A strange? lower unit oil question

[joetheis]

Here's the story........
I'm not quite sure WHERE this should be posted, so I figured I'd start here.
I'm looking at a British Seagull outboard for the old 16' sailboat I'm restoring.
These are cool motors, 1 1/2- 2 HP been basically the same since the 30's, tough long life motors.
Your not gonna get on plane with them, but the HP to what they can push is pretty good, and best of all, it looks sooo cool!
I look at it, got compression and spark, look on line for info, now I'm "Seagull Smart"!
The lower unit is WEIRD!
impellar (not a impellar but a "rotor"), life is 40 plus years
There is no water seals in it to keep the water from the lower unit.
A "grit seal" is what they call it.
So water DOES enter and mix with the oil.
Every 6 hours er so , they recommend dumping the mix out and start fresh.
It calls for 140 wt oil, (I guess to keep from dripping out)?
The oil they call for comes from across the big pond and is, well expensive for a pint ($39)! From the pics on Ebay the oil is chocolate colored in the bottle.
My question is.........
Can normal lower unit oil (like the one in my 70 rude and 9.9. Johnson troller), mix with water and STILL lube the bearings?
Any ideas if auto gear oil will mix with water and still lube?? (Amsoil makes a 140 wt oil).
I was always taught that if water is introduced it separates the oil modcules and breaks the oil down and the water will pit the smooth surfaces of the bearings, (this as a 4 wheel land cruiser).
Really I could live with the drip, (or store the motor "prop up" ) when not in use.
The cost of the points ($35), the condenser ($37), the S/plug may be a killer, but I can't deal with the cost of the lower unit oil!
Thoughts?
Ideas?
Jokes?
Joe
Wine makes you smart
Beer gives you muscles
Water has bacteria
you descide!

 

[nwcove]

i use regular 140 wt gear oil.....still expensive but not $39 a pint.

 

[joetheis]

I BELIEVE any gear oil will work in a lower unit. After all it HAS to run cooler than a on the road type gear box. A gear is a gear and a bearing is a bearing. It's when water is introduced to the mix, (HA! mix)!!
The problem I'm having is that will it mix with H2O and STILL be a lube the bearings?
I wonder what synth. oil and water will mix like?
The oils and such are a arm and a leg, just think what a lower unit would run!!
Joe
I was never one to buy "normal stuff"!
If it's weird and unusual, it for me!

 

[F_R]

Sea Gulls break all the rules. By any other standards, they shouldn't even run. But the truth is you can't hardly keep them from running. Throw one overboard, fish it out, blow it off and start it up. Sure, water gets into the gear oil. It did in American motors eons ago too. No big deal, just change it. No you don't have to import it either.

 

[nwcove]

heres one thats in rough shape......not from water mixing with the oil, but from being stored without an oil change. as you can see...its as basic as it gets for a lu .

 

[boobie]

Years ago the old OMC's used what the called a 105 grease in the lower units. Wonder if that would work ??

 

[Vic.S]

All the info you could possibly want on British Seagull outboards on the Saving old Seagulls website and the associated forums.

It is difficult to find the SAE 140 oil called for but anything lighter tends to leak out too quickly although some of the later ones built had seals in the gear boxes and used EP90 oil.

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/phpbb3/

 

[joetheis]

I've poured over the S.O.S. web site, pretty good site! I can get just about anything I need from it, but it's the cost from Pounds to $$ AND the shipping that has mu socks rolling!
From what I've seem on U tube and looking the sites, it IS a wonder they run!
The flywheel is open, (small plastic cover no seals, gaskets), points are covered by a small brass cup, the cylinder and head sealing is amazing,, just paper gaskets, (reminds me of the old air cooled VW motors! What do they know across the pond that we don't)?
I found a thread that states a guy uses NAPA 140 gear oil, (not a multi grade, just straight weight oil). I'm gonna take a trip over to NAPA and see if I can get it.
The 2 smoke oil (10:1 mix. This is why they run so long, it mostly oil going in the crank)! , can be any good 2 smoke outboard oil, (the oil acts as a seal for the crank seals, so it doesn't suck air in- another weird but soooo simple an idea)!
The fuel tank is brass, no rust either, no hoses with hose clamp, all made up hoses with threaded fittings, nice touch.
It's deer season here in N.E.Pa., the guy is retired and a BIG hunter, so I'll have to wait til Sunday to look at it once again.
Joe
It's OLD
It's WEIRD
It needs a good home
I MUST have it!

 

[Tim Frank]

If you are changing the gearcase oil every 6 hours, it probably doesn't matter what you use.
If it were me, I'd use 90 weight (cheap) and mix a good shot of EP grease with it to thicken it up

 

[nwcove]

i could be wrong..but i think the interval is 10 hrs, and you dont change the oil, you just top it up to replace the oil that " went away".

 

[Tim Frank]

Here's the story........

The lower unit is WEIRD!
impellar (not a impellar but a "rotor"), life is 40 plus years
There is no water seals in it to keep the water from the lower unit.
A "grit seal" is what they call it.
So water DOES enter and mix with the oil.
Every 6 hours er so , they recommend dumping the mix out and start fresh.
It calls for 140 wt oil, (I guess to keep from dripping out)?

I can only go by what the OP offers up....

 

[joetheis]

Tanks!
The "Lust" for the motor has subsided!
I talked to the owner, I am the only guy intrested in it.
I'm gonna cool my heals til spring on it, if it's there, I'll try to fire it up and try it out on my boat, before I dive in deep on it.
Tanks!
Joe
Look! I'm tryin to be an adult, but it's hard! I see, I want!