'89 MerCruiser trim sending unit issues/advice needed

[TurboJet]

Hi all,

Working on an '89 Merc 3.0L and am replacing the trim sender/limit switches on the outdrive.

I hit a small snag where I need to remove the wire retaining "plate" that sandwiches the wires/seal against the transom.

All the instructions I have read show a "C" clip looking retaining plate with 1 bolt.

This unit has an oval-ish shaped plate with 2 bolts and the upper bolt is not accessible unless I remove the part (sorry i don't know what the proper name of this is) that holds the bell housing in place. (The part that turns with the steering, like a steering knuckle?)

It has a large flat blade looking bolt at the bottom with a coter pin in it and 2 upper bolts which appear to be squeezing a pinion like assembly.

1st, what is the proper name of the hardware that piviots that the bell housing is attached to?

2nd, how do I remove the above mentioned piece so I can access the wire retaining plates 2nd bolt?

Is there a reason this merc drive has a wire retainer with 2 bolts instead of 1?

Any advice helps!

 

[alldodge]

1st, what is the proper name of the hardware that piviots that the bell housing is attached to?

Upper and lower pivot pins, and Gimbal Ring

2nd, how do I remove the above mentioned piece so I can access the wire retaining plates 2nd bolt?

Is there a reason this merc drive has a wire retainer with 2 bolts instead of 1?
[/QUOTE]

You have what most call a Pre Alpha or R/MR drive. The older drives used two bolts and is about impossible to remove the one without removing the upper pivot pin, or making a tool to get to the upper bolt (bend a wrench with heat). The two hole part is no longer available (item 39 and 40).

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30872/2203/30

The two hole part has been replaced by (item 11) 54-12078 CLAMP

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30858/1017/40

Maybe Bt Doctur or Bondo can assist

 

[TurboJet]

Thanks for the reply AllDodge

After some patience and trial and error, I was able to remove the upper bolt without dropping the gimbal ring.

I did though, have to remove the drive line bellow for more room.

The tool that actually "broke the seal" was a 1/4" mini-breaker bar and stubby 1/4" - 7/16 socket.

After it was broke free, I used the "S" shaped wrench (in the pic) to work it backwards.

After there was no more room to use the larger wrench (no room to fit the head on the bolt), I broke a 7/16 box wrench to get the final way out.

What a drag!

Is it ok to leave the upper bolt out?

Should I fill the bolt hole with silly-cone?

Thanks again for the reply

 

[alldodge]

Is it ok to leave the upper bolt out?

Unable to say for sure but I would only do it IF you get the newer clip. Your clip is cut on the side, then newer one is cut on the end and a bit thicker

Should I fill the bolt hole with silly-cone?

No, you want it clean at dry, the rubber ends will do the work. Silicone doesn't last and is also slick when wet

 

[TurboJet]

Thanks again AllDodge

I dont mean filling the "wire hole" with silicone, I meant if I left the upper bolt out of the upper hole, should I fill it with silicone

I may try to get the bolt back in there while I can with the U-joint bellows out.

Any advice on other repairs while I have the bell housing off and bellows removed?

I have a new outdrive gasket and bellows with bellows adhesive on the way...

I also got some synthane bell hosing washers headed in.

Thanks again

 

[alldodge]

OH, OK got it.
If you get the correct clamp, then if this is a trailer boat, then using silicone in the unused bolt hole would be good. Could also spry paint it, and that should be good.

If boat sits in the water, then use some 3M 4200 (not 5200) and seal the hole.

While the bell is off, check out how much play you have on the steering pins. These are the ones in the top and bottom of the gimbal ring. The U-bolt on top is torqued to 50 FT LBs. If you have any side to side sloop your going to need to get the ring worked on and maybe upper pin bushing and seal