'95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

[al2ride]

So I picked up this really nice and clean Chaparral 1830. This is my first sterdrive boat and I have a few questions:

(1) The weber 4 barrel (manifold choke) has some choke issues and it's hard to start after after stopping for more than 15 minutes. What is a good substitute for that carb that will fit the stock throttle link? I found rebuilt webers online with either manifold or electric choke, will the electric choke fit just right? I thought about going with a more reliable carter 2 barrel, but the intake manifold will also have to be changed. I researched the problem with this carb and it seems to be a design defect where the fuel leaks out of the bowls. I read that you can put an electric pump swicth, but couldn't find any instructions. I'm assuming it's a 12v supply to the pump via a toggle swith installed up front.

(2) Changed the oil, but couldn't remove the filter. I have a nice tool to change the filter on my Harley that fits over the filter perfectly and then you use a ratched to remove it. Is there one available for the size of the mercruiser filter? The one for the Harley is too big. The manual says it takes 4.5 quarts of oil (with filter change). I put 4 quarts since I couldn't swap filters and the stick shows overfilled. I checked both on trailer and in the water. I had to remove about 1/2 quart in order to get it between the marks. All the oil was removed by first pumping out of the dip tube and then removing the oil pan bolt.

(3) My cooling is raw water with an impeller in the drive and a pump in the engine. What is the container (reservoir) on the top port side of the engine for? It's not power steering since the pump has it's own reservoir, it's not the trim pump since it also has it's own reservoir, and it's not antifreeze. Not sure what the reservoir is for.

Thanks in advance.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

Howdy,

Welcome to Iboats!

(1) The weber 4 barrel (manifold choke) has some choke issues and it's hard to start after after stopping for more than 15 minutes. ...........

If it were me, I would rebuild(or replace with rebuilt) that carb

I read that you can put an electric pump swicth, but couldn't find any instructions. I'm assuming it's a 12v supply to the pump via a toggle swith installed up front.

That's "do-able" but to be safe, it must be wired using an oil pressure switch so it cannot run when the engine is not running (unless you're cranking the starter) There's nothing wrong with the mechanical pumps. (My last one went for 20+ years with no problems!)

(2) Changed the oil, but couldn't remove the filter. I have a nice tool to change the filter on my Harley that fits over the filter perfectly and then you use a ratched to remove it. Is there one available for the size of the mercruiser filter?

Most autoparts stores sell filter wrenches for different size filters. If that won't work use a pipe wrench or punch a hole in it and use whatever you can. DON'T tighten the new one more than required! (3/4 turn after gasket contact)

(3) What is the container (reservoir) on the top port side of the engine for?

That's the drive oil reservoir. It gravity/suction feeds to the GEN II drive on the back as the drive heats up and cools down.....

If you haven't changed the drive oil (Mercury HP Drive oil), you probably should.



If you want to be able to do regular maintenance, you might consider obtaining an OEM Mercury Service Manual for your engine and drive.

I also think there are kits to install electric fuel pumps but they're not cheap.

I am also considering an electric pump but it's because mine is mounted on the Bravo raw water pump drive. When the pump starts leaking fuel, it destroys the raw water pump bearings etc and makes everything VERY expensive to fix.

Yours doesn't really require anything other than replacing the pump. On yours I would probably stay with the mechanical pump.

Autozone and SCHUCKS/CHECKER/KRAGEN/Oreilly are Airtex and MASTER dealers. Airtex is the OEM manufacturer for Mercruiser mechanical pumps.


Cheers,


Rick

 

[al2ride]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

Howdy,

Welcome to Iboats!


If it were me, I would rebuild(or replace with rebuilt) that carb

It runs great once started, I had to go through a river at idle for about 45 minutes straight without a glitch, problem is starting it.

That's "do-able" but to be safe, it must be wired using an oil pressure switch so it cannot run when the engine is not running (unless you're cranking the starter) There's nothing wrong with the mechanical pumps. (My last one went for 20+ years with no problems!)

It already has an electric fuel pump, I was thinking of doing something to activate it before starting, you know like the prime button on other motors.



Most autoparts stores sell filter wrenches for different size filters. If that won't work use a pipe wrench or punch a hole in it and use whatever you can. DON'T tighten the new one more than required! (3/4 turn after gasket contact)

It looks like the previous owner crancked the heck out of it. I'll look for a wrench at the autoparts store

That's the drive oil reservoir. It gravity/suction feeds to the GEN II drive on the back as the drive heats up and cools down.....

So that's the oil for the drive? I thought it was a sealed drive. You have to fill it up from the bottom until all air comes out from the top whole. I'm used to outboards only...that's how I changed the oil on my 150 mariner

If you haven't changed the drive oil (Mercury HP Drive oil), you probably should.

Already have the pump and oil, but if I have to fill up a reservoir I'm going to have to get another quart or so.


If you want to be able to do regular maintenance, you might consider obtaining an OEM Mercury Service Manual for your engine and drive.

I downloaded the mercruiser #18, but it doesn't have anything on the drive or trim, etc. I ended up bying a solac from amazon...should be here soon.


Cheers,


Rick

See comments above

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

Whew! That was a hard read! It works better if you just click "QUOTE" at the bottom of the post and add your comments outside of the quoted text!


I would suggest against the Seloc. They're FREQUENTLY in error on a LOT of things.

It IS, technically a sealed drive, but the GEN-II's and Bravos have the reservoir.

It won't take an additional qt. maybe a cup or so. Make SURE you clean out the reservoir and ensure that the oil fitting from the drive to the gimbal will flow oil......


If you have not removed the drive to check the U-joints and drive bellows, you should.

AND if the previous owner didn't recently change the raw water pump you should do that too! Even if he said he did, don't believe him and change it anyway..... It's the #1 cause of overheats.....

So that's the oil for the drive? I thought it was a sealed drive. You have to fill it up from the bottom until all air comes out from the top whole. I'm used to outboards only...that's how I changed the oil on my 150 mariner


Already have the pump and oil, but if I have to fill up a reservoir I'm going to have to get another quart or so.



I downloaded the mercruiser #18, but it doesn't have anything on the drive or trim, etc. I ended up bying a solac from amazon...should be here soon.

 

[BAproject]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

You should be able to remove the oil filter by hand, if not they are readily available at any autoparts store. When you put it back on only hand tighten, then it's easier to remove the next time you change it

The carb.....hmmm....try rebuilding it, and adjust everything within spec (you will need a manual). If you "downgrade to a 2 bbl carb then there are other implications, including having to replace the intake manifold. If you do downgrade it won't be an "LX" anymore

That reservoir is extra oil for the drive. It should be full, but you may want to drop the lower unit, replace the impeller, and while your at it change the existing oil. When you go to refill the drive oil you have to do it thru the bottom of the drive and force all the air out thru the vent hole in the top of the drive. There are tons of manuals and advice readily available.

 

[al2ride]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

Whew! That was a hard read! It works better if you just click "QUOTE" at the bottom of the post and add your comments outside of the quoted text!


I would suggest against the Seloc. They're FREQUENTLY in error on a LOT of things.

It IS, technically a sealed drive, but the GEN-II's and Bravos have the reservoir.

It won't take an additional qt. maybe a cup or so. Make SURE you clean out the reservoir and ensure that the oil fitting from the drive to the gimbal will flow oil......


If you have not removed the drive to check the U-joints and drive bellows, you should.

AND if the previous owner didn't recently change the raw water pump you should do that too! Even if he said he did, don't believe him and change it anyway..... It's the #1 cause of overheats.....

Sorry about that
I've already ordered the Seloc...bought it primarily for the trim pump, and power steering system. I have the original mercruiser manual for the engine.

Thanks for pointing out the reservoir option. I'll have to see where the hose goes to, to make sure oil flows.

I haven't removed the drive. There is a boot that apears to surround the ujoints. According to the manual there is a service port somewhere to oil the joint. Do I have to remove the drive to check those, or just slip off the boot?

I have an impeller and thermos ordered. I suffered that overheating problem once on my mariner 150...never again.

You are right about previous owner saying they did everything. He said he had just changed the oil and when I looked at it, it was pretty dirty. I still can't figure out the correct amount of oil. Manual says 4.5 quarts. I put in 4 quarts since I couldn't swap out the filter and it was way high. I heard a bit of a knocking...probably a lifter since too much oil and probably bubbled into the lifter

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

I haven't removed the drive. There is a boot that apears to surround the ujoints. According to the manual there is a service port somewhere to oil the joint. Do I have to remove the drive to check those, or just slip off the boot?

I have an impeller and thermos ordered. I suffered that overheating problem once on my mariner 150...never again.

You are right about previous owner saying they did everything.

They always do!

When you pull the impeller, you may have to replace the housing too....

Also, if a previous impeller failure may have allowed fragments to go downstream. If you have power steering, the pieces may be lodged there or in the t-stat housing.


You MUST pull the drive to check the u-joints (they'll have zerk fittings on them probably) and gimbal bearing. If it's leaking you'll have to replace the bellows. If there was a lot of water in there you might do the gimbal bearing now instead of later.


While you're at it you can do the exhaust bellows too although it's not as critical.

You can buy a complete transom service kit that includes gaskets, o-rings, (both) bellows and gimbal bearing

 

[al2ride]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

They always do!

When you pull the impeller, you may have to replace the housing too....

Also, if a previous impeller failure may have allowed fragments to go downstream. If you have power steering, the pieces may be lodged there or in the t-stat housing.


You MUST pull the drive to check the u-joints (they'll have zerk fittings on them probably) and gimbal bearing. If it's leaking you'll have to replace the bellows. If there was a lot of water in there you might do the gimbal bearing now instead of later.


While you're at it you can do the exhaust bellows too although it's not as critical.

You can buy a complete transom service kit that includes gaskets, o-rings, (both) bellows and gimbal bearing

I ordered the entire impeller kit and also have the oil and pump to refil the drive. Not sure if I'm going to tackle removing the entire drive myself or taking it somewhere since I will also like to check engine alignment. I will need to buy the alignment tool to do so.

I think I'm going to go ahead and rebuild my weber. The manifold choke thermo is trashed, but I did find it online. Has anyone converted their manifold choke to electric choke?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: '95 4.3LX Alpha One Gen II Questions

You could probably convert it.

I have an electric choke on mine.

But I don't boat in cold weather so I disconnected it and adjusted it open. I don't really have any problem with it at all. Myengine is closed cooled though and stays warm for quite some time after shutdown and warms up quickly.

You live in "The land of the endless summer". you could probably wire it open and call it good unless you boat in the "dead" of winter......when it's 75*F