85HP Force Low rpm

Simple_Man

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lets start with a thanks to everybody here. My motor will not get above 3500 rpm. thanks to everybody here it idles smooth hole shot is good. just cant get above 3500 rpm wondering what to check first.
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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First you need to check if it is properly linked and synched, i.e. at full throttle the carb's "butterflies" are at full horizontal with reference to the carb's body. Second, make sure with the control throttle the timing tower move linearly. And third, make sure the unit does not starve of fuel. Install a clear fuel filter (G2 Fram from Walmart for about $5 will do) between the fuel pump outlet and the carbs, then while testing in the water for full speed check make sure the clear fuel filter stays at least 1/2~3/4 full. If not you have fuel delivery problem.
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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Compression and then a spark check.
Any prop changes lately?
Did it ever rev up?
More info??
 

Simple_Man

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Jiggz I believe i have the link and sync done correctly. checked top dead center cleaned carbs checked spark. the filter stays mostly full. Jerry Compression is 125 on all three no prop change and not really sure I just installed the Tach
 

SkiDad

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Force takes a special tach. If you don't have a 20 pole that might explain the low reading. If you are going faster than 25 mph that might explain the tach issue.
 

Simple_Man

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It is a 20 pole tach I get 25 mph on the gps at 3500 rpm on a 17' bayliner capri bowrider
 

SkiDad

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what prop are you running - typically that boat will have a 19 pitch for cruising and 17 for serious water skiing. Your numbers seem to indicate a 19 pitch.

anyhow have you verified that you get your throttle all the way open like Jiggz said ? seems like you are only getting 3/4 throttle. Are you sure all 3 cylinders are getting spark ? Do all 3 spark plugs look the same when you pull them to clean ?
 

Jiggz

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Verify the throttles and make sure they go on horizontal. As mentioned, verify spark on all cylinders. If both check positive, the next step is to make sure your prop is not oversized for you boat and engine. And finally, do the spray test while running WOT in the water. This test requires two person. One will be driving while the other will be working at the engine.

Fill a sprayer bottle with fuel oil mix. Remove the cowl (engine off in the water), remove the air covers for the carbs. Start engine and make sure nothing lose in the boat can get sucked in to the engine. Next make sure you are clear of other boats and nav hazards. Slowly bring control throttle to WOT and watch RPM. If rpm reaches 5000~5500 RPM with the cowl off, you might have exhaust leak.

If RPM stays max at 3500, start spraying fuel mix into each cylinder while watching for increase or decrease in engine rpm. You will have to spray almost continuous into each cylinder to see the difference. A decrease indicates that cylinder and carb are working properly. It decreases in rpm when you spray fuel oil mix because it makes the air mixture too rich. An increase indicates that cylinder is either not firing or misfiring, meaning it is starving of fuel due to a faulty carburetor.

If there is no increase in rpm, it tells you all carbs and fuel delivery are working properly. So the likely source of low rpm is just either too much load on the prop or the motor timing is off. Make sure the WOT timing is set at 30 degrees static. For prop load, even with a correct size prop, you can inadvertently increase load on a prop if you the boat is not properly trimmed, meaning you are "plowing" into the water.
 

Simple_Man

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Thanks all I will do everything you say and let you know it might be a couple of days work sucks I dont have tilt and trim using the 2nd hole from the transom
 

Psychosis

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I just went through the same thing with my 90HP on a 17' tidecraft wildfire. First of all my gas line was restricting fuel and at 3000 it would starve. Fixed that and the motor runs excellent but will only do 4000 rpm and 30mph gps. Got home and found that with the control at full WOT my carbs were only opening about 1/2 to 3/4 off the way. Did the link and sync on the carbs and they now open all the way with the control at WOT position. Just gotta try mine out now.

Here is the best way to see if your carbs are actually opening all the way. First of all, with motor not running, push the control all the way forward to full WOT position. Walk to the motor and push down on the black roller that the cam pushes and see if the carbs open up more. If they do then you are not opening the carbs all the way at WOT and need to redo your link and sync on the carbs. You can always take the spark arrestor off the carbs to see the butterflies but I am sure the butterflies stop opening at fully open.
 

jerryjerry05

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That 17 without Trim/tilt should still do almost 35-40.
With a 17 or a 19 it still should rev past 3500
He'd need a 21 or 23p prop to slow it down that much.
Gas line: you only need a 1/ 4in hose to run that.
The vent line clogged? or possibly any inline connectors need removed.
The connectors have rubber in them and can suck air when it goes bad.
When I got my boat new in 88. That's the first thing I did, remove the inline connectors.
 

Simple_Man

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comp is 125 on all three cylinders just did the link n sync again my throttle plates open about 1/8 in past horizontal brite blue spark on all three. waiting for timing lite to check timing. all fuel line is new. carbs cleaned no pluged vent inline filter stays almost full have to do timing and get it back on the water.. oh yeah cant find the markings on the prop the old one that came with is a 13 in 19 pitch but there are a couple of small chips one the ends of 2 blades.
 

Jiggz

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When you say filter stays almost full is that at WOT in the water? Or just idling at the driveway? If it's the latter then you need to do the former. 13"-19P is about right for your motor. When you do your next test in the water make sure you bring in a spray bottle with fuel oil mix in it.
 

Jiggz

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Great. That means the source of the problem is not with fuel "delivery" but that doesn't mean it is not fuel related as it can be carburetion problem which is still considered fuel related. To remove the carbs from the equation, you will need to do the sprayer test. And if there is no increase in RPM while engine throttle is at WOT (meaning there is a decrease due to overly rich mixture because carbs are working properly), the only thing left to check is the timing.

If timing is verified to be correct, will it be possible for you to make video of the engine running at WOT and post a link of it on utube? For an engine to not reach past 3500 RPM would have to be seriously misfiring or stuttering unless the throttles are not opening fully or it is seriously overloaded.
 

Simple_Man

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UGGGGGG rain was gonna go test tonite the timing was off a bit hope this fixes it
 

Simple_Man

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OK update I have a weird problem. The butterflies open full when the engine is not running, when the engine is running they only open about half way, This has me puzzled cuz it is all mechanical they should be open when running UGGGGGGG
 
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Jiggz

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It may be weird, at least now you know the source of the problem. And fixing it should just be a walk in the park. Congrats just let us know what the final solution.
 

Simple_Man

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Thanks all wound up being a loose throttle cable slipping under load
 
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