? About bottom paint on aluminum , electrolysis , Charging , Repairing elec damage

[Shife]

Re: ? About bottom paint on aluminum , electrolysis , Charging , Repairing elec damag

Trilux 33 will still eat aluminum if you did not prime with an epoxy barrier coat. Whether that barrier coat is Interprotect 2000, West, or Gluvit is irrelevent, but it still needs to be primed. The only exception would be a factory fresh hull with an intact factory paint job. Even then Interlux requires priming with their non-corrosive Primocon tie coat. Any chips or scratches on an older hull or from sanding to prep will allow the Trilux to react with the aluminum. Even though Trilux 33 is marketed as "aluminum safe" you still need to follow the instructions if you don't want galvanic corrosion from the paint to eat your hull.

If you and your brother skipped the primer/barrier coat, you just created a lot of work for yourselves.

 

[191Seanymphstriper]

Re: ? About bottom paint on aluminum , electrolysis , Charging , Repairing elec damag

Yes he did skip that step! I told him to soda blast it off but who knows what he will do with that 18 before he brings it upstate!

 

[191Seanymphstriper]

Re: ? About bottom paint on aluminum , electrolysis , Charging , Repairing elec damag

Maybe a good heated preasure washing can get it off... What do you think?

 

[Shife]

Re: ? About bottom paint on aluminum , electrolysis , Charging , Repairing elec damag

Maybe a good heated preasure washing can get it off... What do you think?

You will be wasting time with a pressure washer. Order up some Peel Ply. Make sure the correct type is ordered. There is more than one formula and they do different things. The alternative to chemical removal is sanding or media blasting. Lots and lots of sanding. Media blasting can destroy a tin hull into a warped mess, sanding is hell, and chemicals are messy. The lesser evil and the choice I'd make is chemical removal. It is the cheapest and most efficient when you factor in materials and time.