Advice from River Rats

hct4all

Seaman
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
67
This is the first time I've ever had an outboard over 9.9. It's really nice to be able to get your boat on plane!! I like to boat on the beautiful(Rock strewn) middle Allegheny River. I have a 1981 50hp merc. Non tilt and trim on a Sea Nymph Fishing machine. In addition to my questions please add any type of advice do you have for a fellow boater.<br /><br />1) Shallow areas - Slow or on plane? On plane there is only about 24" of my boat + the motor in the water<br /><br />2) Are any of those outboard rock gaurds worth the money?<br /><br />3) Would tilt and trim or a jackplate be a wise investment?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Rick
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Advice from River Rats

Hi, Rick.<br /><br />There are several prop/skeg guards that are well worth the money, but they aren't going to help much if you whack a rock at high speed. <br /><br />I put SkegGards on all my engines. They do well at fairly low speeds. I hit a rock at about 25mph on Lake Of The Woods and sustained only a scar on the SkegGard. From the collision I expected to find my skeg and prop trashed.<br /><br />I really like T&T on any engine for a lot of reasons. Never used a jackplate.<br /><br />Good luck. :)
 

phatmanmike

Captain
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
3,869
Re: Advice from River Rats

a wise old man once told me, "a jackplate is never a bad thing, always good"
 

hct4all

Seaman
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
67
Re: Advice from River Rats

Thank you. I will get the gaurd and start saving for the others !!
 

dajohnson53

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
Messages
1,627
Re: Advice from River Rats

I run rivers almost exclusively, mostly shallow. Not for "sport" but because that's what we have. <br /><br />The "only" way to go is with a jet lower unit. My boat, which is not a hard-core shallow draft hull, but pretty decent, draws about 12-15 inches standing still. On step it will go through 6 inches without touching, a little less, touching, but not damaging or getting stuck.<br /><br />New, installed this is a $1500 item, give or take. Used, I think you could find one 1/2 the price and install yourself (easy to do if you're at all familiar with lower units and/or at all mechanically inclined). They really are simple items and probably pretty easy to determine if a used unit is servicable.<br /><br />If I were to invest in ANYTHING to run rivers, I'd do this before anything else including a skegguard or jackplate. You might have to modify your transom for the jet unit or add a manual jackplate or such.<br /><br />Most jet outboards around here are just set to a height w/o a jackplate. I have a hydraulic jackplate and really love it. It isn't critical, but does allow me some better efficiency given different loads in the boat.<br /><br />The typical hull, whether it be open bow/jon boat type or closed bow runabout type is a very shallow deadrise bottom - some are flat, but a very shallow V is better, I believe.<br /><br />The guys who do rivers with prop lower units (very few nowadays, more common 15 - 20 years ago) use/used a a version of a jackplate that literally has a long ratcheted handle and a person can jack the motor up by pushing down on the long lever handle. The typical general way of running is to standing up (generally a stable, flat bottomed boat) with left hand on engine tiller, right hand on jack lever. Jack when necessary.<br /><br />As for on plane vs. slow. THAT'S THE QUESTION. I probably have more discussions (over a beer of course) with my river boat buddies about this. The conventional wisdom is when you get into a shallow spot, gun it, get your draft as shallow as possible and go over the shallow spot. Trouble is, more speed + too shallow water = getting very stuck. On rivers I'm unfamiliar with, I tend to go as slow as possible and still be on step, pick my way through. If I figure out where the best channel is, and really need to go fast to get through, I'll do it then. A lot of it just has to do with your own nature, and how good you are (or think you are) in reading the river. Upstream's always easier than down stream - you can slow down when needed, and /or float back if you run into trouble.<br /><br />Always fun, always an adventure -get yourself a rope comealong.
 

Drowned Rat

Captain
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
3,070
Re: Advice from River Rats

hct4all. You're fist question, slow or on plane. If you're going to be on plane over shallow rocky areas, you had better know that stretch of river like to back of your hand. If you're unfamiliar with it, take it slow. Knowing how to "Read water" will keep you out of a lot of trouble, but it's a tricky language to learn. <br /><br />I run 37 foot pontoon rafts through Grand Canyon with a 30hp Honda on the back. 280 miles long, over 100 rapids 5 of which are 10++, 1 of which is the biggest navigable whitewater in North America. We would not survive without a jack plate. We run with the tilt lock off so when we hit a rock, the motor just pops out of the water, most often with no damage other than to the prop. My experience with outboard jet drives is that they are usefull only as a spare anchor. They don't provide the thust needed in our application and they don't like sand or small gravel very much. <br /><br />Follow D's advise and make yourself a rescue kit that you keep on the boat all the time in case you do get stuck. <br /><br />Good luck and have fun. :)
 

dajohnson53

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
Messages
1,627
Re: Advice from River Rats

Originally posted by Drowned Rat:<br /> ... My experience with outboard jet drives is that they are usefull only as a spare anchor. They don't provide the thust needed in our application and they don't like sand or small gravel very much...
Yea, the people around here who run the deeper rivers stick with props - much more efficient and powerful. But, if you're going 30 to 100 miles on a river that has long stretches of water 3 - 20 inches deep linking the deep channels (we're talking about streams here, not the Colorado), the jet is essential, and you just deal with the drawbacks.
 

River - Runner

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
343
Re: Advice from River Rats

I run a lot of shallow water on the upper Mississippi river and I do not use protective add-ons on my motor. I feel it would restrict performance. What you need to do is learn the river and your path to travel. The last time I hit anything was when I went over a submerged sand bar years ago in the fog and I knew it was there, so don't go out in the fog! Up here the river rises and falls so that's to be aware of and we have submerged wood, stumps, rocks, rock wing dams, you name it we've got it.<br /><br />I have 2 depth finders (flashers) - front and rear, and a push pole. I trim the motor up and go slow or use my electric trolling motors (have 2, front and rear) or just float with oars and go all over, it takes a long time, even years plus the river bottom changes but you have to do it. Learning 40 years now and never stop learning and my running distance keeps getting larger. When you know your path you can do whatever the performance of the boat limits you to do and that's when it gets fun! Learning the river puts you in a different league and that is what makes boating so special to me. The longer you work at it the better you get.
 

hct4all

Seaman
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
67
Re: Advice from River Rats

Everyone thanks for you advice. I am also going to start keeping a log on the river stages and the conditions at that stage. Does anyone else do this? How reliable are the posted river stages?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Rick
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: Advice from River Rats

Look up the National Weather Service out of Pittsburg hct. They got a real good hydrological part of their site that is real good for keeping tabs on the rivers. I live on the Ohio and watch it real close during high water conditions. Most of the time, they are right on the money. Shoot....I'm probably just an hours drive from where you live.
 
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