'96 Evinrude 200 wouldn't rev past 4k RPM

[Keyboardman]

Hi all, the engine was running fine for about 30 mins between 4500 and 5500, I slowed down to idle thru a No Wake zone for 10 mins then when accelerating back up, it was very slow to respond and would not go past 4000 rpm. The tachometer needle would occasionally drop down to zero and back up like it was losing it's signal? I turned back around, idled thru the No Wake zone again and once again, coming back up, it was slow to accelerate and wouldn't go past 4000. Same thing with the Tach jumping back and forth a couple of times. Then, after about 25 mins heading back home at 4000, it suddenly accelerated, and was able to rev back up like normal. I'm thinking a cyl wasn't firing? Could a coil be going bad? If so, could that cause the tach to jump like it did? The Tach dropping out makes me think it could be in the Power pack I'm not sure how to test it if that may be the problem. Thanks for any advise in advance.

 

[Crosbyman]

well first thing is to do a full physical inspection of components ( wiring, coils, etc...any burnt odors ?, how is engine cooling itself ? check PH with IR gun.
Pack could be developping a " hot" problem since it feeds the tach. and you see sudden drops to 0 !

more suggestions to come from Racerone and others

meanwhile here is an AI reply...
1996 200hp evinrude... the engine was running fine for about 30 mins between 4500 and 5500, I slowed down to idle thru a No Wake zone for 10 mins then when accelerating back up, it was very slow to respond and would not go past 4000 rpm. The tachometer needle would occasionally drop down to zero and back up like it was losing it's signal?

On a 1996 200 HP Evinrude FICHT, the combination of:

• Running normally at 4500–5500 RPM for 30 minutes
• Idling for 10 minutes in a no-wake zone
• Then refusing to accelerate beyond 4000 RPM
• Tachometer occasionally dropping to zero

points first toward an ignition/charging system problem, rather than a fuel problem.
Possible causes, in order of likelihood:

1. Stator failure when hot
   • A stator can work normally when cold and then lose output as it heats up.
   • The tachometer gets its signal from the charging system, so a failing stator can cause the tach needle to drop to zero intermittently.
   • Loss of stator output can also reduce power and limit RPM.
2. Loose or corroded stator/rectifier connections
   • Heat and vibration can cause an intermittent connection.
   • The tach dropping out is a strong clue that the tach signal itself is being interrupted.
3. Voltage regulator/rectifier problem
   • A shorted regulator can load the stator and affect tach operation.
   • Check battery voltage while running. It should typically be around 13.5–14.5 V above idle.
4. Power pack (CDI) or ignition issue
   • A cylinder bank dropping out can limit RPM to around 3500–4000.
   • However, the tach dropping to zero makes me look at the charging system first.
5. Engine protection mode
   • Overheat or fuel restriction can cause reduced power.
   • Usually you would get warning indications, and the tach would normally continue to read correctly.

• Did the tach drop to zero only briefly, or stay at zero for several seconds?

The tachometer behavior is an important clue. If the needle was dropping to zero while the engine was still running at speed, I would start by testing the stator output and regulator connections before looking elsewhere

 

[Keyboardman]

All the coils check out to spec with an ohm meter. This in not a FITCH engine, just has 6 hungry carbs. No overheat warning or fuel restriction alarm. I've experienced that before with a clogged water separator. I have replaced the timing base and stator, and and rebuilt the flywheel a couple of years ago when epoxy on the the magnets gave up. Rebuilt the carbs last year too.

 

[Crosbyman]

not FICHT but likely same considerations since carbs can probably excluded as the problem source. always post engine mdl # . I don't see much FICHT in EV 1996 200hp model listing so AI seems off a bit..again :-(

ai has been informed... it kind of works like a HAL9000

 

[dingbat]

All the coils check out to spec with an ohm meter. This in not a FITCH engine, just has 6 hungry carbs. No overheat warning or fuel restriction alarm. I've experienced that before with a clogged water separator. I have replaced the timing base and stator, and and rebuilt the flywheel a couple of years ago when epoxy on the the magnets gave up. Rebuilt the carbs last year too.

Not getting up to speed sounds like a dropped cylinder.

The tach bouncing around sounds like your losing a voltage regulator.
Have you checked the voltage while running?

Have yet to have a bad coil not pass the ohms test.
I replace at the first signs of any cracks in the case as PM