Re: 93 mercruiser 4.3 choke
sorry this is a little lengthy.
the choke rod shouldn't go down into the engine, it attaches to the back of the electric choke coil, an older type will attach to a "Choke Stove" Coil that sits on the Intake Manifold. ( I prefer the older version )
the coil could not work if its not getting 12v when the engine is running or KEY is on. ( good reason to not leave key on when not using the engine )
The coils can also stop working, 3 screws and 3 small tabs on the screws are all that needs to be removed to remove the coil. coils can be reversed if the tab is pointing in the wrong direction and need to be set in the proper position to close the choke properly and open at the correct amount when the engine is warming up.
If the choke is set to tight, the engine will run rough or flood out, too loose and it will require multiple throttle pumps to start or keep running.
There is small cylinder that the lever of the choke and coil attach to, behind the plate behind the coil, this can sometimes bind up. removing and cleaning with a brillo pad, or fine steel wool does the trick.
The choke needs to be "SET" when you first start the engine, unlike fuel injected engines you need to "pump" the throttle to at least 1/2 way the first start, sometimes all the way and if the carb is set right, only ONCE else you can flood the engine causing it to not start or blow black smoke (unburned fuel)
If the choke is opened when the engine is warm, and you have to re-start, you shouldn't need to "pump" the throttle, especially if the engine was just shut off. If you do it can mean the "idle Mixture" setting isn't right or the carb needs to be cleaned/rebuilt.
the only part that usually needs to be replaced is the choke coil.