Aeroquip Oil Drain

HVAC Cruiser

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I just came across this while ordering parts for my 383 build and figured I would share :) . Aeroquip came out with a quick connect fitting that I think is a real easy & cool way to change the engine oil in the boat instead of shoving a tube down the dipstick.

AeroquipOilDrain.jpg


I think I am going to order a set for my engine any thought on good,bad, indifferent?
 

Don S

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

It looks to be aluminum, and if you boat in salt water and actually get water in your bilge, I could see that becoming corroded and either leak or not go together properly.
Most boats I work on, you can barely reach the bottom of the pan. I usually install something like this
http://www.iboats.com/Jabsco-Perman...50480194--**********.884457191--view_id.38803 Oil drain hose.
Then it's always up where you can reach it. Has brass fittings on the end, so nothing to corrode.

38803.gif
 

HVAC Cruiser

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Hi Don,
I like your fitting setup better :) , didn't think about the aluminum corroding. Sure Glad I posted before I purchased it, just added your setup to my grocery list

Thanks
 

Bondo

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Ayuh,... I built my own after I found the 1/2"-20 fitting for the oil pan...

The brass Fitting, then a long hose, then I adapted the end to fit my drillpump...

Just letting gravity drain it, even with hot oil takes ForEver...
The pump speeds it up,+ I can do it at the dock, as well as on the trailer...
 

HVAC Cruiser

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Ayuh,... I built my own after I found the 1/2"-20 fitting for the oil pan...

The brass Fitting, then a long hose, then I adapted the end to fit my drillpump...

Just letting gravity drain it, even with hot oil takes ForEver...
The pump speeds it up,+ I can do it at the dock, as well as on the trailer...


I thought about making my own, I hate the hose through the dipstick bit, & not crazy over the banjo bolt setups. I even thought maybe just welding a fitting on the oil pan to hook a hose to seeing I have the engine torn down. I still have a load of SS braided line and fittings from back in my racing days I could use and set it up a remote for my pony pump.
 

achris

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Merc came up with that a few years ago now... I gotta hose that just lays down next to the battery and when I need to drop the engine oil, I just feed it though the bung (bilge drain hole) open the end and let it all hang out....

If you want to fit a pump to the top end and draw it up, go right ahead... but gravity is the ultimate earth-friendly way to get all that nasty oil out of the engine ready to drop down the drain. ;)

Chris..........
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Most boats I work on, you can barely reach the bottom of the pan. I usually install something like this
http://www.iboats.com/Jabsco-Perman...50480194--**********.884457191--view_id.38803 Oil drain hose.
Then it's always up where you can reach it. Has brass fittings on the end, so nothing to corrode.

38803.gif


This is exactly how I did mine.

I use a Moeller vac pump that I place next to the engine and after about 20 pumps or so it sucks out the oil though the hose. Since it pulls it from the bottom of the pan, it gets it all hot OR cold.
2563330c_1.gif
You can buy it right here on iBoats too btw,

Cold just takes a tad longer, but I don't notice since it takes me longer to change the filter than it does for the oil to "vac" out.

Having the hose clamped up near the left riser also eliminates the need to crawl back there, stand on my head and reach in there to cram it into the "Bung?" :eek: hole!! ;)


Cheers,


Rick
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

No reason why it wouldn't work...

But you still need a cap on the hose to prevent residual oil in the hose from fouling your bilge.

If you have a cap on the hose, why would you need a "quick-drain"?

If you support and secure the hose up in the engine compartment as the above picture depicts you really don't even need to worry about the cap leaking a little (unless you have crankcase pressure.....which you won't)

With the hose up where you don't have to "crawl" for it, you won't have to reach into a dirty, oily bilge to grab a dirty oily hose either!
 

HVAC Cruiser

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

I like the fumoto valve but I would be leery to use it without an additional plug on the end of the hose, 1 for excess oil dripping into the bilge and 2 fear of valve failure.

I really like the thought of just hanging the hose out the bung although I don't remember how tight it is under there to snake it out. Here is what I am thinking, I am going to weld a flare fitting to the oil pan and run a piece of aeroquip line off of it I will make it long enough to run out the drain and use a male flair plug on the other end to seal it. This will give me the option of running it out and letting gravity do its job, or hooking up my pony pump that I already have set up with flare fittings that I use for #2 oil. That pump can pump the pan dry in under 1 min.

Ok even though its a different topic, I always coat the inside of my blocks with glyptal and use eastwood ceramic engine paint http://www.eastwood.com/underhood-engine/engine-paints.html

This paint is tough as nails by far the best I have ever used. Is there any reason I shouldn't use it for the boat, this is my 1st boat engine build.
 

JustJason

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

I have the mityvac version of the moeller pump, and in it takes all of 10 or 12 pump to evacuate the whole pan. There is no tube to stick down the dipstick tube, it slides right over it. Clean, neat, easy to pour the old oil out. + doesn't make 1 bit of mess in a customers boat and I can change the oil with the boat in the water.
 

HVAC Cruiser

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Re: Aeroquip Oil Drain

Um, you coat the INSIDE of the engine with glyptal and paint?

The inside of the engine gets glyptal the outside gets paint. The glyptal creates a super slick surface which prevents any contaminants from hanging in the block and aids oil transfer back to the pan. After I get my blocks back from the machine shop I chase all threads, get in there with my flexible shaft and deburr the inside of the block casting marks web, etc wash her again then coat the inside with glyptal. I have found that the oil even stays cleaner, it acts like a barrier between the cast iron.
 
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