'88 Wellcraft Nova 23 XL - Stringer replacement

[MikeySpeedR]

The life of a boat owner has extreme high’s and low’s. That’s for sure.


I absolutely love my newly purchased ‘88 Wellcraft Nova 23 XL. It’s the hull design and interior layout I wanted and it has the engine/outdrive I wanted.

Sadly my maiden voyage with the boat did not go that well. I was under about half power on plain when the starboard motor mount/stringer collapsed and it then threw the engine out of alignment and caused the coupler to be destroyed. I had to be towed back to the dock.

Today I had the chance to pull the engine..

ANY tips/tricks/pointers on rebuilding would be greatly appreciated!

-Mike

 

[tpenfield]

Well, the good news is that you left no doubt about needing a rebuild.

I would check the stringers forward of the engine bay to see how much rot they have and how far forward.

Your fuel tank probably needs to come out for further inspection of the stringers and the tank itself. Also check the transom for moisture/rot. Drill into the stringers (low towards the hull) and various areas around the transom to get an idea of what lies within.

I think you'll be cutting out the floor and re-building from the hull upwards.

 

[GSPLures]

Glad you are ok, could of been a lot worse. This is the right place for a rebuild lots of knowledgeable people on this forum. Read through the links at the top of the forum and also frisco boaters youtube channels will give you a lot of knowledge and an idea of the work ahead.

 

[Scott Danforth]

ANY tips/tricks/pointers on rebuilding would be greatly appreciated!

-Mike

start by the stickies at the top of this forum

specifically this one https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

and go thru links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety. watch every video, look at every picture, read everything.

especially link 14.

 

[MikeySpeedR]

Well, the good news is that you left no doubt about needing a rebuild.

I would check the stringers forward of the engine bay to see how much rot they have and how far forward.

Your fuel tank probably needs to come out for further inspection of the stringers and the tank itself. Also check the transom for moisture/rot. Drill into the stringers (low towards the hull) and various areas around the transom to get an idea of what lies within.

I think you'll be cutting out the floor and re-building from the hull upwards.

Not sure how I feel about drilling holes in my transom.. Ideally I'm hoping to find a moisture gauge someone can lend me and I can check it out that way, I did the ball hammer test and it seems solid to me. No cracks or anything near the outdrive assembly.

It doesn't have wood floors, they are screwed down fiberglass. I don't know the exact name, but they are 3? i think large pieces.

 

[MikeySpeedR]

start by the stickies at the top of this forum

specifically this one https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

and go thru links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety. watch every video, look at every picture, read everything.

especially link 14.

I actually found the sea ray series and i watched the first video.. now i plan to watch all. Thanks!

 

[FunInDuhSun]

Congrats on the 23 Nova, they’re great handling boats- even in a good chop. I’ve had 2 of them, with one currently awaiting restoration. IMO they are worth preserving.

It doesn't have wood floors, they are screwed down fiberglass. I don't know the exact name, but they are 3? i think large pieces.

Those fiberglass floors (decks) are attached to the structural beams (stringers) which are wood encapsulated with fiberglass. These beams are secured to the transom and run forward, under the engine mounts. Problem was, back then the factory drilled holes (called limber holes) between the bilge sections and did not seal them. Water ended up wicking into the stringers and (most likely) the transom. When the stringer rot gets bad enough, the engine mounts drop like yours because the fiberglass in that area isn’t thick enough to be considered structural. By time an engine mount drops its likely the rot has also found its way back to the transom plywood.
Corrections are a lot of work BUT not terribly difficult if you don’t mind getting dirt under your fingernails. The GOOD news is the repairs can be done without damaging the hull. There are a lot of experienced guys on this forum that can guide you.
Whatever route you decide, good luck!

 

[MikeySpeedR]

Congrats on the 23 Nova, they’re great handling boats- even in a good chop. I’ve had 2 of them, with one currently awaiting restoration. IMO they are worth preserving.



Those fiberglass floors (decks) are attached to the structural beams (stringers) which are wood encapsulated with fiberglass. These beams are secured to the transom and run forward, under the engine mounts. Problem was, back then the factory drilled holes (called limber holes) between the bilge sections and did not seal them. Water ended up wicking into the stringers and (most likely) the transom. When the stringer rot gets bad enough, the engine mounts drop like yours because the fiberglass in that area isn’t thick enough to be considered structural. By time an engine mount drops its likely the rot has also found its way back to the transom plywood.
Corrections are a lot of work BUT not terribly difficult if you don’t mind getting dirt under your fingernails. The GOOD news is the repairs can be done without damaging the hull. There are a lot of experienced guys on this forum that can guide you.
Whatever route you decide, good luck!

I plan on fixing it, I was just HOPING since i spent a decent amount on the boat it would of at least given me one season of use... i got not even a day :/

I did tap on it pretty good and i wasn't hearing anything, i might pull the gimbal housing and then i can see if the transom condition.

 

[GSPLures]

Not sure how I feel about drilling holes in my transom.. Ideally I'm hoping to find a moisture gauge someone can lend me and I can check it out that way, I did the ball hammer test and it seems solid to me. No cracks or anything near the outdrive assembly.

It doesn't have wood floors, they are screwed down fiberglass. I don't know the exact name, but they are 3? i think large pieces.

You will have the resin and material to fix the drill hole and you are not going all the way through just fill with PB. If you want to add a fish finder or something you will have to drill anyway. Rot is very rarely localized, definitely after what you experienced, if it were me I would want to see every piece of structure.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I plan on fixing it, I was just HOPING since i spent a decent amount on the boat it would of at least given me one season of use... i got not even a day :/

I did tap on it pretty good and i wasn't hearing anything, i might pull the gimbal housing and then i can see if the transom condition.

tapping on a transom doesnt do a thing. not until the wood has fully rotted away and then the area dries out leaving a void will you hear a difference in sound by tapping on it.

basically, assume any fiberglass boat over 15 years old has issues.

 

[tpenfield]

Drill from the inside of the transom, just into the core, in a few places to 'map' out where the rot is. You can also do the same with the stringers and bulkheads.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Yeah, that sucks that you spent the money hoping for a good boat to have this happen. Same exact thing happened to a friend of mine’s Rinker. 5.7L dropped into the motor platform and wrecked the coupler. He removed the top of the platform, cleaned all the wood out and filled with Sea-Cast, then topped with fiberglass. He ran it that way for a year, then sold it. He did not want to do a total rehab and now it’s someone else’s problem.

Like most everyone else that discovers rot, they have hope it’s isolated to one area. Most of the wood pieces are connected together throughout the entire boat so moisture migrates easily throughout the entire structure. Once wet, it never dries out, and the rot begins. Hope turns to a heavy dose of reality, then acceptance, then you either get rid of the boat or take the time and money to repair it.

The good news is, once you repair it, it’ll be better than new. With proper care it’ll last a lot longer than the factory designed.

 

[MikeySpeedR]

So while it was nice out today I decided to work on the boat. The starboard motor mount box was 98% rotted. I only found solid wood towards the bottom and towards the transom. I also cut the top off the port side and it doesn’t look bad but since I’m in this far I might as well rebuild both.

I then core sampled all the surrounding wood and it seems in good solid shape. I believe the engine was pulled at some point and when it went back in the lagg bolts where not sealed correctly allowing water in.