88 force 50 hp maintenance

[88 Bayliner Force 50]

Hello. I am new to this board. I recently purchased a 88 bayliner capri with a 50 hp force motor. I took the boat out this weekend for about an hour to see how well the engine would run. The engine seems to run pretty good on wide open throttle. When you just start the engine up it has a tendancy to stall out when you put it in gear. Also if you are just sitting at idle for a few moments the engine will stall. Even after running at wide open throttle for about 15 mins. I was told buy the seller when we test drove it that it seems like the motor is running a little rich. He said that adjusting the screw on the carb should help along with changing the plugs and gas.He also recomended replacing the water pump to be on the safe side. I have had the boat 3 weeks and have done a little work to the interior but have not started on the motor yet. I am new to boats and the history on the one that I bought is that the original owner purchased the boat in 88 for his son who thought the boat was too slow. It sat for a long time and had very little use. The man I purchased the boat from wanted the boat to put the motor from it on a pontoon boat but never got around to it So i bought the boat for a reasonable price. I would like to know what type work I should do on the motor 1st to get it running properly.Like I said the motor runs really well but i think it needs some fine tuning.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Hello bayliner and welcome to Iboats. Your problem is very typical. The standard answer is to rebuild the carb and the fuel pump, replace the fuel lines and start with fresh gas oil mix. Typically when this problem starts people want to blame that mixture adjust screw. You will want to get a decent Force service manual and spend a lot of time with the red search button at the top of this screen and do a search on your motor and read as much as possible on it. Carb rebuild is not to bad and the fuel pump is easy. The manual will walk you through all of it.

 

[roscoe]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Welcome to iboats.<br /><br />1- get a Clymer Force repair manual<br />2- Inspect all wires and hoses for cracks, corrosion, leaks, etc.<br />3- flush out the old gas<br />4- replace fuel pump diaphram<br />5- change lower unit lube<br />6- change the water pump impeller<br />7- clean and rebuild the carb, idle screw at 1 and 1/8 turns out from lightly seated.<br />8- use fresh 87 octane gas with a quality tc-w3 2 cycle oil, 2.6 ounces per gallon, or 16 ounces per 6 gallons<br />9- Add a few ounces of SeaFoam to the gas<br />10- Get a can of SeaFoam Deep Creep and perform a decarb on the engine.<br />11- replace the sparkplugs.<br /><br />About $110 well spent for peace of mind and a safe voyage.<br /><br />And replace the inline fuel filter if you have one.<br /><br />Keep us posted.

 

[roscoe]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

There you go again eurolarva, posting while I was typing.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Sorry Roscoe. Your response is much more detailed then mine.

 

[88 Bayliner Force 50]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Thanks for the info. Is it hard to rebuild the carburator? I have purchased a manual. I was thinking of decarbing the motor 1st and replacing the fuel along with the filter and plugs. Is rebuilding the carb a priority? I have read alot of opionions about the force motors. Some are good and alot are bad. Exaclty what can I expect form a 50 hp force. Does it hold up well? Will it need alot of tlc? I noticed that when i 1st start it up the motor shakes alot like it needs soething to hold it in place on the bottom of the boat. Is this common with these motors?

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Yes it is a high priority. Problem is with gas containing a lot of alcohal it hardens rubber so that it feels like plastic. Probably 80 percent of fuel related problems are in the carb and fuel pump. Fuel pump is the easiest to do by far. The carb rebuild kits come with directions on how to do the carb. It is very simple on a single carb outboard because there is no synronizing to do. I would do the carb and fuel pump first then do the decarb and here is my reason. Using decarb spray on an outboard it is tough to keep the motor going. It will want to die if you put too much in at a time. Also after you spray a bunch into the cylinders and let it sit for a couple of hours you want to make sure your motor will start and run so you can burn all that crap out.<br /><br />When you do the rebuild you might want to check the recircuilation screens to verify they are not plugged. When you drive the boat do you see a film of gas following the boat?

 

[procraftmark]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

I have the same motor how do you check the recirculation screen ? Where is it at?<br /><br /><br />thnx<br />mark

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Here is a blow up of the recirculation system<br />

<br /><br />Item number 10 is the screen then all of the elbows. Item 28 is a check valve so fuel will only go one way there.

 

[procraftmark]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

euro do you have to take out screws 18 -19 to get to the screen? If so will the little parts 12 thru 15 be hard to keep in place? Can you tell if the screen is plugged by visual inspection and is there a gasket to be replaced if taking off?<br /><br />whew lot of questions.<br /><br />thnx<br />mark

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Maybe Roscoe can help you with that. I own a chrysler which is different. Hopefully someone that has done this work before can help you.

 

[roscoe]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

part 12-13-14 are secured to part 11, with a screw- (part 15.)

 

[procraftmark]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Thnx Roscoe do you know the answer to the rest of my question?<br /><br /><br />thnx mark

 

[Realgun]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Things to do before you tear any carb apart and prep motor for running.<br /><br />1. Change Spark plugs.<br />Inspect the old plugs to see if they are wet and extremly dirty. If they are clean or 1 is clean you have a water leak of some kind. Think Head gasket.<br />2. Change fuel bulb and Fuel pump. Pump is a thin rubber sheet and is very easy to replace. Bulb is easier usually two clamps. These items get brittle and leak so need replacing every two-three years wheather used or not.<br />3. Change fuel filter. If there is no fuel filter get 1 and install it after the bulb.<br />This keeps the gunk out of the carbs. Not matter how clean the fuel is there is always something flaoting in the fuel that will clog the wee little holes in the carb.<br />4. Change the gasoline if it has been sitting a while. Old gas loses a lot of pep and can gum thing up pretty good. More so with older fuels less with newer.<br />5. BE SURE TO ADD THE OIL TO THE FUEL. 50:1 is the ratio. This is how the oil gets into the motor. If you forget to add this you had better hope you have the mony to rebuild or to buy a new motor.<br />6. Run a can of seafoam through the tank. This cleans the gunk in the carburator and in the tank itself. It also cleans the sludge in the motor and can actually make an older motr work better, as increasing the compression due to unsticking the rings.<br />7. Add fuel stabilizer to tank also. You may not use the boat for a few mothes at a time and the fuel will start to gum up the carbs.<br />8. Change water pump. This is a great idea as you will not have your motor overheat due to a broken pump. The pump is a plastic vaned wheel that turns with the motor. As they get older the fins can fail and the motor will overheat. This wrecks the Force motors especially.<br />9. Change the thermostat. They can get weak or stick due to age and crude in the water.<br />10. Change lower unit oil. Do NOT remove the slotted screw on the lower starboard side side but the allen screw on the bottom!!!!<br />When you remove the 80-90wt gear oil the oil should be relativly clear. If it is milky there is water in the oil and you will need to reseal the lower unit.<br />11. Remove propeller to check for fishing line around shaft and pull thrust washer to look also.<br />Grease the prop shaft. Fishing line will cut the lower unit seals. Greasing the shaft will make it easy to replace that prop if you it a rock or something else in the water.<br /><br />Carb adjust-<br />Now go to lake and start motor. If it will not idle then use a screw driver and close the idle mixture 1/8 turn on both carbs. I assume 2 on yours. Start motor. If it idles then let it idle for a few minutes. Then when warm close both screws lightly (important>>count turns in however, and then turn 1 turn out. Start motor again. If it ildes great. if not resset to original setting. Then start turning counter clockwise till motor slows, turn slowly. Then turn counterclockwise till motor speeds up and then slows. Then turn to the middle of those points and turn counterclockwise 1/16 turn. Then repeat same for other carb.<br /><br />Take boat at ilde speeds to no wake area off the dock and try forward and reverse to see if motor dies. If it still dies you need a rebuild on the carbs. However it could be a worn seat but not likely with your motor. you said it was stored and not used much.<br /><br />I knowe I am repeating above but trying to help with our motors.

 

[roscoe]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

Sorry about that Mark.<br /><br />Yes, remove 18 and 19 to access the screen.<br /><br />#9 is a gasket, part # 27-F93748-1<br /><br />#16 is a gasket, part # 27-F93472-1<br /><br />Cheap, under $3 each.<br /><br />Yes you can visually inspect the screen, after you remove it.<br />It will likely have black gunk in it.

 

[procraftmark]

Re: 88 force 50 hp maintenance

thnx all<br /><br /><br />mark