'96 Johnson 115 Problems

[crappie_condo]

Overheat horn intermittently coming on, as well as intermittent miss/dead cylinder feel at idle. 3/4 of the time it runs fine, but when running for a few miles WOT the overheat horn comes on even though the motor is not hot or missing out. The Tach. has been flakey also jumping all around, does this sound like a regulator?? It is water cooled. Replaced the regulator ~5yrs ago for not charging the batt.

Compression test results

Port Starboard
Top-120 Top-124
Bottom-112 Bottom-120

Pic of plugs, bottom port side is dry and also has the lowest compression. Any input appreciated........

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

J/E Alarms

low oil alarm is a beep every 30 seconds. beep......................beep...................

no oil alarm is a beep every 1/2 second or so.beep,beep,beep

overheat alarm is a constant beep.beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep

just because you have water coming out the tale tell, does not mean the motor is not overheating.

the tale tell, is only an indicator the impeller is pumping water. it does not mean the thermostat is opening and cooling the block and exhaust.





Johnson alarms

An intermittant "beep...beep...beep" sound has to do with oil injection. A steady continuous " beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep" has to do with overheating. Oil injection on all outboards produces an intermittant beep when there is either a problem with your motor not getting oil, oil tank level sensor is bad, or your oil level in the tank is low. When the oil tank is low, you have roughly 30 to 45 minutes running time before being empty. Regardless, when you hear the intermittant "beep...beep...beep" sound, always make sure you know the answer (low oil or no oil) before continuing to operate motor further. If you dont understand the oil warning, your motor is doomed from continued operation if the oil injection system has failed.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

Overheat horn intermittently coming on, as well as intermittent miss/dead cylinder feel at idle. 3/4 of the time it runs fine, but when running for a few miles WOT the overheat horn comes on even though the motor is not hot or missing out. The Tach. has been flakey also jumping all around, does this sound like a regulator?? It is water cooled. Replaced the regulator ~5yrs ago for not charging the batt.

Compression test results

Port Starboard
Top-120 Top-124
Bottom-112 Bottom-120

Pic of plugs, bottom port side is dry and also has the lowest compression. Any input appreciated........

how are you verifying that the motor is NOT running hot, when the alarm goes off at WOT????

is the alarm a continuous beeeeeeeeeep???

if not, it isnt the over heat alarm...


bob

 

[crappie_condo]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

how are you verifying that the motor is NOT running hot, when the alarm goes off at WOT????

is the alarm a continuous beeeeeeeeeep???

if not, it isnt the over heat alarm...


bob

Yes, continuous beep. VRO has been disabled for 6+yrs, pre-mix 50:1. I've shut it down right when the alarm sounds and checked it with a IR Temp. gun and it was 135 to 140 F.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

Yes, continuous beep. VRO has been disabled for 6+yrs, pre-mix 50:1. I've shut it down right when the alarm sounds and checked it with a IR Temp. gun and it was 135 to 140 F.

your motor is NOT over heating at 135-140 degrees

as a matter of fact that is a good temperature to run at... I dont think the thermostats open till the motor gets 140 degrees!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you may have a similar issue as i do... exactly 2 minutes after i start my motor the overheat alarm sounds and exactly 10 seconds later the horn shuts off....it has done it absolutely 100% of the time I have had the motor...dont know why, could never get an answer...

and I just live with it...at that time the temps are barely 100 degrees!!

so it is something in the system that has nothing to do with actual temperatures...

the flaky tach could be a lose wire or rectifier issues....can you tell if your motor is putting out a charge to your battery???

I had tach issues for a while as well....would rise to about 2000 then fall to zero...

cant remember what i actually did that specifically changed that...

I wish i could help with the plugs, but id be guessing...

run some carbon breakup solution through the gas...I bought mine at the mechanics shop...you mis it with the gas to help break up carbon depostis over time...


maybe you have some carbon in that low compression cylinder..

but it isnt that bad



id also suspect a bad O-ring( depending on your model motor):...I may have to replace one on my port head as well. i was getting salt deposits on the plug in that cylinder..( i run the motor in salt water all winter)...

my mechanic said I probably had a slight leak.

there is no head gasket...just two O-rings and a tight fit!!!!

good luck

bob

 

[crappie_condo]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

THX for the input. I'm still trying to figure out the one dry plug also. Gotta take a look at a few more things, so I'm sure I'll have more Q's.

 

[crappie_condo]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

After looking at the schematic, my carbs have a single idle air orifice, but 2 jets each for the intermediate and high speed ports. Maybe one of the jets have some trash in them causing the dry plug issue for that cylinder? May be time to go thru the carbs, it's been at least 5+yrs.

 

[James R]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

If I am not mistaken your VRO fuel pump side has a vacuum switch to detect sufficient fuel pressure/flow. This produces the same signal as overheat if there is insufficient fuel going thru. Mine was on a 150 and running tests on the motor revealed that the 6gal tank and hose wasn't allowing a good fuel flow. With connection to the main 17gal tank the problem disappeared. You can disconnect the switch to make a test but insufficient fuel could burn the motor up.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

If I am not mistaken your VRO fuel pump side has a vacuum switch to detect sufficient fuel pressure/flow. This produces the same signal as overheat if there is insufficient fuel going thru. Mine was on a 150 and running tests on the motor revealed that the 6gal tank and hose wasn't allowing a good fuel flow. With connection to the main 17gal tank the problem disappeared. You can disconnect the switch to make a test but insufficient fuel could burn the motor up.

I have a 95 manual for 90 115 150 and 175 hp, 60 degree eagle motors.



it says in the manual about alarms that the 6 cylinders have a fuel delivery alarm, but the V4s dont!!!


bob

 

[clanton]

Re: '96 Johnson 115 Problems

Oil tank sensor disconnected?
VRO wires disconnected and connector covered/taped?
If this engine has System Check, bad tach could cause no fault alarm beeping.
Check blocking diode in engine harness. This diode blocks false signal to the alarm.