about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

[thehermit]

Greetings,<br />Well I have searched all the posts on the thermostats - I have a 1982 115 evinrude and the tstats have not been off in 6 years (salt water-moored). All bolts are completely frozen with 2 now rounded off I have drilled holes in the rear alumn cover so I can start to drill out the bold head and get cover off. I plan to then deal with the broken off studs some how. ????<br />I am posting this info and taking a breather to get comments - epinions before completely diving in. HELP....experience and words of wisdom run deep on these boards...I could sure use some!<br />hermit

 

[Solittle]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

hermit - As you are finding out that is a bitc* of a job without problems but it can be done - - <br /><br />As I see it you have two choices - - One is to pull the powerhead and hope that the extra access to the bolts will enable you to get them out and - - Two and the one I would choose is to take it to a machine shop. I don't know your area but the kind of machine shop I'm thinking of is probably run by an old guy with tons of even older machines in the dirtiest shop you can imagine. He does, however know "stuff" that the machinests of today never heard of. Got one near me and he can work miracles - and you need one.

 

[mutron77]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

I have had good results on salt water motors using<br />a propane torch heat the bolt The aluminum around the bolt expands and then I could get ot off. Some of them I let cool a little and put some penetrating oil on them in hopes that it would suck into the threads.<br />I did this on my lower unit on a 25 EV but obviously you would have to be very careful working near the head itself. I think taking it to a machine shop is a good idea.<br />H90

 

[Hooty]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

As long as the bolt isn't twisted off, there's a possibility of removing it without drilling it out. Put the heat to it. <br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty

 

[steviecops]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Please let me know how you get on with this.<br /><br />I am going to have to change my thermostat soon, as I strongly suspect that it has either been removed or seized up.<br /><br />From other jobs I've done on my engine, I just know that the head cover bolts are not going to want to come out! I'm dreading doing this job and will probably wait until after the summer. I don't want to be without my boat during the Bass season!

 

[thehermit]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

good news....2 out of 3 so far and trying to be patient like I read on an old post on this repair. I picked up a 6 point box wrench and after 2 cans of penetrating spray I backed out the outside bolts last night. The only one that remains is the center bolt. I started drilling but then stopped as I want to try a drive on socket first! I am a bit more hopefull at this point. <br />Stevie....start spraying those bolts now! soak the whole bubble cover if you must and hope it seeps down in. <br />HEAT....tried that and after strange noises realized Hey...the cover is part plastic...cought myself in time and went back to the GUNK super penetrating spray.<br />hermit

 

[reeldutch]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

This is exactly the reason i drilled the holes in the lower engine cover on my bubbleback.<br />so it will be a simple thing to remove the bolts every season and clean the tstats.<br />Maintenence should be simple, like changing a waterpump. I realy love my V4 bud the tstat disign sucks. why didnt the make them on the cylinderhead ?<br />i will never let it sit for more than 2 seasons in salt water.I hate frozen bolts.<br /><br />reeldutch

 

[rodbolt]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

hello<br /> the bolts rarely stick in the threads. usually in the cover and housing. if someone brings me a neglected motor I usually take the air chisel and crack the housing and cover and take it off in pieces and remove the bolts last. at 70-90 an hour its cheaper for the customer and easier for me. the cover and housing is 25-30 dollars.<br /> buy new bolts.<br /> grease them well. change the t-stats yearly. use the sierra ones that are vented and self flushing or the omc/bomb style but cut a vent in the poppet with a dremmel tool or the next posts will read.<br /> motor runs great but first time it idles for 4 min then the hot buzzer sounds,shut it off and retry in 10 min and its fine. trust me on this<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Great tips on the Sierra's being vented & busting up the housing with an air chisel. If it saves you having to pull a crusty powerhead, it's well worth a new housing.

 

[steviecops]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Hermit<br />I don't actually have the same engine as you, mines a 1980 55. To get at my thermostat, I have to remove the head cover. 14 or 15 bolts!<br /><br />Rodbolt, would the same apply to tearing my head cover off? Or would a whole new cover work out expensive? Don't forget, we're talking U.K prices here!<br /><br />I know the job's got to be done, and will make future maintenance easier, but just thinking about it gives me nightmares <br /><br />P.S, sorry for half hijacking your thread hermit

 

[thehermit]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

good stuff...I am not quite ready to chissel the cover off just yet but I can see how that would ease some of my frustration. I wouldnt want to be paying the going rate for all the head scatching I did willing those bolts to move <br />reeldutch...how did you cover the holes? I need to do that.<br />steviecops...start spaying those bolts now I'm tellin ya itll help<br />hermit

 

[G DANE]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

steviecops<br /><br />The head cover is much easier accesseble than the hidden thermohousing under the bubbleback. Start with soaking them, and after some days turn them 1/32 turn at first, then soak again for a couple af days. If one or two snaps off, get something TIGwelded to them and turn them out after cooling down.

 

[reeldutch]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

i covered the holes with a metal epoxy that normaly plummers use. you can buy it at any hardware store.<br />i sanded the inside and outside and used the putty. after letting it sit for a day i started to sand it smooth. <br />I used more metal epoxy on the inside to make it hold stronger.<br />than i primed and spraypainted it and it lookes pretty good.<br />You can still see that the holes where there but i'm happy with it and it doesnt look bad at all.<br />Beats a 400 dollar bill from a mechanic.<br />i will make a picture and try to post it <br /><br />reeldutch

 

[steviecops]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Thanks for the advice guys.<br />I'll start soaking them now and keep it up throughout the summer!<br /><br />Like I said, I probably won't attempt the job until after the summer so I've got plenty of time to try to get some penetrating oil in there.<br /><br />Is there anything I can soak the bolts in that eats the salt water corrosion? When I did my lower unit, the problem wasn't rust, it was that horrible white corrosion that seized the bolts.<br /><br />Also, should the head cover bolts come out any easier than my lower unit bolts, seeing that they haven't been submerged in the salt water?<br /><br />Thanks<br />Steve

 

[rodbolt]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

stevie<br /> about the best thing to use on that horrid white stuff is prayer. the next best is oxy/acetylene.<br /> even then they snap off. never ever try an easy out if it snaps due to the horrid stuff. sometimes straight chlorox will help but not on the cover. it also eats rubber and destroys electrical things.<br /> sometimes I have to pull the head and drill out the broken bolts.<br /> I cant type but I can twist wrenches. I have been many things over the years but alas a typist aint one of them.<br />good luck and keep posting

 

[steviecops]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Thanks rodbolt<br />Now there's a thought, pulling the head to get at the cover bolts. I might take that approach, as long as the head bolts don't snap off too!

 

[thehermit]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

persistance pays! <br />I now have the Tstats off and out and it dosnt look too bad in there. BOTH tstats were busted off and rolling around free in the bubble back! It appears they have been this way for a while! At least the were not stuck closed (but I knew that). Look forward to having it all squared away with the new parts. I will have to put this repair on a 2 or 3 year schedule if the motor continues to last.<br />dutch...I was thinking about the metal poxies (jb weld or something like that) let me know if you get a pic up.<br />hermit

 

[jim dozier]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Maybe you could find a rubber grommet to plug the holes.

 

[mutron77]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

Hey reeldutch,<br />Are you gonna drill those holes out every year?<br />You said you filled them in and painted over them,<br />so how do you the Tstats next year? I was thinking rubber plugs as stated above, or metal covers. After doing mine though, I found it not too bad to just lower the pan. You have to remove the air silencer too but, I figure every couple of years you should take of the silencer and clean it and check your hoses and such, and while your doing this get the stats too

 

[thehermit]

Re: about to start drilling - 115 thermostat

I used JB weld when I got the tstats back in. I dont want to try this now but I am guessing a little heat and a directed blow from the hammer would pop the plugs out.<br />Tip: duct tape the outside of the hole-fill with jb weld from the inside (2 coats with an overlap) - when dry peel ducktape - wala no sanding neccesary just 2 dark colored holes.<br />hermit<br />ps glad its over