Re: 84' 150 black max bogging out under load
Hey everybody thanks for your help!! There's no way I could possibly have the guts to tackle this project, although seeing how much I would have already spent on a mechanic at a shop makes me push on!!!!! O.K. so I've started to go through all the wiring from the top down and made an important discovery. There were two wires that were worn down and cut at the trigger assembly, not at the switch box but underneath the stator at the trigger. As I noticed when I throttle down the trigger wires move back and forth and from what I can tell is that the wires were secured to the block with little slack causing them to eventually cut at the trigger. So now I have two questions. 1. Can I just buy the wire assembly and not the trigger or is that one unit??? and 2. Is this the reason why I am not getting spark at plug #1, #3 and #6?? I followed the cut wires and they are all in the group of wires in the yellow sleeve going to the outer switch box. The wires that are cut on the trigger are voilet and white. Or should I just swallow that big lump in my throat that tastes like a new trigger, coils, and plug wires, and hopefully not new switchboxes for dessert????
Jump in, the water's fine...
I'd pull the flywheel, and the stator, (no need to unhook it, just unbolt it) and then pull the trigger out so you can work on it. There's the throttle link, and 6 or 7 wires all going to the switchboxes.
You need to use the proper flywheel puller, which goes into the large threads in the hub. Don't take the bolts out, and don't try to pull it with a jaw type puller. If you're really into declaring your poverty, you could pull 3 bolts out and use a steering wheel puller, but that's a poor second choice.
Once on the workbench, or kitchen table, you need to strip back and carefully clean about 1/2 inch of wire at the break. You have to fuss with them quite a bit, they'll be covered in black oxide that absolutely repulses solder. A small stainless wire brush is helpful. Or you can repeatedly fan out and lightly scrape the wires from different sides with a pocket knife. You need at least 50% shiny on each hair wire.
Slip a piece of adhesive lined shrink tubing, (fastenal 0710595 1/8 in, 0710598 3/16 in.) over one wire, twist up a neat splice with as small a bulge as you can, and solder it with good electronic solder. (63/37 eutectic resin core is best, 60/40 resin core is OK.) If you know someone into bone fide electronic repair, get a piece of solder there. A soldering gun will work, as will a small soldering pencil. Let it cool before you try to slide the heat shrink over it, or it'll stick where you don't want it. Heat shrink it in place. A little adhesive should ooze out each end of the tube. Do this with each broken wire.
When you put the trigger back in, pay close attention to lead dress of the harness. It should be the top bundle in the bunch that's tie-wrapped to the switchbox mounting plate. It needs to move freely with the trigger as the throttle moves, and it must not touch the flywheel. It ain't rocket science, just a bit of carefullness.
Put it all back together. It'll look just like mine, and likely run as well.
hope it helps
John
