'83 evinrude 50 won't start (again)

[marty53]

Hey guys- I had my motor running ok, previously unknown motor I got running after replacing both coils, power pack, main wire harness. I had the motor running yesterday and was trying to work on link and sync and it stalled out on me. Now I can't start it at all, just cranks and cranks. I have a fresh good gas mix, freshly charged battery, just rebuilt both carbs (again), primer bulb is hard, gas is going into carbs (pulled off line while pumping bulb), spark is good- tested with a spark tester and holding a plug with pliers its jumping at least 3/4" on both plugs. Also tried spraying 50:1 right into carbs as in attached video. So I have great spark, and fuel but no joy. Brownish gas/oil mix is spewing out of the prop area onto my engine stand. I read this indicates flooding but trust that I've tried almost all forms of trying to start this thing.

I'm kind of at a loss here. Any help would be amazing. Video of trying to start it included.

 

[marty53]

On a whim I just went back out to the garage, switched the spark plug wires to what I know to be incorrect (based on the wiring diagram) and it started right up, ran pretty decent. What in the world??!?!?!??!

 

[juno pierrat]

from the power pack to coils, two wires , orange with blue stripe, and orange wires, orange/blue on top

 

[marty53]

Yup. That's how it's wired. Then orange/blue top going to top cylinder. Did not start this way. Switched to orange/blue on top going to BOTTOM cylinder and it started right up. So it's like something threw my timing off 180 degrees. Is this even possible?

Only thing I could think of is sheared flywheel key but it doesn't seem like that would have thrown it exactly 180 off so it would start.

 

[flyingscott]

Pull the flywheel.

 

[jakedaawg]

What step of the synch and link were you In?

But yes, pull flywheel.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Put flywheel to 0 on pointer, is top cylinder at TDC? If not pull flywheel otherwise you have possibly swapped timing wires or a skewhiff powerpack

 

[marty53]

No Title

Pulled the flywheel off, and sure enough I have a sheared pin. It came out real easy, half was in the keyway and half in the flywheel slot and metal shavings all around. I cleaned everything up with air and a wire brush. Kind of concerned why it sheared in the first place.

jakedawg-- honestly I was just getting the carbs synced up and trying to get it to idle. I can't make heads or tails of the service manual link and sync procedure or make out anything in any of the pictures to tell what is going on, I just saw another thread on here today with a guy with the same motor as me had the same question. So if anyone has any tips on the link and sync I'll probably be posting another thread up here about that (after checking out the other guy's thread).

Bonsunsmate-powerpack is new I think ok. any idea how or why I sheared the flywheel key? pretty amazing the thing was running without the key in there, I guess that was just the torque on the flywheel nut but chance held it pretty close to 180 degrees off?

 

[jakedaawg]

When you re install you need a real flywheel key, not one from ace hardware...

Use parts cleaner to degrease the taper....

Then use lapping compund and the fly wheel to clean and true the taper...hopefully you did not screw the taper up with the wire brush! No sandpaper.

Then clean both again...

then reinstall key, flywheel, and TORQUE to spec...

Then get a manual and follow synch and link....

Then go boating...ask questions along the way if that was confusing.

 

[Bosunsmate]

It was probably a poor install the last time that caused it to shear, the only other thing that i can think of that can cause it is if you hit something submerged and the prop and the motor comes to a standstill, the flywheel will keep spinning (and break the weak flywheel key) due to its weight momentum.
Just make sure that everything looks level and in balance and you will be right once you get it torqued properly.
Yes it must of being near 180degrees off and so it would of just lacked the power due to being off a little bit timing wise 180deg, to stop the flywheel coming loose during your test.

 

[juno pierrat]

could have been a combination of loose flywheel and lean sneeze while attempting link-n-sync.

 

[marty53]

Thanks all for your help. The tapers I would.say look excellent no damage anywhere I can see so I think I'm ok. Poor install last time was probably the issue (done by me) and not torqued enough.

I have lapping compound from rebuilding my 3 wheeler head so I will do that on the flywheel tapers.

Juno-I think you may be right. On the idle.mix screws on the carb screwing OUT is richer? I've been playing with them 1 1/2 - 2 turns out but honestly I can't tell a difference I the idle when I'm adjusting them. Also, I was doing a lot of my tinkering without the airbox on, with the airbox on I found it MUCH more difficult to make it idle and I had to have the idle timing screw almost all the way in

Bosunsmate- I definitely didn't hit anything I never even had this motor in the water. I had taken the flywheel off a few weeks ago it was fine. It's definitely lean coughed a few time and damn if that sheered the key, ugh. Makes me not want to trust this motor at all.

 

[robstead]

I have the same motor but Johnson and the jets on those carbs are fixed, so no matter what you do they'll stay the same.

If you feel like it's running too rich make sure the carbs are synced up or else one cylinder will be goofed up, good luck

 

[Bosunsmate]

I have the same motor but Johnson and the jets on those carbs are fixed, so no matter what you do they'll stay the same.

My thoughts too. The fixed nature of them is great so it means it will be perfect everytime unless you have a blockage in them. Make sure everything is as it should be, with orifice caps on tight where needs be.

Anyhow see how it runs when your flywheel is back on it may just be good to go

 

[marty53]

Here is a video of it running after flywheel install:

Seems pretty good at idle, a little something on when I give it some throttle it seems like-- but overall its better than it has been so far.

 

[oldboat1]

Screw plugs need to be closed (non-adjustable jets). Run it in a barrel, not muffs, and don't rev it.

 

[marty53]

No Title

If any of you can help me set up my linkage that would be amazing. I'm currently looking at the service manual for my motor "E50BELCTA" (1983 Evinrude 50HP). According to the appendix I have a primary pickup location of "C" and primary adjustment note of "4". Here is the section in the factory manual (attached) that applies to this motor, can anyone help me make sense of this.

In the section titled "The 'C' Location" the first paragraph seems to only apply to location "C1" but states that adjustments are made to the "CENTER" of the mark. It also refers to using a piece of wire with an alligator clip attached to it to exaggerate movement of the carb shaft. But as I read this, only applies to C1 and C2 locations. Under the C4 location the poor quality picture looks NOTHING LIKE my motor and it says is: "Per note 2 in the appendix, loosen the center screw on the throttle lever and move the lever inward or outward to match the line on the cam".

Not helpful at all. I'm not sure what "throttle lever" means in this context and my cam has two lines, and one says "Start", and what is the 'center screw'. How can this manual be this bad? Please help

 

[marty53]

Screw plugs need to be closed (non-adjustable jets). Run it in a barrel, not muffs, and don't rev it.

Thanks for this. I should have realized these were fixed orifices since I rebuilt the thing.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Those books have never made any sense to me so i do it my way ( i think its similar to the Joe Reeves method which is in the sticky threads). Just check that at full throttle your butterflys a full open and that the timing is at the proper max advance level on the flywheel. And at idle, set it in the water so it just doesnt stall when the engines warm, do that using that screw which sets the furthest bck the timing can go, the further back the better that reduces rpm and strain on gearbox when shifting. The rest in my opinion takes care of it itself unless someone has totally messed with the fuel pick up rod.
Sounds like your engine has a little miss at times.
How do the plugs look? are they both the same combustion colour?

 

[Bosunsmate]

No Title

And read this, its very important on that motor http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...aq/228380-johnson-evinrude-adding-a-tell-tale
As you can see ive done it on mine, ive added the telltale directly under the lifting eye and its worked perfectly ever since, no hot spots in the top cylinder