Adjusting trailer brakes

travism

Seaman
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Apr 15, 2004
Messages
62
I have recently tried adjusting my trailer brakes for the first time, following the instructions at this link:<br /> http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#adjust_brakes <br /><br />BTW, these are surge drum brakes. My question is about where it says to turn the star nut until you can't rotate the tire by hand. Does that mean that you can't rotate the tire by hand at all, using all your strength, or when the brakes stop the tire as you turn it freely just keeping the tire rotating? It's hard to explain what I'm asking, basically how hard am I trying to rotate the tire by hand before backing off the nut 10 clicks?<br /><br />I have them adjusted based on backing off 10 clicks from when I can't rotate the tire using all my strength, but one tire locks up when in gravel, so I need to back off some more. I want to know I'm using the right procedure when I re-adjust. Thanks.<br />Travis
 

craze1cars

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Dec 26, 2004
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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

I have electric brakes, little experience with surges, so I can't answer your wheel force question direct. Hopefully someone else here can.<br /><br />But my first instinct is to mention that I wouldn't be very concerned about occasionally dragging a tire in gravel, unless of course you do 100% of your driving on gravel roads, then maybe you'd need an adjustment a bit different than many others.
 

travism

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Apr 15, 2004
Messages
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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Thanks for the reply. The only time I'm in gravel is in my storage lot. But I'm sure the owner doesn't want me dragging a tire around his lot. Why do you say it's okay if the tire drags in gravel?<br /><br />Edit: I haven't towed it on a road since this started occurring. You're saying it's possible that the tire may drag on the gravel but actually be adjusted correctly and drive fine on the pavement? Also forgot to mention that it's a dual axle trailer and only one tire is locking up.
 

Silvertip

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28,771
Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Why on earth would you want to drag a tire on dirt, gravel or any other surface -- with a loaded trailer no less. If you can't turn the wheel by hand, it's adjusted way too tight. Back the star wheel off until you can rotate the wheel freely. Then go the other way until you feel the brake shoes just beginning to drag on the drum. Anything more than that you heat up the drums, shoes, and create unnecessary wear and more importantly, create drag that makes the tow vehicle work harder. It also glazes the linings rendering them ineffective.
 

craze1cars

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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Maybe I wasn't clear in understanding what was happening...by all means the tire shouldn't be dragging at all unless the brakes are actually being applied. I interpreted your "one tire locks up when in gravel" comment to mean that it was briefly locking up temporarily under a surge breaking event. However, if it's just dragging around in the gravel while you're towing the trailer forward in the lot you obviously have a problem.<br /><br />I agree totally that the wheel should be turning freely when there is no brake application to prevent heat buildup, etc. as Upinsmoke states.
 

travism

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Apr 15, 2004
Messages
62
Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Sorry my original post wasn't clear. Yes, the one tire locks up all the time, not just when the surge coupler applies the brakes. So they are not adjusted correctly. I know I need to back the adjustment screw off a bit, but need to know how much. If someone can elaborate on the correct adjustment procedure, then I would be much obliged.
 

tommays

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Jul 4, 2004
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6,768
Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

i just replaced my drum brakes this weekend for the third time in 10 years but with saltwater thats not to bad<br /><br />if your brakes are less than new even in freshwater its pretty likely that many of the pivot points are no longer moveing freely <br /><br />the rubber boot on the wheel cylinder does a great job of traping water inside it and makeing the wheel cylinder stick<br /><br />but with a couple of low cost brake tools i have allways been able to remove everything clean it up and use some brake grease and get it like new again<br /><br />you most likely have free backing brakes and they wont adjust correctly if anything is sticking<br /><br /><br />tommays
 

travism

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Apr 15, 2004
Messages
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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Thanks, Upinsmoke. I guess my mind works better in definate terms like turning it x number of clicks, but I'll try it your way.<br /><br />And I've never taken the brakes apart since I bought the boat and trailer used last year, but it might be time that I do that also to see how it all looks inside.<br /><br />Thanks for the replies.
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Going by the number of clicks is far too arbitrary. The proof is that you can't turn the wheel -- right??
 

rwidman

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May 27, 2004
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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

1. You could have a problem with the brakes not releasing fully on one side.<br /><br />2. How I check my brakes: I purchased a non contact infared thermometer ($50.00 from Sears). Drive a while, then check the temperature of the drums or disks. They should be hotter than before you started. This indicates that they are working. All drums or disks should be nearly the same temperature. This indicates that they are working equally. Another check - with the brakes cold, disable the brakes with whatever means of lockout that you have, then drive for a few miles (pick your time and route to avoid trafic and potential emergency situations). Any substantial rise in temperature means the brakes are dragging. There will be a slight increase.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Temperature testing would seem to be rather arbitrary in view. At the start of the test, brake temperature would likely be that of the ambient air (70 - 90 degrees). If one locks out the brake system, drives say 10 miles, and takes a temp reading, what temperature is correct? Heat from the tires and bearings obviously will raise the temperature, but what part of the temperature reading is that. Then using the brakes presents another set of temperatures. Misadjusted brakes (too tight) would present a very high reading. Too loose would present a very low reading. Since there is no "standard" you really don't know whether adjustment is correct. You do however, know they are working, but they may still be too tight or too loose. JMHO.
 

rwidman

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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

I have a tandem axle trailer with brakes on only one axle so I have something to go by. In my experience, the braking axle hubs (and drums) will be only slightly warmer than the non braking axle hubs with the brakes locked out or after many miles of freeway driving without any braking. Ten degrees or so. This is from the slight dragging of the shoes or calipers. After driving in traffic I measure the drums on the braking axle. They are typically fifty to seventy five degrees above ambient temperature. The real value is diagnosing unusual or uneven conditions. For example, if one side is at 170 degrees and the other is at 100 degrees, there is a problem - most likely, the side with the lower temperature needs to be adjusted tighter. I would always start out with the published procedure of adjusting to where the wheel won't turn and then loosening each side a certain number of "clicks". Having someone spin the wheel while you apply the brakes is a good idea after any brake work or major adjustment.<br /><br />Disclaimer: I am in no way a brake mechanic other than what I have been forced to learn by owning a boat and trailer, trailering long distances, and launching in salt water. What I know I have learned from instruction pamphlets, Internet articles, this and other forums, and experience. I feel obligated to pass as much of this knowledge on in thanks for what others have taught me. :)
 

Boatist

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Apr 22, 2002
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4,552
Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Travism<br />When adjusting the drum brakes as your instructions said turn until you can not turn the wheel. You should tighten until very hard to turn all the way around. This mikes sure the brakes are centered in the drum and the pads are tight against the drum.<br />I then reverse direction and turn wheel until the wheel just starts to feel free. This is usually 3 or 4 clicks. Then I turn another 5 to 8 clicks. Brakes may still drag some and this is normal. If your apply brakes from the master cylinder should center the brakes and have very little drag.<br /><br />If the brakes are badly rusted where they slide or the actuator is Jammed inside them need to take apart and clean up. In the past I have used Silcone spray on the sliding surface. When brakes released the springs need to be able to pull the wheel cylinder back in and the brakes back to there stop.
 

rwidman

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Re: Adjusting trailer brakes

Originally posted by SoLittle:<br /> rwidman - I hope you mean that you have brakes on only one axle rather than only one side. <br />
Yes, that's what I posted. <br /><br />Referring to one side, I'm talking about comparing the brake system on one side of the trailer to the system on the other side to find and correct problems. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that.
 
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