Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

[nhblock]

As detailed in this thread, I recently purchased a 14' fiberglass rowboat/runabout. It's currently just an old boat with a motor slapped on the back. However, when I do a restoration this summer I'd like to add some electrical to the boat, so I can safely stay out past dusk and also listen to music.

After doing a bunch of research on the forum, I've attached a schematic I drew up with all the accessories I'd like to add. Here are my questions:
1. Is this how it should be wired? Especially the battery, fuse/switch panel, negative bus.
2. Will the battery drain too quickly? My outboard is manual start with no alternator, so the only charging would be through the solar and the occasional take-home-and-plug-in.

Thanks in advance for any answers, tips, etc.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

You can start by eliminating the solar panel. You need one the size of your boat to actually "charge" the battery.
Six courtesy lights in a 14 foot boat is a little overkill. If they are LED lights that's certainly better but simply unnecessary.
Spotlights on a boat are ok for navigating in other than normal traffic areas but be aware that someone may let you know what they think about it as it blinds oncoming boaters. Besides, it screws up your night vision. You really need to think about this stuff. The stereo is fine provided you do not use a high power amp (also unnecessary).
As for the wiring, what you have seems to be wired properly. You do need a 20 amp breaker or fuse within six inches of the positive post on the battery. Any battery needs to be charged immediately after use.

 

[nhblock]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

Thanks for the input. Is there really no compact solar panel on the market nowadays that can trickle in a decent amount of power?

The courtesy lights are LED (and the navigation lights, and the all-round), so the draw is pretty minimal. There are more than necessary, sure, but I like the lighted footwell look.

Stereo I'm just using the power from the head unit. No amp or anything, and just two 4" speakers. Not trying to win any loudness contests.

I can nix the spot as I'm not really in a "high-traffic" area, but I am in an urban environment (downtown Chicago), so there's plenty of ambient light on the river. I just figured it would be good to have if I find myself way up- or down- river at night and there's no street lighting.

Do you have an idea of what size battery I would need for this type of application? Does it need to be deep cycle?

 

[Star]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

Yes definatly a deep cycle as big as you want to carry because you have to charge it alot! I would use 27 series battery.. You need a charger that has a deepcycle charge rate because a standard charger will shorten the life of the battery. You shouldn't run the static voltage below 12 volts. If you don't spend all day listening to toons you should be ok. A charger in an outboard really doesn't otput more than 6 to 8 amps so you don't even make up for starter draw unless you run a long way. Any battery will cost $100 plus $50+ a ten amp unit is the minamum size. If a electric trolling motor is in the future go for a 29 series about 60#

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

You can start by eliminating the solar panel. You need one the size of your boat to actually "charge" the battery...

There is a lot of truth in that!

... Is there really no compact solar panel on the market nowadays that can trickle in a decent amount of power?

A one Square Yard solar panel will deliver about 10 amps if it is in the desert, at noon, with a clear bue sky, and the panel tracks the Sun.
Under an overcast where you can still make out a shadow; expect 1 amp.
In the shadow of a building or a tree, the output is Nill!

The Sun delivers about 1000 watts per square yard to the Earth. No getting around that.
Solar panels are only 5-10% efficient at best.
3 or 4 square yards of panels at $150-$200 per yard "Might" work for you!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

Yes definatly a deep cycle as big as you want to carry because you have to charge it alot! I would use 27 series battery.. You need a charger that has a deepcycle charge rate because a standard charger will shorten the life of the battery. You shouldn't run the static voltage below 12 volts. If you don't spend all day listening to toons you should be ok. A charger in an outboard really doesn't otput more than 6 to 8 amps so you don't even make up for starter draw unless you run a long way. Any battery will cost $100 plus $50+ a ten amp unit is the minamum size. If a electric trolling motor is in the future go for a 29 series about 60#

way off base here. a 27 series battery for this load is certainly ok but not necessary. this is a 14 foot tiller steered row boat. a 60 pound troller requires 24 volts (two batteries in series). Totally impractical. a group 24/27 size deep cycle is also not $100+. they are readilly available for $70 at most farm stores. I just bought one. a standard battery charger will not shorten the life of a deep cycle battery. This 9.9 outboard has no charging system so the output discussion is of no concern

 

[nhblock]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

So the consensus is I should go for a 24 or 27 series deep cycle? The idea is to have enough juice to do a few hours of cruising/floating without having to lug the battery inside for charging each time I want to go out. All the lights are LED, and there is no amp on the radio.

I have no plans for a trolling motor. Thanks everyone.

 

[Star]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

Well you could be right Silvertip I like overkill. I find it pays in the long run, since he wants to not drag it out every time he goes out!
A four chanel radio with CD can pull down a battery faster than you think, my thought was to plan on 4 hours of operation. The fact that he should operate the battery from 12.7 volts to 12.4 volts at recharge (recomended by interstate techs) he needs the added capasity. Why do they make deep cycle chargers? My 29 series life has been extended to 4 1/2 years by using a deep cycle chargers.
I also doubt that a trolling motor will never be used, I catch alot of fish that way. What brand of battery can you get for $70, it is not a marine battery that can take a pounding!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

Well you could be right Silvertip I like overkill. I find it pays in the long run, since he wants to not drag it out every time he goes out!
A four chanel radio with CD can pull down a battery faster than you think, my thought was to plan on 4 hours of operation. The fact that he should operate the battery from 12.7 volts to 12.4 volts at recharge (recomended by interstate techs) he needs the added capasity. Why do they make deep cycle chargers? My 29 series life has been extended to 4 1/2 years by using a deep cycle chargers.
I also doubt that a trolling motor will never be used, I catch alot of fish that way. What brand of battery can you get for $70, it is not a marine battery that can take a pounding!

Still off base. My deep cycle batteries come from a local Fleet Farm store and my most recent purchase was a group 27 for $69.00 for installation in my RC airplane hauler. My boats are replaced at four to five year intervals. The original troller battery goes with the boat in perfect working order - never had to replace one. And yes, the are marine rv deep cycles. How about posting the make and model of your deep cycle specific charger. A group 24 deep cycle typically has a reserve capacity of 150 minutes at a 23 amp draw spec. Since a basic stereo draws less than 1/4 that value, you are looking at 10 hours of constant operation.

 

[nhblock]

Re: Adding electrical to my rowboat (schematic inside)

I'm also going to have to glass in some channels to run the wires, as there is no floor. Can I use PVC pipe?