89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
9
Hello all, I have recently purchased a bass boat with a 1989 Johnson GT 200. I purchased the boat to help my friend out that has been unemployed for almost a year now.
When I was checking out the motor at home, I have found that I am only getting spark on the two center cylinders. The four outside corner plugs do not discharge.
Compression test shows strong and even readings on all six cylinders.
I have not picked up a manual yet for a diagnostic proceedure. Has anybody had this type of issue before? Any advice?
Thank you in advance
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

I assume that you're checking the spark with the spark plugs removed and are using a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. If not, do so.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Compression shows strong..... Exactly what were the compression readings on all cylinders?

With everthing as it should be, a slow cranking engine will have weak erratic or no spark..... that engine must crank over at least 300 rpms at cranking speed in order for the stator to provide the proper voltage to the powerpack, needed to energize the powerpack.

If the engine crnaks over fast with the electric starter as it should, and the spark is still weak, check all connectors, their pins and sockets within those rubber plugs, etc. Also inspect the stator under the flywheel.... if it is cracked in any area and/if it is dripping a substance down upon the timer base and powerhead area, that would cause a voltage drop to the powerpack, in which case, replace it.
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

You need a fully charged, powerful battery to generate enough charge to get good spark - engine should turn 300+ RPM. Test for spark with all of the plugs out and grounded - use a spark test device. You should get a spark that jumps a 7/16" gap with a sharp blue spark.

Check all ground connections, especially those on the 6 ignition coils.

Here's a link to Bill Kelly's wiring diagram for your engine: http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pics/wiring/1988_89_200_225.jpg

Troubleshooting guide: http://cdielectronics.com/downloads...linder 1988-2000 185-250 HP (Quick-Start).pdf
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
9
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

Im sorry, I am new to this forum I should have been more informative.
I used a spark tester, mine is the type that can be adjusted for gap. Im not sure the exact distance of the test gap but I will re-run the test and set for 7/16 gap. I installed a new battery with 850 cca. This batt was spinning the motor pretty fast but I did not note the cranking RPM. I did have all plugs removed when testing, but I did not ground all the plug wires during the test.
The compression readings on all cylinders was between 82 and 90. I am told that this motor is somewhat a low compression motor. The motor has been sitting for two years and I just got my hands on it. I do plan to grab a manual this weekend and Im sure I will have to go through every connection bow to stern.
Thank you guys again for your advice, and useful links. I will keep you guys posted on the results of the new test
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
9
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

Im sorry, I am new to this forum I should have been more informative.
I used a spark tester, mine is the type that can be adjusted for gap. Im not sure the exact distance of the test gap but I will re-run the test and set for 7/16 gap. I installed a new battery with 850 cca. This batt was spinning the motor pretty fast but I did not note the cranking RPM. I did have all plugs removed when testing, but I did not ground all the plug wires during the test.
The compression readings on all cylinders was between 85 and 91. I am told that this motor is somewhat a "low compression motor". The motor has been sitting for two years and I just got my hands on it. I do plan to grab a manual this weekend and Im sure I will have to go through every connection bow to stern.
Thank you guys again for your advice, and useful links. I will keep you posted on the results of the new test
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,321
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

You need a quality multimeter with a special DVA adaptor to TS CD ignition systems on outboards.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
9
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

Hello again. I have ran the tests and the power pack was at fault. I have also discovered that one of the six coils was also bad. With all the defective parts replaced, I now have a good hot blue spark jumping a 7/16 gap on all six, WOOHOO !!
Now onto the next problem. When I removed the air cleaner from the carbs there was a lot of oil puddled up in the lower section. On closer inspection I have noticed several hoses attached to the carbs and the VRO pump have loose zip ties. Many of them the zip tie are not at the very end of the hose and several was even broken. My next step is to start at the tank and replace all fuel and oil hoses including the primer balls for each.
I will also pull each carb and do a good cleaning.
I am thinking that maybe one or more floats stuck causing the carbs to overflow into the air cleaner.
The oil is very thick in the air cleaner, and no telling how long it has been there. The boat had been sitting for about two years.
Also, when spinning over the motor, it sounds to me like the starter has a " gravely" sound. Im wondering if I can service the gear reduction system for the starter. It spins pretty fast but just sounds loud to me.
I have not received my manual yet but should have it soon.
Again thank you all for your good sound advice.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

Get rebuild kits for the carbs, install them one at a time, don't pull them all apart at once. They're about $24 each, thats cheaper than paying $100 to have each one done.

You ought to go through everything,

change the lower gear oil and use new seals on the drain screws.

Pull the prop and clean fishing line off the shaft ( it cuts the prop seal).

New cone fuel filter on the engine ( $6)

Install a water seperator for sure.
Make sure all elec connections are clean and shiny, use a file or sandpaper.
Electronics spray cleaner on multi plugs around the power pack and seal with a bit of dialectric grease. Get the CRC spray brand from Nappa, good stuff.

check the coils and wires for cracks.

Drain the tank if necessary to get rid of old fuel/water.
Get your parts right here on iBoats.
Ask the previous owner when he did the water pump impellor.

I think with the plugs out and the hood removed, air box off the carbs , it can sound a bit loud cranking over. Button it all up and its a lot quieter.

Compression is good for a big bore engine,

so, after everything is done..
try seafoam to get any carbon out of the cylinders, using the old plugs, then install new sparkplugs after decarbing.
You'll probably find the compression goes up after that.
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: 89 Johnson GT 200 ignition problem

You might want to redo the clamps on all of your fuel lines with the correct parts. The originals are special ties with curved faces that fit the contour of the hoses. To get them tight enough you need a tool.

Tie strap is part # 0320107; they can be purchased from your dealer in packs of 100.
 

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