Poncho Villa
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 39
I'm starting this post from my hijacking of Hole in Water Pump Housing. :redface: The pertinent information is thus:
I've got an '82 Chrysler 140 hp and can't get water to pump to the top out of the "tell-tale" screw hole on the top of the power unit. I bought the boat and it had sat about five years before I bought it so I don't really know how it ran before but "it ran well when it was parked". I backed the boat into the lake deep enough to reach the old water line on the transom and that put the water pump well below the water's surface.
The engine idles well and is responsive when I blip the throttle at the carbs but it just won't bring water to the top. I'm afraid to run it too long without seeing some water so I've only run it about 30 - 45 seconds by my best guess. I'll check the compression on the cylinders soon and see if that might give me a clue about the head gasket.
To which I received the reply from wickware and added my replies in red:
Poncho Villa, I should have asked you to post and answered separately to omit confusion w/o reading the entire post. This info got confusing when I realized we had switched motors/problems, most of all the info below might not apply to your problem if you h/n pulled the water pump and inspected it. [I'm posting it separately herewith. Sorry for the confusion!]
1. I followed the info on depth and that should be good IMO.
2. I c/n relate compression having anything to do with cooling water flow if it is running fine. [I asked a local boat mechanic about my water pump issue and after showing him my impeller and water pump housing, he said my head gasket or exhaust gasket must be blown keeping water from making all the way up the block. I agree with you that compression doesn't seem an issue since the engine runs fine. This evening I checked compression and it appears good: #1 @ 154 psi, #2 @ 157 psi, #3 @ 153 psi, #4 @ 154 psi. I'm not sure how this would affect water flow but I'm new at this.
]
3. Have you checked the screens good at the water inlets for restrictions? [When I removed the lower unit, I ran water from the water inlets & noted that it came up to the water pump. Likewise, I ran water backwards from the water pump (plastic tube in which the brass tube fits) and noted that it came out through the water inlets. It wasn't a very scientific method but it seemed to indicate no restrictions.]
4. The impeller to shaft has a good pin or key that sitting or trash d/n hurt related to spinning? [I verified that the Woodruff key was good and would turn the impeller. I showed to the boat mechanic the water pump housing and impeller and he indicated that though they weren't in very good condition, they were good enough that they should have pumped. I may order a new water pump kit & try that anyway.]
5. Have you tried Bob?s pretest with the ?? drill or thought about it at this point? [I'm actually very curious about this and believe that it would be an excellent test. However, I don't (yet) have an 1/2" drill. Also, I'm embarrassed to ask, how do you attach any kind of drill to that drive shaft? It seems that the drill wouldn't quite be big enough to fit on it. :redface:]
6. Have you tested it w/o the thermostat being curious? The water tube is connects fine? jow [I'll give it a shot without the thermostat just to see what happens. Anything's worth a shot! Also, I tried to make sure that the brass water tube connected to the plastic tube of the water pump correctly. It's actually very hard to locate as the lower and middle units come together but I watched them as closely as I could upon reassembly. The brass tube is very nearly stationary so I'm fairly confident that it won't move outside the path of the plastic tube.]
Many thanks for your input and I'll let you know what I find.
I've got an '82 Chrysler 140 hp and can't get water to pump to the top out of the "tell-tale" screw hole on the top of the power unit. I bought the boat and it had sat about five years before I bought it so I don't really know how it ran before but "it ran well when it was parked". I backed the boat into the lake deep enough to reach the old water line on the transom and that put the water pump well below the water's surface.
The engine idles well and is responsive when I blip the throttle at the carbs but it just won't bring water to the top. I'm afraid to run it too long without seeing some water so I've only run it about 30 - 45 seconds by my best guess. I'll check the compression on the cylinders soon and see if that might give me a clue about the head gasket.
To which I received the reply from wickware and added my replies in red:
Poncho Villa, I should have asked you to post and answered separately to omit confusion w/o reading the entire post. This info got confusing when I realized we had switched motors/problems, most of all the info below might not apply to your problem if you h/n pulled the water pump and inspected it. [I'm posting it separately herewith. Sorry for the confusion!]
1. I followed the info on depth and that should be good IMO.
2. I c/n relate compression having anything to do with cooling water flow if it is running fine. [I asked a local boat mechanic about my water pump issue and after showing him my impeller and water pump housing, he said my head gasket or exhaust gasket must be blown keeping water from making all the way up the block. I agree with you that compression doesn't seem an issue since the engine runs fine. This evening I checked compression and it appears good: #1 @ 154 psi, #2 @ 157 psi, #3 @ 153 psi, #4 @ 154 psi. I'm not sure how this would affect water flow but I'm new at this.
]3. Have you checked the screens good at the water inlets for restrictions? [When I removed the lower unit, I ran water from the water inlets & noted that it came up to the water pump. Likewise, I ran water backwards from the water pump (plastic tube in which the brass tube fits) and noted that it came out through the water inlets. It wasn't a very scientific method but it seemed to indicate no restrictions.]
4. The impeller to shaft has a good pin or key that sitting or trash d/n hurt related to spinning? [I verified that the Woodruff key was good and would turn the impeller. I showed to the boat mechanic the water pump housing and impeller and he indicated that though they weren't in very good condition, they were good enough that they should have pumped. I may order a new water pump kit & try that anyway.]
5. Have you tried Bob?s pretest with the ?? drill or thought about it at this point? [I'm actually very curious about this and believe that it would be an excellent test. However, I don't (yet) have an 1/2" drill. Also, I'm embarrassed to ask, how do you attach any kind of drill to that drive shaft? It seems that the drill wouldn't quite be big enough to fit on it. :redface:]
6. Have you tested it w/o the thermostat being curious? The water tube is connects fine? jow [I'll give it a shot without the thermostat just to see what happens. Anything's worth a shot! Also, I tried to make sure that the brass water tube connected to the plastic tube of the water pump correctly. It's actually very hard to locate as the lower and middle units come together but I watched them as closely as I could upon reassembly. The brass tube is very nearly stationary so I'm fairly confident that it won't move outside the path of the plastic tube.]
Many thanks for your input and I'll let you know what I find.
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