a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

[martygry7162]

ok....now i hear that this is a bad thing just how bad is it thou? and what can i do? there was no metal chunks so the gears aren't all ground up can i just pull the prop off grease it and replace the thrust washer along with replacing the washers around the level plug and drain plug

 

[horsefly38425]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

it's not that bad as long as you don't have more water than oil/frist you will need to replace all seals or fill it up with new oil run it and see just how much water is getting in /if oil is driping out off skag its a hub/fill/drain seal but most of the time its a water pump seal

 

[BubbaBaxter]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

Grey isn't great but ... it's better than water. Replacing the thrust washer won't help. It has nothing to do with the gearcase leaking.<br /><br />You're on the right track with replacing the fill and vent screw washers. That should be done every time the gear oil is changed.<br /><br />If that doesn't stop the leak, you're going to have to pull the gear case, pressurize it and look for leaks with a soapy water solution.

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

back for some more help. i got <br />distracted from the lower unit when <br />my engine wouldn't start (thats still <br />an issue).........................<br />but one thats close to being solved so<br />i need to get back to this and if <br />anyone <br />has answers for me i would be <br />greatly appreciative..............<br />ok here's the break down of where i <br />was, am and need to be....<br />L/U leaked found (no nylon washers<br /> in either fill or drain screw)....<br />which i know is not good<br />so i replaced the washers and oil filling it until<br /> it flowed out the level screw put level<br /> back in pulled fill hose and replaced <br />drain screw. i was hoping this<br /> would correct the leak but it didn't so i<br /> changed it again.......... i also replaced the 2 seals directly behind the anode had serious trouble getting the old ones out and may have nicked the shaft bearing housing....not to mention i may not have set the seals deep enough into the housing because the thrust washer didn't seat as deep on the spleen of the shaft<br />as it did when i took the thing apart.......<br />so thats where i'm at it still leaks may have a nicked shaft bearing housing and housing seals may not be set deep enough into the housing or it could be the pump gasket <br /><br />not wanting to get stuck out on the lake (engine problems) i put the motor in a barral

 

[OBJ]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

Marty....if the thrust washer is dragging on the seals, you did not get them in far enough. If you look around the edge of the hole the seals fit in, you will see a slight chamfer. The last seal in should settle in even with the bottom of the chamfer. You did pull the bearing carrier to replace these seals didn't you? Usually you can find a socket to push them in with. Ya' need to make sure these seals are installed correctly.

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

what is a bearing carrier if you mean i spring coiled like wsher yes i pulled that out then the 2 seals what of the nick on the shaft bearing housing it's not a bad one but one none the less<br />reffering to ch.9 in the clymer manual book#B732 there's a diagram of the unit and it doesn't show any such bearing carrier there's the anode then the 2 seals the housing bearings and an o-ring but no carrier

 

[Bass Runner]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

I don't know what year or make your motor but i know the older evin-johnson motors only had one seal, all that i ever had got a little water in the lower unit, just had to keep a eye on them, one thing did you look at the prop shaft while you had it apart, where the seal runs if it has a fair sized wear groove you may need a prop shaft. Also leave the prop off and turn the shaft if it has any wobble in it you may need bearings and a shaft. Hope this helps boat rebuild

 

[OBJ]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

The books call it the bearing housing assembly. I use a light coat of gasket sealing compound if I find a nick in the walls of the seal cavity. That "spring washer" you mentioned is part of the seal. Just make sure the seals go all the way in and the prop shaft does not have any nicks in it.<br /><br />Have you done a pressure/vacuum test to determine where the leaks is? This is the best way to find out. Put a few pounds of air into the gear case and submerge in water. Any leaks will be very apparent.

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

no i haven't done a pressure/vacuum but that is the move i was planning but do i have to take the L/U off to do this test?......and another thing the 2 seals that are not seated all the way how and what can i do to get them in deeper did i ruin them by there not being seated right i only ran the engine for 2 minutes submerged in a tank and when i turned it over i could see an oily mix in the water so the L/U is definetly leaking and it's cameing out from the prop when i tilted the moter back down........ere can i get a presure tester or do i have to make one

 

[Bass Runner]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

You can do that test with a bycyle pump just adapt it to the top fill hole and no you don't have to pull the lower unit, it dosnt take that much air pressure. You can take a piece of tubing to go over the prop shaft make sure it just hits the metal part of the seal and just tap them on in, look at the rubber part of the seal make sure you didnt tear or cut it when you put it in the first time, you will get a little oil film from the exaust in the water when you start it. Don't panic these were tough old motors. Hope this helps

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

ok, the prop shaft has no nicks and i cut some gasket material so it fit over the shaft and then used a piece of PVC pipe and a rubber mallet to GENTLY tap the seals deeper into the housing. one ???? i have is.....(?????how much if any clearence should there be between the thrust washer and the castellated nut??????).... right now the washer is as flush with the prop shaft spline as you can get. i really don't think i can get it in any deeper...............now as for the oil that i just drained there were no large chunks and the oil was only slightly milky (same color as the new oil just a little murkier)....(????does that tell me anything as to the severity of the leak????....i didn't get to run the engine in the barral very long but it was submerged in a full barral for several days...(???will this sonerio give me the proper test that i'm looking for????).... i know if there's water in there that would be worse than what i have....???right???................<br />as for the pressure test ....(????do i just pump air into the mt l/u from the fill screw and watch to see if the pressure holds????).....if it does great, if it doesn't then what ...(????do i submerge the l/u in a barral or just spray soapy water???).... sense i wanna see if those seals i replaced are holding ...(????can i submerge the l/u with the prop exposed all the way to them seals behind the anode????)... i mean if those seals are to keep water out then leaving the anode off while doing the pressure test shouldn't be a problem..(????right????).... <br /><br />the'll be more DUMB ?? to follow once i've annalized the useful advice i get from this post<br />ty<br />marty

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

would a small air compresser be to much pressure

 

[mepdenny]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

Can someone tell me what "F I C H T " stands for when talking about an Evinrude motor.

 

[vegard]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

an aircompressor would be too much, unless its regulated. If you fill teh LU with air (oil drained) to a few PSI ( I would do like 10 or so) and then spray some soap (I like windex) at the seals, it will clearly bubble where the leak is.

 

[Bass Runner]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

All you have to do is mix some dishwashing liquid and water in a squirt bottle and take a bike pump and put a little air press. in the l/u squirt the soapy water on the seals and around the drain plug if it bubbles it's leaking (warning) do not use a air compressor or you are asking to blow the seals out, the lower unit dosn't have any pressure on it except from oil expansion.

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

i just finished pressure testing the l/u and it doesn't hold. so could someone point out where to check for leaks. <br />i've marked what i thought were the points to check but could use some conformation .... i wanna say i should check the seals behind the anode the fill/drain plugs and the area around the cavitation plate is that right if not were and how many places are needed to be checked<br />

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

what is meant by dropping the l/u

 

[martygry7162]

Re: a milky lower unit in a 1989 rude 40hp o/b

i wanna know is this the right thing to do????