82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

[dkonrai]

bought the boat, trailer and a seahorse 9.9 for 400.00. boat and trailer need work.
question, anyone use rustoleum garage epoxy floor paint? it seems that it would work, but dont know if anyone has used this succesfully?
next, how do you get the transom wood out and the new piece back in? do i remove the rivets on the transom support? HELP!!!
dino

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

Welcome to the dry dock, dkonrai

Nice score...the engine runs good?

You will need to remove anything that even looks like it is holding what's left of the transom wood...

Drill out the rivets with a 3/16" drill bit, just enough to remove the heads, then punch them out with a punch...you will be replacing them with new ones later...that Knee brace looks like it might have to be replaced, re-welded, or just re-drilled...someone who knows a lot more than me will chime in soon...

The corner braces might need to come off, to allow re-installation of the new transom wood...then again, you might be able to slip the new transom wood up under the lip, if you remove the knee brace...you'll just have to re-rivet it back in place afterwards...

For the small amount that you are going to need, it might be best to seal up the new transom wood with marine-type epoxy and some paint over that for UV protection...but you can also get by for quite a few seasons with some painted or varnished wood...

Use stainless steel fasteners to bolt everything back together...get the correct sealed rivets, some Gluvit, some 5200, and you'll have this done in a couple of weekends...

Have Fun and Happy Boating!
GT1M

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

Welcome to the dry dock, dkonrai

Nice score...the engine runs good?

You will need to remove anything that even looks like it is holding what's left of the transom wood...

Drill out the rivets with a 3/16" drill bit, just enough to remove the heads, then punch them out with a punch...you will be replacing them with new ones later...that Knee brace looks like it might have to be replaced, re-welded, or just re-drilled...someone who knows a lot more than me will chime in soon...

The corner braces might need to come off, to allow re-installation of the new transom wood...then again, you might be able to slip the new transom wood up under the lip, if you remove the knee brace...you'll just have to re-rivet it back in place afterwards...

For the small amount that you are going to need, it might be best to seal up the new transom wood with marine-type epoxy and some paint over that for UV protection...but you can also get by for quite a few seasons with some painted or varnished wood...

Use stainless steel fasteners to bolt everything back together...get the correct sealed rivets, some Gluvit, some 5200, and you'll have this done in a couple of weekends...

Have Fun and Happy Boating!
GT1M

so the motor does run however it wont idle or stay running. im thinking fuel pump and dirty carb? will look further into the motor and will post on the jonnyrude forum. im not sure if its a 15 or a 10. power head is stamped 10, but dont know if the power head was replaced? older points motor. i have spark and compression, fuel is a bit iffy.

thanks for the advice on the dog leg. i figured if i could grind off the rivets, it would make the removal and installation a breeze. i dont know if it leaks as i bought this with out any bodies of water. knew it was going to be a project and dont mind taking a little elbow grease for some basic repairs. i saved about a grand so whatever i do to this boat and trailer is all money in the bank so to speak. here in norcal this boat would run 1500 to 2000 in decent condition, alot more if newer or garage kept.
thought it was a good deal for 400

dino

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

Welcome to the iboats dry dock. Nice looking tin. Yeah, when you address the knee brace failures:

make sure to check out the transom, and all of it's connections to the gunwales, transom caps & hull. That way you can address any other areas that look stressed or cracked while you're putting it back together. Most of the fasteners in this pix look to be non-stainless screws/bolts, I agree w/ GT, go stainless.

Once you get the demo done, you can fill the hull with enough water to get it above the water line, and look for leaking rivets. Mark w/ a grease pencil, and re-buck as necessary. There are videos on youtube, or google re-bucking rivets. Once you get the leakers addressed, clean & prep the aluminum for paint, hit all the seams & rivets w/ Gluvit. Once that dries, takes a couple days, re-fill & re-check for leaks. Drain, then re-clean & re-prep for paint. Paint w/ your choice of paint finishes. There are quite a few used over in the Starcraft owner's group forum. Read thru some of the tin resto's, lots of good info.

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

most of the demo is finally done. i need to remove the dog leg and then i can work on the new wood. i am going to try to make the transom one piece vs the five pieces that were done on the original install. i think a custom or additional backing plates will be installed on the dog leg. buddy may make one out of 1/4" plate.
as for the fasteners, yes they were all galvanized. it worked out better bc screws came out so easy! new fasteners will be stainless. and yes i will be ordering some gluvit!
dino

 

[dkonrai]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

yesterday i had a little time and worked on the johnson. would not stay running so i took off the flywheel, adjusted the points and rebuilt and cleaned the carb. motor ran pretty good. will update with a little video later today.
thanks
dino

 

[davidpsalt]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

Any updates on your transom rebuild? I picked up a 1970 Valco 16' and am planning on removing the transom and building it up to a 20" transom (currently a 15"). I have everything pulled apart and am working through the best way to remove, build up, and cap the new transom.

I may end up removing the knee brace, removing the corner caps, and building up the transom with two 3/4 AC plywood that will be epoxied together and sealed. Then fabricating a sheet of aluminum to cap over the top of the new transom, and overlap the existing transom by an inch or so - seal with a seam of 5200 - through bolt with stainless bolts from one side to the other. To do all this I will need to make a cut across the back of the transom to remove the current cap that runs across stye top of the transom.

Thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated!

Dave

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 82 valco tinny help with transom and floor paint

Dave start a thread on your valco, it's been over a year since dkronai posted to this inactive thread, as the big red banner across the bottom of the screen mentioned.

You might try using the PM system to reach DK, but you'll likely get many more replies & probably much sooner if you start a thread about yours rather then asking about yours in someone else's thread about theirs.........