8hp Johnson carb tuning float adjust help needed

[oldboat1]

kind of special. Need solid core wires, typically 7mm. I find it at NAPA, but I'm in a farming community (or surrounded by one), and think older tractors use that style.

 

[bcontento]

Well, it's not the plugs, wires or coils because I replaced them all. No change. Can't get it to idle without Feathering the choke. If I'm pulling the choke, I'm reducing the amount of air, correct? Wouldn't that mean that I'm already too lean? That would I think point to fuel delivery. Fuel pump diaphragm, carb float needle valve stuck, mixture screw too lean. Am I on the right track?

What do I do next?
Thx guys

 

[oldboat1]

new pump, so try adjusting mixture screw. If you want to test pump operation, use the primer bulb and see if you can keep it running without the choke.

 

[bcontento]

Ok, so I dialed the carb back to the way it was when it was idling but not throttling up. Seven or eight turns out on the idle mixture and turning the cam follower idle adjustment pretty far down. I got it back to idling nicely but no wide open throttle. I ran it around my Lake a bunch and couldn't get it wide open just like before. Unlike last time when it finally did kick itself over it didn't do that this time totally. However it almost did and I might have a Telltale indicator. I could feel it start to throttle up strongly but at the same time I could hear a distinct clicking. To me it almost sounded like what you hear when a spark plug arcs. The Click definitely coincided with a throttle change.

New plugs, new wires, new ignition coils. What's next in line for the ignition system? forgive my general ignorance with Outboards. I can rebuild a small block Chevy but these things are a bit foreign to me. Are their points? Timing?

 

[racerone]

There are no points and timing does not go out of adjustment.----Well , except for the flywheel key, check to see if it is sheared as that does knock out the timing.----Perhaps run it at night to look for a spark somewhere.

 

[bcontento]

Is it possibly something else inline with the ignition. Power pack, charge coil, rectifier, etc ? I'm just listing the parts I see in the diagram. I'll try the night time run. Good idea.

Again, big thanks!

 

[oldboat1]

Recommend Champion plugs, gapped at .030. There's a choice for that motor (L77JC4 is one).

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Are all of the wires in good condition? ie: none of the jacketing is stripped/frayed?

 

[bcontento]

Pulled the flywheel and the key is fine. Put it back together. I pulled the top plug wire and started it. It idled noticeably worse. I put that one back and pulled the bottom plug wire and started it. I immediately heard arcing. The retaining clip that I believe attaches the ground leads on the bottom coil we're arcing. I think that not having the plug wire attached forced the spark to try to find an exit. I thought I may have figured it out! I adjusted that retainer to be farther from the spot it was arcing, reattached the plug wire and fired it up. No change.

In the process, I sheared the bottom of the pull starter spool!

I took it out at night to see if I could spot where it was arcing/clicking but it didn't happen.

While it was bogging (WOT), I squirted some fuel and it got worse. To me that indicates it's already getting too much fuel.

 

[bcontento]

I read a post somewhere that a guy had similar issues and it was plugged up exhaust system. Is that worth looking into? And as added info, back when this happened FIRST (over a year ago before doing any carb rebuilding, etc.), the motor ran great and then it didn't. We were out running it wide open and all of a sudden, this started. I messed with it just a bit back then to try to resolve it, but never did. Then, this year, started the process of getting it back in order. Thought maybe that part of the story (when and how it happened) might help ID the culprit.

 

[bcontento]

I think i've got it! New fuel lines, fresh gas, inline fuel filter and rebuilt carb again after really good cleaning, soaking, using copper wire to chase the passages, blowing it out with air, new float. Got it all back together and set the mixture screw to 1.5 turns out (removed the spring to get an idea of where that was to start). I set the idle speed screw right where the cam roller makes contact with the mark.

VROOOM! I was flying around the lake again!

moral of the story: buy at least 2 carb rebuild kits because unless you are a pro, you'll need to do it again after pulling all of your hair out trying to figure out your issue.

thanks all for the help!

 

[JohnnyGuy]

I think i've got it! New fuel lines, fresh gas, inline fuel filter and rebuilt carb again after really good cleaning, soaking, using copper wire to chase the passages, blowing it out with air, new float. Got it all back together and set the mixture screw to 1.5 turns out (removed the spring to get an idea of where that was to start). I set the idle speed screw right where the cam roller makes contact with the mark.

VROOOM! I was flying around the lake again!

moral of the story: buy at least 2 carb rebuild kits because unless you are a pro, you'll need to do it again after pulling all of your hair out trying to figure out your issue.

thanks all for the help!

Glad to hear you got it going again.

You shouldn't have needed an all new carb kit again to complete your thorough reclean of the carb, perhaps just the welch plugs... either way, congrats!!!