Advice on conroy/glaston bowrider transom

[Handsome Transom]

I need advice on how I can fix the transom on my 86 Conroy bowrider. I bought the boat with a nice 90hp engine and trailer for $700, thinking that I would only have to replace the floor in the back. Once I got to the transom I noticed that the bottom had some rott. So I started cutting it out with plans to patch in new plywood and then cover w/ another piece of plywood and fiberglass over. I think I’ve removed too much of the plywood though because the top corner (behind the splash pan) is rotten.

The question is whether or not I should repair the transom or replace it entirely and is there anyway I can replace the transom w/o removing the entire cap? Pics are in link below (my ideabook)

Any input would be very helpful. This is my first boat and I had no experience with boats prior buying this boat. I have been doing a lot of research though.

 

[Handsome Transom]

Please let me know if you can’t view the pics.

 

[sphelps]

I can see the picks fine .. Welcome aboard !
‘Looks like the stringers are gone also . So a full gut job is probably needed unfortunately ...
You can get to the transom without removing the cap by cutting the sides of the gunnels just in front of the splashwell/jumpseats .. .. But if were me I would take the whole cap off ..

 

[Woodonglass]

Based on your pics you could prolly get the transom removed, sanded and replaced without removing the cap. It WILL be more work but it looks to be doable!!! Sam is correct in that you need to do EVERYTHING! Stringers, Transom and Deck.
Check the 2nd link in my signature below for some good info on what you're about to undertake.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome to the restoration club

 

[Handsome Transom]

Ok I’ll look at the stringers tomorrow. It looked like they where only rotten in one spot but I guess not.

I think I would like to use Seacast on the transom. Does anyone how I would create an inner skin and where I should cut on the top of the transom?

 

[sphelps]

Kind of looks to me the transom was either replaced or cut partially out maybe ?
Making a skin is not hard . Just form up what shape you want . Cover the form with clear packing tape .. Then lay up a couple layers of 1708 . Let cure then pop it off the mold ..
Only thing is the splash well rolls up the transom which may make it a bit more difficult unless you pour the sea cast to that ...
And I would call sea cast to insure that is a suitable application ..
Seems strange there is no glass on the inside of the transom now ..

 

[Handsome Transom]

That’s how the transom was built on these boats.

The stringers are very solid all around, even at the section that doesn’t have fiberglass on the sides. I’m thinking I might be able to just let any moisture dry out and leave them as is. Maybe I’ll take a small drill to a couple areas to double check.

So for the transom, I’ll just make a mold and cover it in packing tape up to where the splash well is. Then with the mold in place I’ll fiberglass the inside up to the splash well then remove mold and fill with seacast. So my question is, will the packing tape peel off of the inner skin?

 

[Handsome Transom]

Also, do I have to use 1708 fiberglass? I have regular 6oz fiberglass I was planning on using

 

[Handsome Transom]

I posted 2 pics in my idea book showing in red line where it sounds like I should cut. It’s pretty much just the flat section on the top of the transom, only enough to pull out the old core. Let me know if that’s the wrong way.

 

[sphelps]

Yes if using the packing tape with the poly resin you can pull the skin free of the mold ... Clean any wax residue off with some acetone .. the mold should be made outside of the boat on a piece of Masonite or plywood .. just make sure you put tape on anything you don’t want the poly to stick to ..once you pull the new cured skin off the mold you may need to trim a little hear and there to get it to fit how you want .. Then tab it in place .. just don’t forget the spacers for the sea cast .. .
Couldnt see the red line pics you were talking about .
Cant you take the pics and paste them in your post so we don’t have scroll through all of the pics ..
It,s a bit annoying to have to search everywhere and try and guess what your wanting us to look at ..
That would make it easier for us to help ...

 

[Scott Danforth]

Also, do I have to use 1708 fiberglass? I have regular 6oz fiberglass I was planning on using

one layer of 1708 is stonger than 4 layers of 6 oz unless your bagging it.

 

[sphelps]

You mean like 6oz woven or you talking csm ?

 

[Woodonglass]

What resin will you be using? Poly or EEEEEEpoxy??

 

[Handsome Transom]

Sorry about the photos, I don't have a computer at the moment which makes it hard to upload photos.

I am kinda at a stand still right now as I am trying to decide what to do about the stringers.

I have decided that I will be using seacast for the transom. It make sense for the way that my transom is designed with the splash guard bonded to the top of the transom. The people from seacast gave me a lot of info on how to do it.

As for the stringers... they really seem strong. I haven't drilled holes to check out the insides. The sections of the stringers that are not covering in fiberglass are very solid but are moist as you can see in the photo. Is it possible I can just leave the stringers as is and still get +7 years out of the boat without it cracking (or whatever happens when the they fail)??

 

[Handsome Transom]

Also, I plan on buying the 17oz baxial fiberglass (with matte on outside) and polyester resin from the seacast website. I have returned the epoxy and fiberglass that I bought at the marina ($250 worth!!).

 

[Woodonglass]

Wet stringers will continue to rot even IF they dry. 7 years would be a big gamble that you'd probably lose. The stringers are the backbone of your hull if they fail, you hull WILL flex and that's NOT Good. I'd replace them.