89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

[wutevvvver]

200 xp STLCEB200 1989 E-rude. Went to the lake this morning cranked up the motor and putted around the lake at about 2500-3000 RPM (new gearbox). While there I stopped and restarted motor several times. No problems. My last start was fine but motor was lugging while trying to accelerate, so I moped to the marina area and figured I'd fish a while. About an hour later I put the boat on the trailer with trolling motor. My bat gauge showed 11 volts and motor wouldn't even crank. I figured to low voltage. So after I get boat on trailer and am preparing to leave I smell a plastic burning smell and see a little smove coming out of vent on motor cover. I quickly disconnected battery and then removed motor cover and see a tiny amount of smoke that appeared to be coming from the power pack. After getting home I inspected the power pack outside and inside to see what melted. Nothing appears to be burnt but the rubber sealant around the wires in the power pack cover looked cracked and split.
So I guess my question is, what the heck happened? Is there a procedure for testing the power pack for shorting? My manual tells me how to check power pack while connected to battery but I am not going connect it until I get an idea of what's wrong.
I do have a trim switch that sticks occaisionally, could that be the culprit? I'm lost

 

[hidef]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

So you had an electrical fire. It happens you need to disconnect and inspect the power pack if it cooked you will be able to tell. Also check the voltage regulator/rectifier to make sure that wasn't the culprit it sits under the power pack. A component has smoked and if it isn't dead yet it is only a matter of time. You can use the CDI troubleshooting guide to help you the link is in my sig. the ignition system for your outboard is between page 30 and 62.

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Thank you for the link! The CDI says that the resistance should be within a range due to variances in meters. But when I check resistance on the power pack it reads pretty close to the same on all but two of the pins, and it is way out. I'm guessing that that means to replace the pack but was the malfunction caused by age/deterioration, or could something upstream have caused that. I know you would need alot more hands on to know that, but have you ever heard of something like that or is there a "common" cause that you know of?
Just wondering. Thank you for your help again.

 

[hidef]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

I have over 30 years experience as an electronics tech. Sometimes electronics smoke and other times they just quit. Power packs failures do happen how common are they is anybodies guess. I would also check your voltage regulator to make sure that is okay too. From what I have seen on the site when you buy a new power pack get the CDI pack they seem the most reliable.

Items 34 and 57

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...e&section=Ignition+System+&+Starter+Motor

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Thank you I will take your advice. I'm looking at a CDI one now. I was just curious was all, even fighter jets fry electronics alot. Must be them darn Boeing gremlins again....

 

[hidef]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Heat and vibration can cause electronic parts to breakdown.

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

OK, so I have new power pack and rectifier on order. But I have been researching on iboats forum and have a few questions. I read that a bad battery could cause the rectifier to melt, would auto zone or o'rielly's be able to test for that? Also, the rectifier ,as i understand, supplies power to the power pack out to the coils. If the rectifier were bad or going bad would that cause the lugging and "out of gas" engine performance I experienced? Perhaps a dead cylinder or entire bank? I can't fish right now so I need something to ponder and if I learn something great maybe I can help someone else. Thanks for any insight.

 

[hidef]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

A bad rectifier can cause weird problems when the one on my 35 went out the engine wouldn't fire I unplugged the rectifier and it ran fine. A battery going bad can cause all kinds of issues too. With the battery disconnected check the voltage it should be 12.5 volts or so just sitting there with nothing hooked up to it. With the engine running you should show 13 volts or more. Less than 12 volts is a good sign that you battery either needs to charged or it is time to retire it if it won't take a charge.

 

[daselbee]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Did you try to start, start, start....run the starter alot?
By your description, it sounds as if the starter smoked, not the powerpack. Maybe the rectifier, but you would see it.
You would see it on the PP also.

I would put it back together, and start it up. See what is smoking, if anything. A smoking starter looks like it is coming from the
port side of the PP.

The rectifier does not provide power to the powerpack. Only the battery. A bad battery, one that charges and charges, and never holds that charge can cause the rectifier and stator to load up, heat up, and fail.
Autozone can load test the battery to see if it is good.

The stator provides about 200 +v AC on both of the brown pairs of wires to the pack. That voltage is rectified and switched out to the coils at the right time to fire each spark plug. Complex electronic circuit.

I don't see where you have tried to re-start it.....

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Thanks, I wish there was a way to unhook the rectifier then run my motor but it is under the power pack which i partially covered by the flywheel. To much crap in one space and I ain't that brave. Thanks again for all your help.
The last time I attempted to start, I turned the key once and nothing. I can have the starter checked, but once I removed the rectifier, I was appearant it was done. Black ooze and the smell of ozone. The smoke I saw was closer to the direct stern of the motor than the starter which is a little more than midship on the port side. I did see this afternoon while pulling all that crap off that the rectifier had been replaced atleast once before I got the motor possibly the stator too. There was some kind of goo below the flywheel that I found years ago and assumed that it was some type of adhesive spilled on the block.
After I saw it smoking and unhooked the bat, I never re-attached it. I've seen a few expensive gov't aircraft components smoke and then when powered up again cause even more damage. Better safe than sorry I guess.

 

[hidef]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Your rectifier is cooked the power pack is most likely fine but having a spare one isn't a bad idea. I would get the battery load tested just to make sure it is good.

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Just a follow up if you care, checked and rechecked the resistance on PP and rectifier according to CDI link you provided. Power pack is hosed I think only a four of the coil leads tested good( explains the lugging for sure) there was also a short to ground where there shoulnd't have been. The rectifier diode check confirmed it was toast, so I chipped away some of the plastic sealant to look inside. There I found melted plastic and signs of arcing. I guess they were both toasted. But like I said the new parts will be here monday from CDI. The stator checked good resistance wise and all the other plugs from under the fly wheel did as well( not sure what all the components are called) but according to the book they're within spec. Thanks again guys, I love this website!!!!!!

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Just closing out this question. I wish more people would do this. So new rectifier and power pack installed finally after dropping a bolt down into the water jacket. Thank god for shop vac's. Went out to crank her up this morning and she threw a lazy routine as usual. Finally got her up and running. Idles smooth but has a little cough occaisionally ( will Troubleshoot that with a timng light and these forums.) gave it a little gas and she straightened right out. Turned out pretty good I guess.

 

[j_k_bisson]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Um you check out the Stator when you did everything? They normally are the culprit that causes this mess. Just hoping you don't have to buy new PP and Rect due to a bad Stator......

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Yeah, it ohm checked fine. I'm not brave enough to DVA it at the connectors. The connections are under the power pack which is partially obstructed by the fly wheel. Is there another way to check that without risking my fingers or wiring harness?

 

[j_k_bisson]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Look for melted black goo on the top of your block under the flywheel! There is two or three rings of copper wire on the stator that are encased in black stuff. It seems that when they go, or are about to, they (the stator) leak/melt the black stuff off the stator and it drips on the top of the block. When you see that you start testing the stator.

Those stator leads that seam short, are actually longer. They are tucked up under the power pack or the plastic housing. You need to unbolt a few things at the top and they will come out with a little tug. At lest they did on mine, but it is an 87 200/225....

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Thanks for the tip! I wrestled with the leads when I pulled the PP and rectifier trying to test them the Stboard one is pretty long but the port side is short as heck. I rubbed my knuckles raw on the fly wheel while testing those. How difficult is it to replace the stator? Have you ever done that? I will read up on that in the meantime. Not much difference from what I understand between a 87 and an 89.
I'm not sure if you saw earlier in this post about some of that crud on the engine block. It has been there since I got the boat and since my recent repairs showed the rectifier had been replaced atleast once before I got it, and because it checked fine resistance wise I only concluded that the stator had gone bad once before as well. However, I will pull the PP again and see if I can jury-rig some sort of leads to DVA. This is my first motor and boy did I pick a good one to learn on!

 

[j_k_bisson]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Actually yes you picked a good one to learn on. Limited sensors = limited things that could go wrong....

Actually the only thing different in the stators is yours has the slow feature some how in the stator and mine does not. Or so I have been told....

THe stator is quite easy to change if you have the tools. You will need a flywheel puller a large socket to take the nut off (1-1/8" i think). Everything else is small bolts and screws. The stator is a plug and play. Whatch Ebay for a good new one. They some times come up cheap! That is where I go mine for $100-$180, can't remember..

Good luck and do test it throwly. I would hate for you to have to replace the power pack and reticfier parts again.

 

[wutevvvver]

Re: 89 Evinrude 200 Powerpack

Your not the only one that would hate it. My old lady would probably kill me! I started looking for a spare/replacement yesterday, holy crap are those things expensive! I may be off the water for awhile if this thing tests bad voltage wise. Thanks again for your insight! I am very grateful.