck ring must have been shaken loose while in operation. A very nice result, thanks to all!

 

[garzilla]

Re: '82 9.9 Carb questions

Feels awesome doesn't it!!
Good for you bro.....enjoy.