85 hp force outboard no spark

Johnny2017

Recruit
Joined
Apr 16, 2022
Messages
1
I have a 85 hp outboard motor I get no spark all 3 cylinders new plugs it turn good but nothing I keep hearing about a kill switch but can't seem to find one the boats a 1990 the ignition is on the shifter case on the side any suggestions
 

martymcfly62

Cadet
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
25
I have a 85 hp outboard motor I get no spark all 3 cylinders new plugs it turn good but nothing I keep hearing about a kill switch but can't seem to find one the boats a 1990 the ignition is on the shifter case on the side any suggestions
Say check this out. I have a vip boat with a Force 125 hp outboard. I had what sounds like the same type of problem you're having. I wasn't getting any spark on any 4 cylinders. I was told the same thing about a kill switch. Never found one. I did research on this and it took several days of painstaking research. Every where I would turn I was led to the stator. So, I'm not the type of fella who starts throwing money at parts just to see if it fixes it. I did resistance checks on my coils first. Primary and secondary checks compared each reading I got from all coil packs. They were all real close to being the same. Then the next in line was my stator wires and the big square diode (rectifier). Stator wire readings were inconsistent with what was stated. Ta DA. I changed out the stator, problem solved! If you're not familiar with doing these checks for resistance and so forth, just keep doing research and you'll find what you need after some extensive work. Electrical things associated with ignitions are not all that easy for some as it can stump me also, and im certified in the electronics field. Be patient but persistent and it will pay off. The stator is under the flywheel and it gives it voltage to fire the (cdi) box which in turn multiples this voltage to charge primary of coil so that it collapses onto secondary before completing the cycle an
lighting up the sparkplug. Good luck and let me know if this has helped...
 

martymcfly62

Cadet
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
25
Say check this out. I have a vip boat with a Force 125 hp outboard. I had what sounds like the same type of problem you're having. I wasn't getting any spark on any 4 cylinders. I was told the same thing about a kill switch. Never found one. I did research on this and it took several days of painstaking research. Every where I would turn I was led to the stator. So, I'm not the type of fella who starts throwing money at parts just to see if it fixes it. I did resistance checks on my coils first. Primary and secondary checks compared each reading I got from all coil packs. They were all real close to being the same. Then the next in line was my stator wires and the big square diode (rectifier). Stator wire readings were inconsistent with what was stated. Ta DA. I changed out the stator, problem solved! If you're not familiar with doing these checks for resistance and so forth, just keep doing research and you'll find what you need after some extensive work. Electrical things associated with ignitions are not all that easy for some as it can stump me also, and im certified in the electronics field. Be patient but persistent and it will pay off. The stator is under the flywheel and it gives it voltage to fire the (cdi) box which in turn multiples this voltage to charge primary of coil so that it collapses onto secondary before completing the cycle an
lighting up the sparkplug. Good luck and let me know if this has helped...
 

martymcfly62

Cadet
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
25
My first thoughts of the problem was the cdi boxes. Those are hermetrically sealed and very seldom go bad. Now on the other hand those stators are more prone to shorting because of the voltages they produce and being in close proximity to the engine and the heat generated by the engine. So basically I started at one end of the spectrum and determined if the component under test was good. Then move to the next. I didn't find out much on how to actually test a cdi box with just a multimeter so I went to the stator wiring harness where it plugs into cdi boxes and took resistance checks on the stator. Two different sides coming out of stator are to have the same resistance or at least really close to the same and within a certain range. One was one wasn't. Pulled flywheel and changed out stator but left the trigger device and "wallaa" the damn thing fired right up! Achievement, accomplishment. It's a good feeling. My boss kept shaking his head and kept saying, you're not gonna be able to get it running! Proved his ass wrong. Good better best, never let em rest until the good gets better and the better gets best! Patience and persistence. Wisdom is golden and shouldn't be lost. Share it if know it so it can carry on. I would like to thank those that share their knowledge and wisdom on this forum and elsewhere for the price of nothing. It makes me feel good to be able to help someone else with what I might know because nowadays most folks are not gonna share anything that doesn't come without a price tag.
 

martymcfly62

Cadet
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
25
My first thoughts of the problem was the cdi boxes. Those are hermetrically sealed and very seldom go bad. Now on the other hand those stators are more prone to shorting because of the voltages they produce and being in close proximity to the engine and the heat generated by the engine. So basically I started at one end of the spectrum and determined if the component under test was good. Then move to the next. I didn't find out much on how to actually test a cdi box with just a multimeter so I went to the stator wiring harness where it plugs into cdi boxes and took resistance checks on the stator. Two different sides coming out of stator are to have the same resistance or at least really close to the same and within a certain range. One was one wasn't. Pulled flywheel and changed out stator but left the trigger device and "wallaa" the damn thing fired right up! Achievement, accomplishment. It's a good feeling. My boss kept shaking his head and kept saying, you're not gonna be able to get it running! Proved his ass wrong. Good better best, never let em rest until the good gets better and the better gets best! Patience and persistence. Wisdom is golden and shouldn't be lost. Share it if know it so it can carry on. I would like to thank those that share their knowledge and wisdom on this forum and elsewhere for the price of nothing. It makes me feel good to be able to help someone else with what I might know because nowadays most folks are not gonna share anything that doesn't come without a pricetag
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
85/125 Kill switch's??
They didn't come with a kill switch (KS) on the motor.
If it had a KS it usually came on the dash and had a cord and plug.
The later years the KS came on the shifter (Mercury)

outboardignitiondotcom has some tests for the components they sell.
Testing the packs: no set procedures for testing. Any used pack by now 30+ years old have gone bad if they were going to.
The best test is to swap one pack for the other, all 85/125/150 came with at least 2 that could be swapped.
Coils: never ever has all 4 coils gone bad at once.
Stators can test good and still be bad.
 
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