92 OMC Cobra 4.3 doesn’t turn over or doesn’t run

Tacofan

Recruit
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
3
I bought a 28 year old boat and have been working through ALL the issues. So far I have replaced the slave solenoid; fixed improper wire connections including running the fuel pump through the relay that had at some point been bypassed and run to a manual on/off switch on the dash instead; new battery; new battery cables; new battery selector switch; new spark plugs (ACDelco MR43T) - wires are on order (Sierra Marine 18-8801); reset the electric choke that was stuck in a fully open position. I have made sure I’m getting spark at every plug location (set plugs to chart gap of .035). I checked the fuel system; fuel is clean, I get fuel to filter, through the filter, to the pump, through the pump, and to the Holley 2BBL carburetor fuel inlet; fuel sprays when at WOT to prime. I’ve reset the curb idle screw and the idle mix screws to the base settings. She’s currently in my driveway with the lower unit submerged in a tank with water above the inlets.

So here’s the problem(s). Yesterday I got her to start up and idle at ~600 rpm in neutral for about 10 seconds, several times. Smoothest, best sounding idle without any lurching or chugging in the whole ~3 weeks I’ve owned it. But then she would die out. No rev-up before dying, very little smoke (both improvements over what she was doing before). Pulled the plugs (pretty sure they were the wrong plugs), and they were all fouled. Cylinder 6 dumped a bit of gas when I pulled the plug. So I figure I’m getting too much fuel/not enough air. Adjust the curb idle screw to try to get higher RPM, wouldn’t turn over, so I adjusted it back. Did the same thing - starts, runs great at a ~600rpm idle for a few seconds, dies. I notice that it’s also dumping fuel into the oil because is starts bleeding out of my dipstick from the pressure build up. I again assume this means I’m getting too much fuel and it has nowhere to go, so it just drains into the oil 🙄. At some point she just stops turning over. Cranks, but bogs down in rhythm, so I assume it’s an issue with one of the cylinders maybe not getting spark? Or maybe a compression issue (that I don’t have the tools nor the knowledge to test). Probably cylinder 6 since that is the one that seems to accumulate fuel every so often? (Or is that because the boat is parked on an incline, and cylinder 6 is the furthest back therefore the lowest)? I can pull the plug on 6, place on the block to ground, in the wire, and it sparks in sequence without bogging down like it does when it’s installed. She now just refuses to actually turn over. Sounds like it’s putting strain on the starter when it bogs.

Ignition wiring setup: NEG cable grounded to block. POS cable goes to battery selector switch; then to slave solenoid; then to starter solenoid. All other wires have been run to match schematics I’ve found through this iboats. EXCEPT, the cable from the slave to the starter solenoid has another, smaller wire running from the slave to another post on the starter solenoi; instead of one wire from slave to starter solenoid, then a jump wire on the starter solenoid itself. Not sure if or how much of a problem this is, since it had been turning over fine 🤷🏻‍♂️.

I am running out of patience, money, and motivation. The seller got her to fire up and run for a bit (trailered) by activating the “fuel pump switch” on the dash, and putting it in gear to idle at ~1,000rpm. Knowing literally nothing about boats at the time, I believed him when he said that was normal 🤦🏻‍♂️. So yes, I got taken for a ride and I’m sure he laughed all the way to the bank, and here I’m stuck with a boat that doesn’t run, and I’m running out of summer. I don’t know what to do next to try to fix it.
 

southkogs

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 7, 2010
Messages
14,978
We'll start with "Welcome Aboard."

Step 1: ditch the tank. You need to run the stern drive on muffs. You can't submerge the drive enough to get the water you need to cool the drive in a tank like that.

Step 2: Check the local auto parts store to see if they rent a compression tester. Test compression.

Step 3: Evaluate the boat: depending on how much you have into it, do a gut check. I don't know the Cobra drive well enough, but OMC has been gone for a long time. If the hull needs a bunch of work, and the engine needs a bunch of work ... might be time to cut bait.

Step 4: I would pull the stern drive until you get the engine running. Again, not knowing the Cobra, I believe it's possible that the drive could be jacked up and causing your engine to not run correctly. Pulling the drive kind of eliminates that variable.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,343
Welcome aboard.

'kogs has you on the right path, here are a few more things

if you have tried running from a tub for any lenght of time more than 10 seconds, you have burned up the impeller

you are dealing with a cobbled together mess you are dealing with due to the prior owner frankensteining the boat with a "fuel pump switch" most likely its not a proper electric fuel pump. your motor should have a mechanical fuel pump

your motor is hydrolocking. its not boging down, you have either fuel or water in a cylinder

the motor and drive are the least of your worries. being a 1992 boat (that has an OMC in it) my guess this is a bayliner or a four winns. most likely the hull has a rotten transom and rotten stringers. you will want to do a few test drills to check.
 

Tacofan

Recruit
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
3
Thanks for the feedback so far.

I’ll put her back on the muffs. New plug wires haven’t arrived yet, but doing some further inspecting it looks like it needs a new distributor cap and rotor, too. I though I’d be dealing with a points ignition, but it turns out it’s some bizarre Prestolite distributor that they (supposedly) don’t make anymore. I found a video showing how to check wether the electronic pickup inside the distributor is functioning, so I plan to check that out today.

The boat is a 19’ Dixie. Glass is in pretty good shape; floor is solid and the stringers and transom seemed fine when tapping around with a screwdriver, but I’ll do some drill tests to be sure.

The electric fuel pump looks like a factory application, and is (now) wired up in accordance with wiring schematics I’ve found online for this era OMC 4.3.

What do you suppose is causing the hydro-locking? I’m sure you are correct because of the fuel that has spilled out of the #6 plug hole a couple of times that I’ve pulled the plugs. Could this be a result of insufficient spark or too rich mixture? A carburetor issue, perhaps?
 

froggy1150

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
861
Stuck float? Ditch the fuel feed to the carb and see if you can run it by feeding it gas. I use a metal oil pump can for drilling with gas in it. You can squeeze the handle and meter what the engine needs. Thats how i start beasts that need incentive. And the metal can is relatively safe. Have a fire extinguisher handy when dealing with gas.
 

PITBoat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Messages
286
...Cylinder 6 dumped a bit of gas when I pulled the plug... I notice that it’s also dumping fuel into the oil because is starts bleeding out of my dipstick from the pressure build up. I again assume this means I’m getting too much fuel and it has nowhere to go, so it just drains into the oil 🙄. At some point she just stops turning over. Cranks, but bogs down in rhythm, so I assume it’s an issue with one of the cylinders maybe not getting spark? Or maybe a compression issue (that I don’t have the tools nor the knowledge to test). Probably cylinder 6 since that is the one that seems to accumulate fuel every so often? (Or is that because the boat is parked on an incline, and cylinder 6 is the furthest back therefore the lowest)? I can pull the plug on 6, place on the block to ground, in the wire, and it sparks in sequence without bogging down like it does when it’s installed. She now just refuses to actually turn over. Sounds like it’s putting strain on the starter when it bogs...

...your motor is hydrolocking. its not boging down, you have either fuel or water in a cylinder

Stuck float?...

That's what I thought; needle valves not seating; that'll put gas into the oil if I'm not mistaken
 

Tacofan

Recruit
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
3
I’ll check the float and the PV. In the meantime, I discovered that the engine oil dipstick tube has been replaced at some point with some random automotive dipstick and tube. I noticed, because oil pressure popped it out of the pan. It’s also cracked, near the spot where it was seated into the pan, so I don’t want to put it back in there. The problem I’m having is finding an OEM or similar dipstick and tube set. Can’t seem to locate it anywhere online. Any recommendations on how to fix this issue? (It is not threaded). Link to a good, flexible “universal” marine tube and stick?
 

Kingmt01

Cadet
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
26
I'd get that gas out of your oil. Your terms are confusing but sounds like you've already damaged the engine.
 
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