95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

[jtcarter]

I've been fighting what i now know is a heat soak problem. I took it out today. It had some vent tubes behind the loovers so i took them off to see if getting more air in there would help. I ran maybe 5-6 miles up river. Fished for about a hour and a half. Restarted my motor and she spit and sneezed like usual. So i let it idle and get fresh gas in the carbs and it took off after maybe five minutes. I run back down lake and stop at another fishing hole. This time i take the cowl off and let the motor get fresh air around it to cool it off. Fished for maybe 45 minutes. Restarted and it ran like a dream, no spitting,no coughing idled great took the gas when i hit the peddle. Made one more stop did same thing took cowling off and fished restarted ran like a dream. Anyone ever thought of running some sort of fan or blower under these hoods to get more air. I may try it. I'am going to wear out my hinges taking my hood off and on all the time lol. But i'am happy i can now say exactly what problem i've been having. These 60% degree motors don't like the heat. Anyone having similar problems i know its a inconveince but it works. Its the only thing after three months of chasing it that works. I have also found a market that sells regular gas i'am working on my second tank of it and i'am still having to take my hood off.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

We used 1/4 inch nylon carb spacers on some racing engines we played with yrs ago, it isolated the metal carb body from the block heat and fixed that problem.

What about cutting an opening in the front of the cowl and install a baffle or naca style air inlets on the side, then just direct the air where you need it.

Anutha idea, open the top of the cowl to let the heat escape when the boat stops, a couple of inches square on the carb side with stainless mesh.

Isn't there an aftermkt solution available already?

 

[jtcarter]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

We used 1/4 inch nylon carb spacers on some racing engines we played with yrs ago, it isolated the metal carb body from the block heat and fixed that problem.

What about cutting an opening in the front of the cowl and install a baffle or naca style air inlets on the side, then just direct the air where you need it.

Anutha idea, open the top of the cowl to let the heat escape when the boat stops, a couple of inches square on the carb side with stainless mesh.

Isn't there an aftermkt solution available already?

I don't know if there is or not. I had thought it was the fuel pump all along. But after today i really think that heat soak is to blame. I need to find a way to get air under there for sure . It has loovers at the sides on the top. I thought that would be enough if i took those tubes off it had behind them. That wasn't enough to fix it apparently. Its the weirdest thing i've ever run into. I know alot of marine machanic's they're wanting me to go to a fuel pump instead of vro.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

A couple of things come to mind.

1. The amount of alcohol in your local fuel lowers the vapor pressure causing quicker evaporation at temps, contributing to this 'heat soak'. Have you tried repriming with the primer bulb to refill the carbs before restarting to see if that makes a difference? If it does then an electric fuel pump may be a viable option.

2. Trim angle, leaving the engine trimmed up causes a small float level difference, try leveling, trim down before turning the engine off to see if that makes any difference on the restart. WARNING only bring it down to level, tucked under with a negative trim could allow any carb leaking to flood the motor instead of pooling into the air silencer an recirculating during operation as designed to do with any positive trim.

Sneezing is caused by a lean mixture, dirty air bleeds, low float/fuel level are the usual culprits. Try both of the above and repost with your findings.

 

[jtcarter]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

A couple of things come to mind.

1. The amount of alcohol in your local fuel lowers the vapor pressure causing quicker evaporation at temps, contributing to this 'heat soak'. Have you tried repriming with the primer bulb to refill the carbs before restarting to see if that makes a difference? If it does then an electric fuel pump may be a viable option.

2. Trim angle, leaving the engine trimmed up causes a small float level difference, try leveling, trim down before turning the engine off to see if that makes any difference on the restart. WARNING only bring it down to level, tucked under with a negative trim could allow any carb leaking to flood the motor instead of pooling into the air silencer an recirculating during operation as designed to do with any positive trim.

Sneezing is caused by a lean mixture, dirty air bleeds, low float/fuel level are the usual culprits. Try both of the above and repost with your findings.

Tried all of the above. It never changes it when you trim it down. Floats are not the problem. Went through carbs no trash. I've thought about hooking a pressure gauge to it. Just to see if it has low pressure or a fuel restriction. I'am about at the point i'am ready to get rid of the vro. As far as repriming it, it helps the motor recover faster thats about it. It won't stop it from sneezing. But i'am telling you,if you pull the cowl off it will run perfect. It sucks to have to do that all the time. But i will try a fuel pump before i give competely up on it. The bulb does go soft after awhile out in the sun. I've suspected a problem with the fuel pump side of the vro. But i'am not certain. I do have a vapor seperator rebuild kit ordered. It should be here monday or tuesday. I'am going to try that and if that fails then its a new fuel pump. I'll post my results. I feel like i'am about to get this thing nipped in the bud. But its been a trying ordeal.

 

[woody66912]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

around those model years we had problems with trying to power load.if this is one of your symptoms also.we went one to two sizes smaller with the interment jets this would richen idle to off idle circuit.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

Richening the idle to just off-idle circuit sounds like an appropriate solution.

The heat soak is evaporating an amount of fuel, lowering the level in the carbs, causing a slightly lean idle condition while the engine is slightly cooler than operating temp and wanting a richer mixture, hense, the lean sneeze and poor throttle response until both the fuel pump refills the carbs and the engine warms.

 

[jtcarter]

Re: 95 175 evinrude intruder (stalling problem)solved somewhat.

Alright finally got back to the lake to do some checks. Boy it was a adventure. I vaccum tested the vro system today and here's what i come up with. At WOT the tester reads between 2 and 3 with spikes to three then falls back off never reached 4hg. That was on the fuel line to pump test. On the after pump to carburator test was always between 5-7 psi. Which my book says anything below 3 and there is a problem. So it looks like i might have a good vro pump. That test was easy to do. But i'll warn you keep your airbox on your motor because you have to run with the cowl off. Anyway something else. After i unhooked my vaccum gauge from the pump to carb line. My vapor pump started spitting fuel out of the small line that comes off the diaphragm and goes into the air box. The line from the pump to carbs i had to use a smaller zip tye and you could wiggle it but it wasn't leaking fuel. Could a tiny air leak cause that or is there a hole in that diaphragm. It cleared up after a minute or two also it didn't continue to spit fuel. Could the air that entered the system when i pulled the gauge off cause that. The diaphragm is fairly cheap i should probably just replace it.