A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100hp)

SuzukiChopper

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Edit: For my 1972 Johnson 100hp hydroelectric shift.<br /><br />First of all thanks to everyone that helped me get my motor running last week. Managed to take it out twice, still having a problem when easing in on the throttle (likes to die), but found out today that I am missing a few parts for the low speed mixture screws (whoever rebuilt the carbs last didn't have these parts in there, and stupid me never waited until I had a manual, no big deal). Boat ran great at speed and idled great, just have to give it gas to go (this will be fixed before we go again).<br /><br />Anyways, I have ordered a manual and in the mean time ended up with a 1 year subscription to the online seloc manuals. So I started troubleshooting my reverse problem (using information from here and there). Well I checked the voltage at the connections to the lower unit (coming from the control box), and in neutral have 1.65 volts on one, and in reverse had 1.65 volts on both. Now the online manual states that there should just be a voltage. Other information says that I should have a full 12 volts. I tend to lean towards a full 12v as most solenoids are 12 or 24v. This is pointing me towards a bad connection somewhere or bad contacts in the switch causing a high resistance and a voltage drop. But before I tear apart the control box, am I assuming the right information? I also checked the solenoid resistance, one was 6.5 ohms (good) the other was 38 ohms (not good), so I have a new one on the way as well as a new impeller while I'm in there. I just want to make sure that any other problems I have with it are solved before I get too far. If someone could confirm this that would be great. Thanks again!
 

JB

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Hi, Chopper.<br /><br />When you start a new topic you need to remind us what your engine is (in detail) and what your problem is.<br /><br />Good luck. :)
 

SuzukiChopper

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Shoot sorry, completely forgot. It's a 1972 Johnson 100hp hydroelectric shift. DOH. :)
 

SuzukiChopper

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Just wanted to bump this up.
 

rdh2059

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

You mentioned you ordered a replacement solenoid. Do you mean you ordered an entirely new solenoid assembly, which contains 2 solenoids, a guide wire, two iron cores and some other machined parts...? OR did you get someone to sell you a single solenoid coil? Taking the old assembly apart to replace a single solenoid isn't all that fun. the lower parts screw on to the shaft and quite often twist the shaft end off when you remove the lower parts. <br /> Aligning the solenoid to go directly into the hole in the bottom of the solenoid cavity is a challenge, but be patient don't use force to assemble the solenoid unit or put it in the lower housing. Be gentle or you'll have to replace it again. Speaking from experience here...<br /><br />Rick
 

R.Johnson

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Are you sure about the year of your engine? 1971 was the last year they used idle mixture screws. Yor carbs' should have fixed low speed jets. If the solinoid you ordered is not the complete assembly, you will have to put the control rod back in proper adjustment. You are right abpot the voltage going to the solinoids, it should be a full 12 volts. Do you by chance have the special socket that fits the drive shaft splines. If you do! when you get the gearcase back together, and before you install the water pump. Jump a battery to the shift wires, and turn the drive shaft with a speed wrench. A speed wrench is a socket wrench that looks like a old fashioned drill brace. I don't know if speed wrench is the proper term. When I first started working on these cases, I was surprized how slow you could turn the drive shaft, and make it shift if every thing was correct.
 

SuzukiChopper

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

I did order just the top solenoid. At $140cdn I'd hate to see what the whole assembly costs :) I'll definately take my time with it and have a seloc manual coming (they also have instructions online on how to change out a single solenoid also). I'll be paying very close attention to it.<br /><br />Thanks for confirming the voltage to the solenoids. Guess I'll be pulling the control box and checking the continuity of the wires to the motor and the voltage going in and coming out of the switch. I don't have a speed wrench, so I hope I get it right the first time *laugh*. <br /><br />Also, the air silencer assembly has four holes in it that are marked as "slow speed mixture screws". The motor is definately a '72, and when I asked the dealer here in town, he also said there is. They are four screws at the backs of the carbs below the opening. When I did the carbs, I had rebuilt them exactly like they were done previously, and those four screws only had a thick paper gasket on them and were lightly tightened down. The dealer said there should be four thick keyed rubber "grommets". So I took them all out and put in what he said was the right part, and adjusted them to 1 1/4 turns. The only thing that bothers me is the heads of these stick out past the gasket surface and are almost to the point where they interfere with the cover going on. So either he misled me, the air silencer is not correct (replaced), the carbs were replaced, or I have something strange happening. I'm going to try and get it out soon and see if what I did made any difference to how it runs (I know it runs great on muffs). If not then I'll be waiting for the manual to show up and confirm everything AGAIN. If there are some pictures somewhere I could look at of these carbs that would be great too. <br /><br />Thanks!
 

R.Johnson

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Just to be sure I was leading you on the right track, I went to the shop to look over the carbs for my 72 Johnson 125. Those screws you are talking about are nothing more than seals to cover where the needle valves went on the older engines. They have to be snugged down with the fiber washer underneath. They are not an adjustment screw.If you have them backed off 1-1/4 turns you would have one heck of an air leak, and the engine will not run at idle, in fact thats why the air box will not fit flush as it should. You must have the correct airbox because the anchor for the throttle cable fits on the lower right corner. If you look at your carbs, just above the float bowl on both sides is a slotted screw, under this screw are the low speed idle jets, Take a look, and let us know what you find.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Those screws were a special pan head screw that uses a fiber gasket, or washer underneath. They are strictly a seal to close off the passage where the needle valve used to go. The keyed grommet the dealer is talking about was the seal around the needle valve. They don't belong in your carb.
 

SuzukiChopper

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Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Re: A thanks, and another question (shift solenoid and stalling, 72 johnson 100h

Now that makes sense. That's kind of what I thought but had nothing or no one to substantiate it. I was being told different things and was waiting for my manual to find out for sure. I really appreciate the leg work on this one. I'll be putting those screws back to the way they were originally and try it out. I did notice that I had some gas leakage on the lower carb around those screws so maybe I never tightened them enough the first time. That may be exactly why it was running the way it is. I will let you know how it turns out! I'm excited now and want to get out on the lake!! :) Thank you very very much R. Johnson and Rick Hall for this information. If I have any more problems regarding these issues or end up at the solution I'll post back into here incase someone else has the same problem. If there's anything else to add that may help out that'd be great too, thanks again!
 
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