95 force 5hp prop won't spin

Cherokee-Runabout

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
90
A few days ago I was worried that my motor was overheating after it had cut out on me one day .I went forward and pulled the lower to inspect/ flush water tube and inspect impeller. In order to remove the impeller, it seemed stuck on, i oulled the drive shaft through the housing. Everything seemed to check out, impeller showed little wear and seemed to retain a good deal of elasticity as blades almost completely straightened out. I then hooked up a piece of tubing to the water tube and connected other end to garden hose nozzle on "jet" setting to flush out anything that may have been blocking the tube. I then reassembled everything and noticed that the shift lever on side of cowling was up a little higher for neutral than it was originally and I felt that this was a difference in where I had tightened the linkage and wasn't concerned because shifter rod seemed as though it was shifting between forward and neutral. I then noticed that the prop would not spin when in either neutral or forward. ( Shouldn't it spin freely in neutral?) I tried to run it and shift into forward after bokting everything up. No luck... I then tried to adjust shift back to normal positions. Once again it felt as though the gears we're engaging but once again no rotation in prop . I'm going to pull lower again and see if I can get it to function. Any suggestions on what may be the cause? Also any ideas on what may cause engine to cut out after 15 minutes of running at wot and emit white vapor ( unsure of smoke or steam) from lower (maybe carbon )? It was in the mid to upper 80s that day and I was running the motor against a decent flow. Thanks again!
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,075
Sounds like you didn't adjust the linkage right.

The steam could be just a normal thing?? Maybe not.

Your motor shouldn't have a thermostat and if?? the impeller is good and nothings blocking the system,
it shouldn't get too hot.
Start the motor and get it up to temp.
The head around the plug will be pretty hot but away from there
you should be able to keep your fingers on it without burning \.

I bought a heat gun 16$ one of the best tools in my tool box.

If you have the impeller out?? CHANGE IT!!
It's not that expensive and then you'll know it's good.
Find the Sierra 18-3073 it's way cheaper than the OEM
 

Cherokee-Runabout

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
90
I have a temp gun just uncertain of what normal temp should be. I bought a Sierra impeller and my intention was to change it . Unfortunately I ordered it before I dropped lower and new impeller was WAY too big. Mine has about 8 fins and is roughly 1" in diameter. I'm going to pull lower again, hopefully this evening, and try to adjust linkage. And just clarify, in neutral the prop should freely spin correct? Thanks for your time, you guys have resolved many headaches .
 

Cherokee-Runabout

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
90
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER46-819026A+1

link to pump + housing kit. I can't seem to find a Sierra replacement .the impeller itself is $92.... Half tempted to try to pick up another Craigslist special for these prices .I also talked to a mechanic and he said he was somewhat baffled by what I was deacribing. The drive shaft will freely spin by hand but the proo still won't budge in either neutral or forward even after I dropped lower again and move shift rod .It feels like the gears are engaging when shifting as I can feel the "pop" . When I did this on my 70hp Johnson '77 prop would freely spin in neutral, one way in reverse and one way in forward. At this point I'm starting to run out of ideas as to where the issue lies .
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,075
E-bay for the impeller, under 10$
18-3073 Sierra part #

The shift rod, the prop needs to be turning as you move it.
If you undid the rod and screwed it back in??? you could have dis lodged it?

The lower unit is fairly easy to take apart if you can't make the shaft move??

Temp: the motor has no thermo so the temp should be close to the temp of the water and add a few degrees.
I measure the side of the cylinders and the top edge of the head.
Remember the plug area gets real hot and should be disregarded.
 

Cherokee-Runabout

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
90
I didn't remove the shift rod, only the drive, but I do suppose that I may have rotated it which may affect linkage height? I did that on the 70 one time and started grinding the hell out of my gears 🙄 .needless to say it was an expensive lesson. Looks like I'm going to get rained out on work today so hopefully will have plenty of time to mess with it . I'm pretty sure that that's the one I purchased however it was way too big. Here is the one I need as well as an exploded diagram of my l/u. Image is from marine engine. I'll try to upload pics of mine once I compress the pictures . Also the cowling did seem quite aabit warmer than water temp but haven't been able to run since prop lock . Thanks again !
 

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Cherokee-Runabout

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
90
Busted out endoscope and ran through drive shaft .it appears that there is the pinion gear that has somehow been knocked loose and is blocking the prop shaft from turning. What's the best way to pull prop shaft without a puller and reinstall driveshaft and pinion ?
 
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