86 force 85hp trim pump issues

[notsunkyet]

Ok was gonna get brave and replace the seals in the upper part of the trim pump body and got the C clips out and couldnt get the valves out.. also the SS lines are galled into the housing... a flare wrench was a no go and the only other way i know of to get the flare nuts out is to break the line and 6 point socket... any other ideas?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 86 force 85hp trim pump issues

the threads are more valuable than the tubes. You can hunt down 3/16" tubing made from CuNi 9010 alloy and make better than original tubes. However, CuNi is very hard to find. It's not going to be at any local NAPA or mail order parts house. So if there is absolutely no way to save the threads then you may as well save the tubing.

The only real cure for galling is a magic way-back wand. It time travels back before the anode was neglected and gives you a chance to do proper maintenance. Other than one of those, there is no easy way out.

 

[notsunkyet]

Re: 86 force 85hp trim pump issues

ok so if i have the ability to get to the up and down valves how do i pop them out? there are no screw slots, no cap heads nothing just flat macjined aluminum?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 86 force 85hp trim pump issues

don't lose or damage clips. They MUST be stainless and they are very difficult to find.

don't bend, drill, or pry the check valves. if you weaken the aluminum housing or body then new check valve might pop out or come apart.

Once clips are out just run the pump over a bucket and the check valves should pop out. I would advise you to avoid this particular home repair though. More people fail than succeed with this effort and very, very few end up with a valve body that is trouble free for years to come. Check iboats and ebay for rebuilders. You should be able to send it out for $120-$140 (depending upon internal revision of your particular valve body).


If the white residue associated with galvanic corrosion (galling) is visible around end of plugs (check valves and retaining clips) then definitely don't mess with it at home.

 

[moparman]

Re: 86 force 85hp trim pump issues

You might take a cut off wheel on a die grinder and cut through the outer part of the flare nut to remove it ,taking care not to cut through the threads on the inside. Take your time ,and it can be done, I've cut bearings off spindles this way,and the occasional egr tube flare nut. Hope this helps,keep us posted on your progress. ................... Roll TIDE MOPARMAN

 

[RRitt]

Re: 86 force 85hp trim pump issues

You might take a cut off wheel on a die grinder and cut through the outer part of the flare nut to remove it ,taking care not to cut through the threads on the inside. Take your time ,and it can be done, I've cut bearings off spindles this way,and the occasional egr tube flare nut. Hope this helps,keep us posted on your progress. ................... Roll TIDE MOPARMAN

i'd be really hard put to recommend this. The problem is usually galling more than anything else. The stainless reacts with the aluminum caused the aluminum to oxidize. AL-OX is 10x bigger than just plain AL. The result is an incredibly tight press-fit that is often stronger than any normal tool or hydraulic press. It is brittle though and sometimes you can crack it with vibration or heat.

The tube nut is stainless which is way stronger than the aluminum. If you get desperate cut the tube and use a six sided socket. The nut is plently strong to rip out the old threads along with any galling. Be prepared to face thread repair. Regular rust-break liquids designed for steel and iron don't do much for aluminum galling. You'll need mild acid like vinegar or heat ... or both.