Re: 86 Johnson 225 Troubble shooting, Fires revs dies FIXED!!!
Do the basic trouble shooting procedure.<br /><br />Remove one fuel primer line from the intake manifold. Pump the fuel primer bulb... fuel should NOT flow out that line. Now turn the ignition key to the RUN position (engine NOT running) and press the key in to actuate the fuel primer solenoid. Fuel should now flow out of that line when the fuel primer bulb is compressed. If you encounter a different scenario in this test, find out why. If all is as it should be, read on.<br /><br />You've checked the compression which is satisfactory, so check the spark as follows.<br /><br />Rig up some kind of spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" Gap for the spark to jump. Don't try to check the spark with the spark plugs installed or by having the spark jump the plug gap. <br /><br />With the spark plugs removed (out!), the spark should jump that 7/16" Gap gap with a strong wide blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it? <br /><br />If not, disconnect the large main RED electrical connector at the engine, then crank the engine by using a small jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid to engage it (not the 3/8" ground nut). If the spark now improves to what it should be, the weak spark problem is most likely a failing ignition switch (shorting), in which case, replace it.<br /><br />If the spark is still weak, look under the flywheel at the large black coils on the rear portion of the stator. If they are melting and oozing a sticky substance down on the block and timer base, replace the stator assembly. Those large black soils are the beginning of the ignition system, delivering approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpacks. When they start to melt down, that AC voltage drops and the ignition becomes erratic, and eventually fails all together.<br /><br />I assume you're using Champion QL77JC4 spark plugs with the gap set at .040. If not, do so.<br /><br />Now, if you've cleaned and assembled those carburetors properly, and the primer solenoid operates as it should, and you have compression, fuel, and spark, and the flywheel key hasn't sheared (note that the flywheel nut must be torqued to exactly 145 foot pounds or that key will shear).... That engine has to run.