Re: 88 spl ram removal
You're not having any luck are you!

Why did you need to buy the tip extension, i assume it fit fine before you took it apart no? We're getting there though one step at a time. Ok so if Im understanding you correctly, you are getting action from the trim cylinders right?? If so, that limits the possible problems. If the tilt cylinder is not responding, the first thing that I would check would be that after bleeding you do in fact have a FULL resevoir. If so, check that manual release valve that you have been loosening, make sure it is tight and the seal is not leaking at all. Ok the next thing you have to check is a valve. This valve is below the motor and pump, not the resevoir, pretty much in the center of it. To find it, there should be pressure test points along the port side of the unit (motor side). Find the second one in (which is the middle one) and follow it straight in, after it turns into an elbow (90 degree towards the boat) will be the valve. What you have to do is make sure that it has full and free movement of core, that the outlets arent clogged, and that there is no dirt, chips in seat area holding the valve open. When you get to it you will know what I mean. If that passes, I hope you have some type of pressure gauge, if not you can get one pretty cheap. Install it in the first spot that I told you about, to the left of the line you just followed. Run the motor in the up direction and read the pressure, trim cylinder fully extended. If it reads about 1500 psi, check the passages and oil lines to the tilt cylinder for blockage. Check the tilt cylinder for binding movement. IF you dont get a pressure reading, check tilt cylinder lines for external leaks, and those little buggers are expensive for what they are! Now cycle the motor in both directions to allow any trapped air to be removed. Ensure manual release valve is closed tightly. Remove manual release snap ring, remove valve core, and check the o ring and valve seal. Now there is another valve to check the same way I showed you how to check the first one. This one however is located right where the third pressure test point is. In fact the pressure test point actually "tees" into it. then check the o ring on the second pressure test point, the middle one. There is more to this after but i dont want to frustrate you with a long drawn out description , which Im afraid I already did. Let me know what you find. I hope that it is just a leak somewhere that you can visually see.