Re: Adenoids??
Thats what we do here...help each other! And the "bill" is in the mail now. (kidding with ya)
Go real easy pulling the bolts..little back forth, ON BOTH, 'till they seem loose. Best to use an "Allen" wrench..and a rubber mallet..easy rap, back and forth. Straight force, and cheater bar, will FOR SURE twist it in half. You want to break the corrosion. If one is coming out OK, put it back kinda tight, go to the other.
If it also comes out , your home free.
If not, and one twist off, just drill it out using that hole as a "jig". Only go far enough in to get a good 3/8ths inch into the mating metal. Then pull it off, and use the other bolt for depth guidance. Drill the same depth, plus a touch more (there is plenty of metal "meat" to work with on both)
Standard are 5/16ths NC SS Sockethead bolts. Go up to 3/8ths NC (use a 5/16ths drill). Then get a 3 Tap set of Taps. Use the starter tap, finish with the Plug tap (full threads on that tap). GO EASY! Few threads in, back it out and clean off the tap, and do the same 'till bottomed out.
You break off a tap in there, and your day will go downhill fast.
Go easy. Light touch, and a little Kerosene is a good lube for the Tap on Aluminum.
You will also have to drill out the Zincs to the proper size also. 3/8ths all the way..(Zinc only), and "spot" drill the Zinc with a 9'16ths drill, about 3/8ths-7/16ths in, for the Socket Head. SS Sockethead screws available at any good hardware store.
Good luck (Machinist 21 years, and my 280 sits in "salt"..know of where I speak here..had to do my prop ring a few years back, and the bar this year)
Any problem, post again...Oh yeah, those VP's are pretty well "bullet proof".....BUT... (get a manual NOW..do it right!), check for "milky oil", and replace both the drain screw gasket, and for sure the oil fill gasket..(kinda "chinsy" in my book...don't last long)..and a new ORing on the Dipstick.
Put 2 1/2 quarts straight 30wt in there, then top off at the dipstick hole the rest..holds 2.8 qts...and remember..(the manual thing)..there is a "pump" at the prop shaft inside, that supplies oil to the top end bearings.
Running in "neutral"...will NOT supply that top bearing...stick it in gear.
Again, good luck...hope all goes well here.
PS..might mean a lot if you told us the age of the boat/motor, motor size, last time the exhaust manifolds were changed, raw water cooled or fresh, Saltwater, or fresh..etc.
More involved that ya think... I/O's are high maintenance items.
Also if you pull it out for storage, take the Zinc's off..stick them in a coffee can of water and cover. They will oxidize in air, and become useless..
