Until it's in alignment. Not trying to be an ice hole, but there is know way of knowing how much.<br />BUT !!!!! If the front mounts are tight, it may not be the adjustment being out so much as a motor mount went bad. If the alignment has been good all along and suddenly is bad, look at the rear mounts. I have found them soft from oil and grease, delaminated, and parts between the bellhousing and transom shild missing.<br />I have also pulled engines in order to get the front mounts off to clean the rust off so they would be adjustable again. Sometimes if they are bad enough they get replaced. <br />With the alignment off as much as it is, it won't take long to destroy your 3 to $400 coupler and you will have to pull the engine anyway.
I'm just Guessing here,.. But,...<br />If these bolts are Loose,+ You're wanting to Just Tighten them,.............<br />You've got Much Bigger Problems..............<br /><br />Transom Bolts Don't just Loosen by themselfs............<br />Your transom is Rotten,+ Collapsing...... <br /><br />That's No Doubt the root Problem with your Alignment...................Sorry....
<br /> I am with the rest. to access the lower transom bolts usually requires engine and exhaust pipe removal. why do you think they need tightening? I have had mounts so rusty that I have to support the front of the motor(with the drive off) and remove the block to bracket bolts and the stringer lag screws and cut them off with a torch. grease the end of your tool. insert it as far as it will go without undue force. pull it out without rotating the tool. look at the spline pattern in the grease. a heavy pattern on the top and none on the bottom will indicate the engine is to high in the front. you have to visualize a pipe sliding in a pipe. if the smaller pipe is held level and the large pipe is level then they fit. tip the large pipe up or down and it wont. if the rear mounts are bad its replacment time.
Does it help to grind the end to a point first?<br />
Always good advice...
