'94 Johnson 112 spl, no water from telltale

[huck199]

This spring we purchased a '94 Wellcraft Excel 20' open bow runabout, It ran great on 4 or 5 outings. Last week we were running up on plane and motor cut out. It would restart and idle fine as well as run at low speeds. As soon as you throttle up and plane off it died again. I took it out of the water and replaced water pump impeller. Runs good on hose but no water from telltale. I removed engine cover and checked line to telltale for obstructions. No obstructions but I realized that the line goes from discharge fitting in base of cowel but is not hooked to anything. I am not sure where it gets connected?? I ran the motor and the block is getting water and staying cool but no water is spraying out of anywhere to show me where to hook hose from telltale. Any help would be appreciated??

 

[racerone]

The plastic elbow is shown in the parts book.-----It shows it on the exhaust cover near the # 3 cylinder.-------But who knows what the previous owner did.----------Some motors do not get much water out the telltale on a hose.------Perhaps that has to do with dissolved air in your local water supply.--------After all pressurized water dissolves / holds more air than water in the lake.

 

[batman99]

What is make / model of engine? Have your searched U-Tube for instructions to replace its water pump impeller?

 

[huck199]

racerone - I'll look for the parts diagram again online, thank you. batman99 - It is a '94 Johnson 112spl, yes I've looked on youtube and all of the vids show water flowing steady from the telltale on both a hose/muffs as well as when in the water. I just can't figure out where the telltale hose should come from...

 

[emdsapmgr]

Some folks added a water pressure gauge to the dash. They may have routed that gauge hose direct to the hose barb for the telltale-in place of the current telltale hose. Once you plumb the gauge that way some don't see a need for a telltale connected anymore. I run mine that way.

 

[huck199]

Now that you say that, it does have a pressure gauge on the dash. It looked factory so I haven't paid attention to it. What pressure should the gauge read?

 

[Woodbinekeith]

Mine is an '84 115hp. It has a small vertical connector coming about 1/2" up from the bottom of the engine. The hose slips over this and I put a clamp on it even though it has little "teeth" for grabbing. The hose runs up and over the starboard cylinders and then drops down to the telltale opening. It has a vertical connector that is part of the metal frame of the telltale opening. There are two metal "claws" on the inside that keep the hose in place when pushed onto the plastic connector. My hose is about 28" long. Not sure if this arrangement is stock but that's how it came to me and it does work.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Probably will idle between 4-5 lbs. You should see 18+ at wide open throttle.

 

[huck199]

Thank you! I'll try it as soon as this cold damp weather in central NY breaks!

 

[huck199]

Ok, There is a water pressure gauge so that explains that. We changed the impeller for good measure and the block is cooling (I can tell by touch and by the gauge) but it is still cutting out when I'm planed off?? It appears to be starved for fuel and the ball was 'deflated' after it cut out. It has a 30 gallon built in poly tank. I took the vent hose off tank end and blew it out w/ compressed air and it was clear. I also purchased a new gas line and bulb that I will switch out this morning. Any other thoughts if this doesn't do it? Thanks for any ideas!

 

[emdsapmgr]

Something's wrong with the hose bulb. It should not collapse on itself. The fact that is does collapse indicates the engine's inability to suck fuel through the line. The fuel pump is working, as it's sucked the fuel bulb shut, so you've got some sort of fuel blockage between the tank and the fuel pump. Not unusual for the ball valves inside the hose bulb to stick. Replacing the hose/bulb is a good idea. Hopefully this takes care of it. Keep in mind that hose bulb should be oriented so that the arrow on the side of it is generally in an upward direction. If it's laying downhill in the boat's splashwell, that can affect the operation of the ball vavles inside the bulb itself. If the bulb continues to collapse, then you've got some other fuel restriction to look for. Could be the anti-siphon valve at the tank is stuck, could be a problem with the fuel pickup inside the tank under the pickup head....

 

[huck199]

Thank you. I'll start with hose/bulb and a water test today.

 

[huck199]

Gas line from water separating fuel filter to the engine, including Bulb, replaced. Ran great for about 20 minutes then same thing, dies. It starts right back up and runs great at idle and a little higher rpm but as soon as I try to accelerate and plane off it dies. I have not changed fuel filter yet but plan to do so. It couldn't be that easy could it? What am I missing??

 

[emdsapmgr]

Some of these symptoms mimic a weak fuel pump. Next time the engine starts to slow down, have your first mate go to the stern and begin squeezing the fuel hose bulb. See what happens. If it runs fine at WOT as long as you constantly prime that bulb, you've got a fuel delivery problem to the engine. Try this test next time out. Could be a weak fuel pump. The engine may be draining the carb bowls faster than the pump can keep up....also may be a fuel tank pickup problem, or an anti-siphon valve fault.

 

[huck199]

Ok I checked the water separating fuel filter, no water in the gas. Then I got a new 3 gallon tank, filled it up and ran the motor directly off from that. The latest water test results: it ran great! I ran the 3 gallon tank dry on 2/3 to WOT with no issues! Tomorrow I will remove the onboard tank pick up tube, find a match and replace it. I think (and hope) that should solve my problems. Anything else anyone can think of? Thank you for all of your help so far guys!

 

[emdsapmgr]

When you are working on the original fuel tank, might as well take the anti-siphon valve apart. Check for debris around the ball valve. This can cause it to stick in position and not permit full fuel flow. The tank pickup tube can have these failures: the tube can get loose where it meets the tank head-causing it to suck air. The pickup tube and get debris in the tube and cause a restriction. The pickup tube can get holes in it an suck air when the fuel level gets below the hole in the pickup. I found a Band-Aid sucked up in a Mercruiser's fuel tank pickup-go figure that one..

 

[huck199]

Is changing out a fuel pump difficult? Is it something a 'do it yourself'r like me ca do relatively easy?

 

[huck199]

Oh and pick up tube removed, screen clear and no holes/leaks. How do I access the Amit-siphon valve? Thank you!