89 V.P. 305 Ignition?

[oasisinvader]

I have an 89 Invader 265, has the Volvo-Penta chev. 305 v-8, with a 280 outdrive. In neutral, it will idle great, run up over 6,000 no problem. Put it in gear, and it bogs down at about 2500 to 3000 rpm. Will not get up on plane. I have completely replaced the fuel system, to include new carb, new water fuel seperators, new lines, new fuel pump, and checked the pickup in the tank, all is well. Also replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and coil. Distributor is factory electronic ignition, so, no points. Also prop is correct for the boat. I am wondering if I have the wrong coil on there. The coil is stamped "use with external resistor", and I am wondering if I am suffering a voltage drop under load that is preventing the motor from working right. Also, motor does not sputter, or pop under load, just will not get on plane, or rev over 2500-3000 when underway.
I replaced the coil with the internally resisted coil. No change, still will not get over 2,500-3,000 r.p.m.s, and will not get up on plane.

PROBLEM SOLVED:
Turns out I did have the wrong propeller. The boat had a 14X21 prop on. Put on a 15X17, and now it runs out fine. Takes a bit to get on plane, but once on plane it will cruise at about 30 mph, (according to speedo), at 3,500 r.p.m.s. May go to less pitch for better out of the hole, but, for a boat that sat for 9 years before I put it in the water, all I can say is WOW!

 

[captmello]

Re: 89 V.P. 305 Ignition?

Welcome to Iboats.

I was trying to think of some more parts you could throw at the problem but can't think of any.

Has the boat ever performed better since you've owned it?

First you should not be revving the engine in neutral. It is not a good test of anything and is hard on the engine.

The coil is interesting, most electronic ignitions do not use a ballast resister which is what the coil markings are referring to, so if there is not a resister you should be okay. However I've been wrong before.

what prop are you running on that boat.

I assume you've checked the throttle cable to confirm its opening the butterflies correctly. You could also make sure your timing is advancing correctly as the RPM's increase.

Have a look at this link. Go through it, may help you out.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=295070

Let us know what happens.

 

[dubs283]

Re: 89 V.P. 305 Ignition?

coild used on electronic ignitions are resisted internally

there should be 12 (+) volts supplied to the coil (+) side, unlike a points ignition coil which needs about 10 (+) volts while the engine is running

you will need to buy a coil that is internally resisted and the ignition system will be working properly, your local Volvo dealer is the best place to start

 

[captmello]

Re: 89 V.P. 305 Ignition?

coild used on electronic ignitions are resisted internally

there should be 12 (+) volts supplied to the coil (+) side, unlike a points ignition coil which needs about 10 (+) volts while the engine is running

you will need to buy a coil that is internally resisted and the ignition system will be working properly, your local Volvo dealer is the best place to start

Please forgive me for passing on bad info. Would you explain the difference? I don't understand, I thought the resistance was there to keep from burning up the points. So remove the ballast resister with the electronic ignition because the they don't care if they get full 12V. Why then the resistor coil?

 

[dubs283]

Re: 89 V.P. 305 Ignition?

will actually burn up the coil primary windings and cause problems

the coil is internally resisted to eliminate the external resistor wire in the wiring harness

i'm not sure why it is different for electronic igniton, but i can only assume it was to have less problems trying to troubleshoot engine wiring harness issues by removing the resistor wire for the coil