85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't start.

TampaBoater

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So, I did the repairs mentioned in the title, and now it just does a clicking sound when I turn the key. Checked the battery ground was was a little loose, but nothing. I had to remove a wire going to the gear cable assembly hooked up to a liitle rectangular box as pictured here.
20140315_202709.jpg
Dead center of the pic where the little screws are. The black wire up top is what I disconnected. Now i understand that there is a sensor that shuts off the engine when disengaging too slowly. Is this it? Is there some kind of adjustment to be made so the engine starts again? Here's another angle?
20140315_202729.jpg
Please help?.I was really hoping to enjoy the gorgeous day that will be tomorrow if not for this?
Note the engine was running perfectly prior to doing this.
Many thanks?.
Les
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

the black wire with the visable connector, where does that go?
clicking sound may be the slave solenoid. is it a soft click or a loud metal click from the starter area?
 
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TampaBoater

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

the black wire with the visable connector, where does that go?
clicking sound may be the slave solenoid. is it a soft click or a loud metal click from the starter area?

The wire joins the bigger wire harness seen the in the pic just below the connection. then goes to the solenoid. The clicking is more of a soft click. I thought starter too, but it's fine. That little black box, is there a certain angle that it should be, or that makes no difference?
 
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Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

ok, the slave needs a ground to operate, your hearing clicking so the relay is closing buy may not be making good contact. there are 2 large wires on top, short them together to see if starter operates.
 

NHGuy

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

That wire goes to your shift interrupt switch. It needs to work or you can't get the drive out of gear. I guess in a pinch you could turn off the motor, put it in neutral and restart. But you are better off with the interrupt doing it for you.
When your shift cable is free sliding and properly adjusted, shifting out of forward or reverse causes the interrupt to momentarily cut the ignition. Once the gears disengage the load comes off the "self locking" gears, neutral occurs, and the interrupt switch goes back to the run position in the vee, that restores the ignition.
If the little white wheel is in the deepest part of the vee the switch isn't cutting spark.
So maybe you reassembled it wrong or lost the shift adjustment when you did the gaskets.
 

NHGuy

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

You ought to read up and go through the shift cable adjustment if it worked before the gaskets were done.
There are good instructions at the top of the forum in the stickies. And there's a link to a nice video on how to do it too.
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

except it has nothing to do with starting the motor
 

TampaBoater

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

So I bridged the solenoid and the starter engages but with a ratcheting sound, still the motor does not crank…I do believe the solenoid is faultu though..
 

airdvr1227

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

Not to be obvious but the battery is charged?
 

TampaBoater

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

Not to be obvious but the battery is charged?

Yes battery is good. I went and bought a new starter relay and managed to get the motor started. New problem ( I am about to slice my wrists here)...the black wire with the exposed connector in the pic was connected to the starter relay at the (I) post, I reconnected and as I tried to start the motor (which it did),, there was a spark and the wire burned off at the little black box. Is this a ground wire that I can just ground somewhere else? I dont want to loose cut off switch functionality by leaving it loose.

I have this kind of slave solenoid
slave solenoid.jpg
The tow side post are for the large red wires, the yellow wire is connected to the (S) terminal, and on the original slave solenoid, there was a small black wire connected to the (I) terminal. I re-wired the new one just the same but it sounded like the black wire shorted out and snapped off. The motor starts on the first turn now, and quickly too....

After doing some more research, I found out this terminal is for a wire routed to the ignition coil, I am not sure if my motor uses such terminal or not....
 
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Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

ok, power to the coil while crankiing comes from the outboard small lug of the solenoid mounted to the starter. You are showing a slave solenoid.
If its a marine unit ,you need ppower to 1 small lug and ground to the other lug. If you use a auto one ,you need power to a small lug and the case ,when bolted down creates the ground for it to operate. this is the color code for a marine slave solenoid .Colors are off, left large lug, is Yellow/Red, right lug is Red/Purple, small ones are yellw/red thin, and black
slave20solenoid-Copy_zps0e5b6dbe.jpg
 
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Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

Untitledaa_zpsd359d69f.jpg
 

TampaBoater

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

ok, power to the coil while crankiing comes from the outboard small lug of the solenoid mounted to the starter. You are showing a slave solenoid.
If its a marine unit ,you need ppower to 1 small lug and ground to the other lug. If you use a auto one ,you need power to a small lug and the case ,when bolted down creates the ground for it to operate. this is the color code for a marine slave solenoid .Colors are off, left large lug, is Yellow/Red, right lug is Red/Purple, small ones are yellw/red thin, and black
slave20solenoid-Copy_zps0e5b6dbe.jpg

Thanks Bt Doctur.....I got the slave solenoid at the auto parts store, and its like you said, the motor is up and running now. The problem now is that the wire that was connected to the (I) terminal of the old slave is now loose... i don't know if I can leave like that without major consequences, or do I have to conecte it to the coil, is it a ground wire? I dunno what to do with it...
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: 85' GM 305 replaced riser gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil, and now it won't sta

Would prefer to see a marine rated SPARK ARRESTED solenoid so you don't blow yourself up.
But just remove the black wire from the block on the shift plate.
 
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