85 Force 85hp starts, but will not stay running

[ToonTy]

I truly appreciate all of the suggestions and advice, thank you for taking the time to write.

I tested the stator and trigger, both show out fine accoriding to specs I found online. I put a new rectifier on the motor yesterday. I am not sure what you refer to as a regulator?

I pulled the fuel pump back apart and wanted to test the check valves for back pressure. I can blow air past the first two check valves. The first (which is the last check valve before fuel heads to the carbs) has no resistance to air blown backwards through it. The second (middle) valve has a little resistance, but air will flow backwards through that as well. The third (initial valve that fuel flows past into the pump) does stop airflow. Talked with the guy at the marine parts store/shop and he said that the valves I have are original and do not like the ethanol in fuel. The new ones are better for modern fuels.

I have soccer camp with my kids in the morning and then a wedding tomorrow night, so I hope that I can get the old valves out and new in on Sunday to test. If anyone has some tips on how to pull the two valves that are pressed in I would appreciate it. And/Or if you have advice on how to press the new ones in I would appreciate that as well.

 

[ToonTy]

On a side note...

Could it be possible that the stator is going bad and reads fine when checked with a multimeter for ohm range when cold, but once it starts to warm up it isn't providing the power to keep a good spark? Outboard ignition.com says that from yellow to blue on the stator it should be between 680 and 900 ohms.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Regulator and rectifier same animal.

I had 2 1988/85 hp Forces and in the 25 years of using ethanol not once did it hurt the valve.

Does the ball pump up and get hard?
After starting it should go soft, not collapse but soft.

As far as removing the pressed in valves Nope.
Find another pump and try that.

Test: start the motor and pull the hose from the pump to the carb and see if it's pumping.
What's the compression on #2??
You change the diaphragm?

 

[ToonTy]

I took off the fuel line to the carbs and fired up the motor. It ran and fuel was pumping freely, so I don't believe that the fuel pump is the issue. Though I now have new diaphragm, check valves, and seals/gaskets.

I tried to prime the fuel line while it was running by squeezing the bulb and it didn't change a thing. I also tried to squirt fuel/oil mixture into the carbs as it starts to die and that doesn't help either. It really seems like this is not a fuel problem.

I checked the resistance on the stator and everything is within spec according to outboardignition.com.
I checked the resistance on the trigger and everything is within spec according to outboardignition.com.

I switched coils around and it doesn't make any difference. I switched power packs around and it seemed to run worse and die quicker. Do you think I have a faulty power pack? Could it be that once the pack gets warm it is failing?

 

[ToonTy]

I was on the phone with a guy from Chicago about power packs and he suggested that I pull the white wires to see if I had an ignition issue. I had read that on another post in this forum, but thought it might be unlikely since it would start just not stay running. However, I gave it a shot because why not at this point. I'll be damned if the motor didn't stay running. Traced the problem back to the ignition switch. All of this trouble and the darn ignition switch was the issue.

Does the Sierra MP41000 work as a universal replacement with push to choke?

 

[jerryjerry05]

F5H078 is the factory part#

I've found aftermarket is not always the right stuff no matter what they say.

This site might sell it??

 

[ToonTy]

Took the pontoon out with the motor now running well in the driveway on muffs. It didn't want to idle in the water very well and would die when I tried to shift into gear. Eventually I got the motor where it would allow me to shift into gear, so i took it for a spin. During low to mid RPM (by sound I don't have a tach, yet) it ran rough, but at 3/4-WOT it seemed to run well.

I can't do a full carb, throttle, timing adjustment until I get the tach I ordered. Is there anything else that anyone can think of that would make it run rough at lower RPMs?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Running bad at low rpm's ??
Fuel pump diaphragm, water in the fuel, carbs not synced, air screw set wrong, sucking air, reeds, plugs, plug wires shorting out, trigger wires shorting?
Many more
Factory says set the air screws at 1 turn out and leave.
BUT!! some carbs just don't run right at that setting.
One of my customers his 84/5 85hp. needed the carbs set at almost 3 full turns out??

 

[ToonTy]

Thank you everyone for the help. I believe that all of my fuel and carburetor issues have actually been electrical.

I am going to start a new thread so to hopefully start fresh. Thank you again!