'87 Force 85hp Stalls every time from a smooth idle when going into gear..?

[FingerLaker]

Hi all, newbie here... 87' Bayliner 1700 Cobra.

My 87' Force 85, which ran like a top at all RPMs- once I got her into gear with a bit of a throttle shove and some luck (3 tries..) will stall every time from a smooth idle, warmed up or not. Even after a cruise of nearly an hour, with nearly perfect transitions through RPM ranges, including a fairly low one, still stalled when back at the ramp shifting into reverse. She did start a little hesitantly every time, but I think I have that trick down. Typical Choke a bit- then no choke- till quick repeat fires (about 3) result in her catching at idle.
Sorry, I need to get a tach as the boat doesn't have one, but again the idle seemed perfectly stable. Not once did she stall once at idle. This was her first outing this year after sitting for about a year in winterization state. I know, terrible, but I bought her in Nov last).

Any ideas? Do I just need to idle her up some? Or do shifters sometimes cause this problem?

Thanks for any advice any may have, happy boating!!
-Finger Laker

 

[Nordin]

Check the settings of the air/fuel mixture screw at each carb.
If too lean setting it will stall when going into gear.
Good start settngi is 1 1/4-1 1/2 turn out from seated then you maybe have to fine tune it and increase the idle.
Idle should be 750-800 rpm in gear and in water.

 

[FingerLaker]

Will check all these, thanks Nordin!

 

[jerryjerry05]

The air screws on the 85 need to be set at 1 turn out..
That's about 1100-1200 in N in the water or on the hose.

They sell a Tiny Tach works great for setting up the motor.
The idle is adjusted at the tower shaft, bottom and there's a screw with a lock nut.
Undo the locknut and turn in or out.

Since your new: the lower unit has a slotted screw on the side.
DON'T remove.
The oil drain is on the bottom.
Removal of that screw can cause lots of problems.

 

[foodfisher]

Your symptoms are a perfect description of too low idle speed.

 

[FingerLaker]

OK, thanks, foodfisher and JerryJerry, for the warning and the /Tach tip, Yes, I've got the shop manual so I'll get the idle adjusted and cross my fingers... Thanks again!

 

[FingerLaker]

Happy Summer, all!! Its even coming slowly to the Finger Lakes! Got my tach installed on the motor (thanks, JerryJerry) and a rough adjust of the idle done, and I'm hoping to be in the water now that boat ramps are open near me now! I noticed something new I thought I'd ask you Force-ers about. I've got the dual exhaust "power-Flow' ports on this model, and while checking everything over this spring, I've noticed that theres some strange material nearly blocking the ports apparently. No idea how long its been there (again, motor ran fine in early October) but it is hard and chrystalline, and i can pick small pieces of it off with an extended paperclip, but it would take a ice pick to break it up.. and where would it go if I do? I can't both break it up and get it out, there's not enough room. More importantly, before I do anything: I'm not looking at some vestige of a functional cutoff on this thing, am I? I did notice that as i push on one side, it seems to be connected inside. No info on exhaust in the Clymers for this model. Thanks again, and hope you guys are all on the water where you are!

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 2 holes are just holes that the exhaust exits through.
There's a rubber boot, a spring and a hard round piece of plastic in there that's probably slipped.

Pull the cover off and look at the rubber boot.
Find a parts diagram and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[FingerLaker]

Thanks so much again, JerryJerry! Yeah, from the outside the boot looks fine, but I guess you're saying I should remove it and probe into the output side for somthing amiss. I do notice the two sides of material seem to have spring loaded feel when I push hard on them. Any particular sites you recommend going to for diagrams of these old beasts? Thanks again and happy sunday!

Chris

 

[Scaaty]

Just turn the idle up...........had to do same my 125

 

[jerryjerry05]

boatsdotnet for Force/Chrysler look under Mercury outboards.

Don't turn the idle up until you remove the blockage in the hose/boot.

 

[FingerLaker]

Thanks, Scaaty, and again, JerryJerry, I'll get on those sources, and thanks! I did already turn it up earlier in spring before noticing the ?blockage? issue last week, but I appreciate the tip on the potential connection: makes sense! Before I saw this, we went out yesterday and she ran fine, 3 hours + going into gear 8/10 times, but the idle up to 1200 or so is still not enough to go into gear without quitting every time. Exhaust ports are spitting plenty, but who knows... But I'll resolve the port problem before taking any further action to raise the idle
Thanks again, all!

 

[Tmf79]

I have a force 125, 1987. Your problem may be simpler than you think. With those motors when you put it in to gear you can not "sissy" it. Push it down quickly and firmly, don't worry you won't take off like you'd expect because you're not on plane yet

 

[The Force power]

I have a force 125, 1987. Your problem may be simpler than you think. With those motors when you put it in to gear you can not "sissy" it. Push it down quickly and firmly, don't worry you won't take off like you'd expect because you're not on plane yet

???

That does not make any sense!!
Way to go to giving wrong advice & ruin your dog-clutch

 

[Redbarron%%]

You can't ease a dog clutch into engagement. You need to do it quickly or you will just knock the corners off the dogs

 

[jerryjerry05]

???

That does not make any sense!!
Way to go to giving wrong advice & ruin your dog-clutch

TMF79 is right.
You shift slow into gear it can ruin the dog and gears.

Never throw stones in print.

 

[The Force power]

The issue is not the way to engage into gear, but stalling-out when put in gear.
That IS what needs to focused on!

Yes, to all
Tooo slow of an engagement is not good of course! but now we're getting into; what is & what isn't

I guess I misunderstood

 

[Nordin]

Always do the engagement of the gear in a fast distinct way, never a slow engagement.
It will damage the sharp edges at the clutch dog.

If the engine stall when put in gear, start with checking the setting of the air/fuel screw at the carb/carbs.
If they are to lean the engine will stall when putingt into gear.
The general setting should be about 1-1,5 turn out from lightly seated.
But keep in mind that some engines need richer setting to work (2-3 turn sometimes).
I have notice that 15-25Hp OMC engines from late 60:es and 70:es need about 2,5 turn out.

When the air/fuel screw/screws are adjusted then set the idle with the engine running in water and in gear to about 7-800 RPM.
In this case I think the air/fuel setting of the carbs are to lean.

 

[Tmf79]

Fingerlaker, trust me, the us marine corporation who makes force motors clearly explains in the 1987 force owners manual to NOT ease the shifter into gear as this will cause damage . They suggest moving the shifter in a "quick snapping motion " I have the original manual download, I can't remember exactly where I found it but it was easy to find. Read it bc sand you will see that redbarron and I are correct!


sorry, may the force be with you, but you are giving wrong advice that could ruin this guys boat!!!

 

[The Force power]

sorry, may the force be with you, but you are giving wrong advice that could ruin this guys boat!!!

:deadhorse:
Yes, to all
Tooo slow of an engagement is not good of course! but now we're getting into; what is & what isn't

I guess I misunderstood