94' Suntracker pontoon 30' controls question

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griggsmars

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Hello, I have a 94 Suntracker pontoon 30' with a Force Mercury 120hp outboard w/ power trim. Last Fall the engine lost spark, and we began swapping out electrical parts with no luck. Eventually we had to haul the boat out of the water for the winter. After searching the forum for answers, it looks very possible it is a bad kill switch. The controls are Quicksilver and the screws are stripped on the back side where I would need to open up the assembly. My question is do I buy a new kill switch for the Quicksilver controls and fight to get them open and hope that it works, or do I buy a complete aftermarket set of controls? Anyone had this issue? Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you, Griggsmars
 

griggsmars

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Thank you for advise. I've attached a couple photos, the kill switch I have only has a black wire going in and black wire going out. Am I looking in the wrong spot? Thank you, Griggsmars
 

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legalfee

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From CDI:
NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow kill wire AT THE SWITCHBOX and retest. If the engine’s Ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift switch (if present). 2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the Regulator/Rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250 RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. This can be caused by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables, or a mechanical problem inside the engine. 4. Check the Stator resistance and DVA as given below: Black Stator using Flywheel with Bolted-In Magnets Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected) Blue(Low Speed Coil) Engine Gnd 5.8-7.0K Ω 2.2-2.4K Ω 180-400 V 180-400 V (*) Red (High Speed Coil) Engine Gnd 125-155 Ω 45-55 Ω 25-100 V 25-100 V (*) Black Stator using Flywheel with Glued-in Magnets Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected) Blue (Low Speed Coil) Engine Gnd 3.25-3.65K Ω 488-662 Ω 180-400 V 180-400 V (*) Red (High Speed Coil) Engine Gnd 75-90 Ω 28-32 Ω 25-100 V 25-100 V (*) Red Stator Kit Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected) White/Green (Stator) Green/White 500-700 Ω 400-550 Ω 180-400 V 180-400 V (*) Blue (Adapter Module) Blue (Adapter Module) Open - 180-400 V 180-400 V (*) Blue (Adapter Module) Engine Gnd Open Open 180-400 V 180-400 V (*) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a Stator (or Adapter Module) or Switchbox has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and the Stator’s DVA reading is low disconnect the Stator wires and recheck the DVA. If the reading stays low, the Stator is bad. If the reading is now within specification, the Switchbox is bad.
 

griggsmars

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You really know your stuff. I wish I could hire you to look at it. I'll check it out this eve. Thank you
 

legalfee

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You really know your stuff. I wish I could hire you to look at it. I'll check it out this eve. Thank you
Electronic Engineer. I'm self taught on these 2 stroke motors but I've learned a ton from Jerry and others on this site.
 

griggsmars

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Jun 10, 2010
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I don't believe is is the kill switch. I tested it by wiring it up to a bilge pump I had. The bilge did not run when the switch was in the ON position, but did run when it was in the OFF position as if the lanyard was pulled off. Not sure if it is a normal open or normal closed situation. Marine electronics is not my strong suit. My buddy already changed out the stator and voltage regulator, so I'll start checking the other things you spoke of. Thank you
 

GA_Boater

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You started the other thread and you keep posting in both places. This one is now closed.
 
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