A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

[tkdunn]

As I mentioned in my other thread about winterizing, I'm new to boating so I'm sure I sound like a complete idiot. Please excuse my ignorance. With that being said:

I have a 96 112 evinrude on a 20' pontoon. My brother went into a cove and the water level suddenly dropped. The rear of the boat got hung on a small fallen tree. The prop grazed the tree and there is some damage to the outside edge of the blades. I didn't notice any difference in performance of the boat but is this something to be concerned about? What happens when the prop is damaged? The boat is insured, should I file a claim? I don't have a picture but I will take one when I winterize the motor this weekend - it is stored about 50 miles from where I'm currently living. Also, how do I find out which replacement prop I would need?

Also, how hard is it to change out the water pump? It is functioning, there's a clear stream of water coming out when the boat is operating but I'm unsure of how strong the stream needs to be. No alarms have gone off. The person I bought the boat from said that the psi for the water pump should be in the middle of the gauge but it's lower which makes me think it's time to change it.

I've never had a problem tackling automotive repair but I don't know much about outboards. I don't have any special tools, no stand to hold the lower unit or a vice. Is there an alternative? Is this the type of job someone without experience should attempt on their own? I have watched videos for water pump replacement on various brands and models and it doesn't seem that complicated other than removing the lower unit itself.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

Damaged props may lead to unbalance and damage in the gearbox. Send it to a prop shop and have it fixed, probably a minor cost that may not even be worth while claiming from insurance! If you intend to do your own service and minor repairs, water pump IS minor, invest in an OEM workshop manual from the start. Stay away from general manuals and on-line manuals. Search on e-Bay, they pop up there now and then.

 

[boobie]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

If you're going to do any work on this mtr yourself the first thing to do is get an OEM Factory service manual. Stay away from Seloc or Clymer.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

I have a $50 deductible for insurance. Although I'm not sure what effect filing a claim has on my policy. What does a repair typically cost for minor damage to an aluminum prop? My OEM manual is regularly on ebay for around $40. I just haven't ordered yet because I don't intend on doing any repairs during the winter. I'm not a fan of the cold. lol Can the water pump be replaced without a lower unit stand/vice? My parents (boat is stored at their house) don't have a garage so there is no where to really put a vice.

 

[Fleetwin]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

I wouldn't file a claim on a prop repair. But, I would get it repaired, over the winter.

The water pump, on that engine, is relatively simple. The only tedious part is getting to the shift linkage under the bottom carbureter. The manual will easily walk you through it.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

I will get the manual off ebay and find someone to help change out the water pump towards the end of the winter. Do I have to be concerned about the shift rod length? If I don't do anything with the rod and leave the shifter on the boat in the exact same position when I reinstall the lower unit I shouldn't have a problem with it bolting back up and shifting correctly, right?

 

[boobie]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

Leave the shift rod in the same position as it's in when you take the G/C off. Don't "screw with it". LOL.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

Sorry for asking so many questions. I'm a female so I research every possible scenario before I loosen one bolt. lol I actually went to school to be an automotive technician and was told I would excel for that very reason. Is it same to assume that if I were going to replace the o rings under the shift rod (I can't think of what that part is called) that I could mark the position? Maybe with masking tape and measure the height to be safe?

When my motor is at WOT it is sometimes hard to pull the shifter back. I read that hard shifting is often due to the orings. The throttle linkage was adjusted by an evinrude technician this summer. It started after this but prior the throttle (at the helm) would not fully extend.

My steering is also tight so I'm going to attempt to clean and grease the steering cable/tilt tube.

 

[boobie]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

If you want to remove the shift rod after you get the L/U off, look at the off set at the top of the rod and screw the the rod in till it bottoms at the same time counting the turns. You can then back it out to remove the shift rod cover to replace the orings. When you put the cover and rod back in just screw the rod back in till it bottoms and back it out the same number of turns you started with. If you're in a salt water area the orings have a habit of corrosion building up in them causing hard shifting.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

I personally have only taken it in fresh water but I'm unsure of the previous owner. Your directions seem easy enough and when I get the manual it'll all make sense. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Fleetwin]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

Your "tight" throttle linkage may be nothing more than a cable adjustment. Or, some loose components in the shifter.

The tight steering can be as simple as someone tightening the link arm nut too tight. The "link arm" is that arm that goes from the steering cable end to the engine.

 

[boobie]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

First guess would be for the tight steering would be in the tilt tube itself on the mtr.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

I did my winterization today. I greased the metal piece that the throttle linkage slides up and down in while shifting. It now only hangs when fully extended in reverse. I didn't have a big enough wrench at the time to completely remove the steering cable but I turned the engine as much as I could to expose the cable, cleaned, and greased with white lithium and it turns smoothly now.


When draining the gear oil I noticed there were a few swirl marks. The oil still had the same feel as the new oil. Very few metal shavings on the magnet. The castle nut on the prop was very lose, two turns with my hand and it fell off. Could this have allowed water to get into the lower unit? Probably not, but I figured I'd ask. Is it safe to run the motor with some water getting into the lower unit? I had just finished running the motor on the ear muffs when I drained the unit.

 

[tkdunn]

Re: A couple questions about 96 112 SPL

Here are some pictures of my prop. Is it damaged enough to send it for repair?